What Brand of Oil is in your BRZ/FRS?

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by wdninja

Yes, the automotive oil is beef tallow based. They have many other products that are also made from plant sources.

Well, if you decide to go all vegan there's Renewable Lubricants.

Not API certified, but that didn't seem to work for Green Earth Technologies since they've been teetering on the verge of going out of business. I could never understand GET's business model; pay crazy fees to have your oil API certified, and then give it away to thousands of people after the mail-in rebate.

-Dennis

[wdninja]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Well, if you decide to go all vegan there's Renewable Lubricants.

Not API certified, but that didn't seem to work for Green Earth Technologies since they've been teetering on the verge of going out of business. I could never understand GET's business model; pay crazy fees to have your oil API certified, and then give it away to thousands of people after the mail-in rebate.

-Dennis

Thanks Dennis, I'm always looking for more green options when it comes to normal maintenance/cleaning. Have you used the Renewable Lubricants engine oil before?

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by wdninja

Thanks Dennis, I'm always looking for more green options when it comes to normal maintenance/cleaning. Have you used the Renewable Lubricants engine oil before?

No. I've been going back and forth about trying it. I've been following it for several years on bobistheoilguy. Their 5W-40 was originally formulated for an RS4 that was destroying Audi spec oils. The 0W-30 was formulated for a doctor that runs it in his Lambo and Bentley.

My Forester will be getting Motul 300V next since it's free from a Subaru dealer with my Subie bucks.

-Dennis

[JoeBoxer]

I have Motul 8100 right now, i have the 300v with ester core sitting here waiting for the next one.

[BRZnut]

While on the subject of oil...why do I keep reading that the boxer engines "don't like" mobil-1???

To be honest, I don't think it should make any difference what oil you use as long as its synthetic and the correct weight.

Any hard evidence to prove otherwise??

[ravenblackfrs]

Some of these guys are nut cases. 0-20w oil is 0-20w oil... now depending on quality will depend on how quick the oil breaks down... amongst other things, but a better quality oil is the only thing I can think of with what some of these guys are talking about... and only a UOA with different oils under same driving conditions will yield the proper results. Change your oil every 3mo or 3000 miles is what they used to teach, and thats what I'm sticking with... synthetic or not... 3mo3000mi is what works for me.

[BoostedWrbBrz]

castrol edge 0W-20 with a bottle of synthetic lucas

[ravenblackfrs]

Originally Posted by SlvrFrs

castrol edge 0W-20 with a bottle of synthetic lucas

That is EXACTLY what I do!

[BoostedWrbBrz]

Originally Posted by ravenblackfrs

That is EXACTLY what I do!

small world..haha. Dont wana run a 0w-30 so i figure the lucas will thicken it up a bit

[ravenblackfrs]

Originally Posted by SlvrFrs

small world..haha. Dont wana run a 0w-30 so i figure the lucas will thicken it up a bit

Bro, I swear by that Lucas stuff! I use it in all my cars. I have a Toyota Matrix XRS as my work car. I use 5-20w Castrol Edge and Lucas synthetic as well! I can hear a difference when I don't put it in... has a little chatter... so I make sure I use it ALL THE TIME!

[BoostedWrbBrz]

Originally Posted by ravenblackfrs

Bro, I swear by that Lucas stuff! I use it in all my cars. I have a Toyota Matrix XRS as my work car. I use 5-20w Castrol Edge and Lucas synthetic as well! I can hear a difference when I don't put it in... has a little chatter... so I make sure I use it ALL THE TIME!

do you use the synthetic lucas or the thick ass stuff?

[ravenblackfrs]

The Synthetic lucas. The conventional style is like pouring honey out of a glass at 32.1 degrees F. LOL.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by BRZnut

While on the subject of oil...why do I keep reading that the boxer engines "don't like" mobil-1???

