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Old 12-11-2012, 01:22 PM   #29
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Get some oem camber bolts for the front you need some negative camber up there. Rear is a judgement call I'd probably get some spc lower control arms to bring it back down to -1.8 or so.

I have the oem bolts on order. Once i get those in, think i should take it back to the dealer for adjustment? Or just tweak myself?

I was also thinking of swapping this all out for new coilovers, so thinking i will hold off on the rear arms. Hate to spend that money and then just switch it out in a few months. Probably be selling these eibach springs shortly. Thimk i am just better off with adjustable coilovers.
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:26 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by gdrider77 View Post
I have the oem bolts on order. Once i get those in, think i should take it back to the dealer for adjustment? Or just tweak myself?

I was also thinking of swapping this all out for new coilovers, so thinking i will hold off on the rear arms. Hate to spend that money and then just switch it out in a few months. Probably be selling these eibach springs shortly. Thimk i am just better off with adjustable coilovers.
The downfall of springs, most people do end up switching eventually, i got something that would last me 6-12 months while waiting on the coilovers i want to come out.

You don't have to go back to the dealer, you can if they won't charge you again but a tire shop with a decent alignment rack can do it too.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:26 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdrider77 View Post
I have the oem bolts on order. Once i get those in, think i should take it back to the dealer for adjustment? Or just tweak myself?

I was also thinking of swapping this all out for new coilovers, so thinking i will hold off on the rear arms. Hate to spend that money and then just switch it out in a few months. Probably be selling these eibach springs shortly. Thimk i am just better off with adjustable coilovers.
You'll still want the rear arms if you get coilovers.

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Old 12-30-2012, 02:58 AM   #32
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The rear camber for these (or any cars) should take the tire, spring rate (or effective wheel rate) as from the front and rear into consideration.

With sport springs, I set most people up with front ofset strut mounts (the whiteline, etc) and the whiteline camber bolts.
Most people who want a sporty alignment will end up with between 1.2-to-1.8 rear negative camber.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:09 PM   #33
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I was able to get almost even rear camber on KWs at -2.0 L and -2.1 R. I don't have any rear adjustment either, it just happened that way.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:10 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdrider77 View Post
I have the oem bolts on order. Once i get those in, think i should take it back to the dealer for adjustment? Or just tweak myself?

I was also thinking of swapping this all out for new coilovers, so thinking i will hold off on the rear arms. Hate to spend that money and then just switch it out in a few months. Probably be selling these eibach springs shortly. Thimk i am just better off with adjustable coilovers.
I made that mistake on my last