This comes from knuckleheads that modify their WRX's and think they have to continue running Resource Conserving 5W-30, when something like Mobil1 0W-40 is an excellent oil for a WRX.

Skip the Lucas additive. It's basically goop with no beneficial additives.

-Dennis

[gmookher]

Originally Posted by ravenblackfrs

Bro, I swear by that Lucas stuff! I use it in all my cars. I have a Toyota Matrix XRS as my work car. I use 5-20w Castrol Edge and Lucas synthetic as well! I can hear a difference when I don't put it in... has a little chatter... so I make sure I use it ALL THE TIME!

Here's is my 2 cents, revisiting this thread as I was asked to by a member to comment here:

Sorry, and no offense, but the Castrol edge is at the very bottom of my list that why you 'need' the lucas, which I will pass on as well in this car, but I use it in a low compression pushrod motor like my truck-the lucas is good for older motors loosing compression, its thick stuff,and the Edge is a no go in my book, its got a VI of 166.

I also dont see the VI on the Pennzoil as worth buying in the 180s, but its a great oil if you get the top pennzoil product, is that platinum or ultra, I forget, and dont really care.

If I am gonna go that low in oil quality, I am on the idemitsu, its cheaper than motul or eneos, and far better than anything at walmart-none of that belongs in my 12.6:1 motor that is getting FI. even in a NA motor, nothing can hurt from using a top notch oil.

All oils are not equal. Thats like saying store brand soda, c&c, coke and pepsi all taste the same, they do not. Cole is the real thing, the one that ste MJ's hair on fire, the one they all imitate.

For motul, the eco lite 8100 is sweet. Good stuff.

Sustina is in my motor this very minute, which is on a dyno now.SUSTINA W BASE base oil has an ultra-high viscosity index (229 in 0W-20), try and top that. No its not cheap.

Redlines base stocks are no match for motul or eneos, no boron, as weak as AMSoil if you ask me. Sorry again, not an AMS fan. Please dont hate, k?

I dont think it is about my opinion, or yours, while you can use whatever cocktail you want,whatever oil, and flo rates, the engine was tested an built at the gunma plant on Subaru oil, what you fill it with there after is on you. I like the SM but am betting it comes with subarus' new SN that I dislike, but its not bad oil at all. Its idemitsu SN. Not a repeat in my garage, but for inexpensive back up oil, it okay to keep one sitting around.

I buy mine here since the nearest dealer is 45 minutes away, good to keep at the house thanks to the UPS guy when I am not planning a trip to PHX pr FLG in the near future, as was proved while I was testing an oil cooler and a unclamped line blew off, good to have extra sitting around. I was out of the subaru SM, which is my DD oil. I setup up to motul 8100 and sustina for track use since they are banging formulations with stellar VI. I am not here to debate why or whether VI matters, so not trying to start a debate. As I said, I'm chiming since a member asked me to share my thoughts.


what I like or what you use and like, really doesnt matter- this is chemisty, its about VI, and flow rates, and wear packs and base stocks, not who likes what football team-this isnt a fan sport guys.

I'm not able to subscribe to the using thicker oil is better camp. you get more wear using the wrong oil. fact, and have yet to be convinced by any data otherwise. what joey does at the track is niether here or there. No offense if your name is Joey!

these arent yesterdays motors or dino oils from the 70s that break down with heat. you do more injustice running too thick a synthetic oil, the right oil i sthe right one. simple, track, dyno, whatever, use the best oil you can afford, that is my advice. most good oils run $8 to $11 bucks usually, unless you find a deal, but I havent found motul or sustina for less.

You should know that. use a good oil, and change it out between 5k and 7500 depending on usage, and you will be well within the oils performance limits, most oils can go further yet.

there is a reason good oils like motuls, sustina, and dealer oil, costs what it does, you get what you pay for when buying oil and if youre able to select group IV technology, blends that have the best packs will get you the most power, best mileage and least wear.

If you want to better understand the test process for Oil spec tests, see here from API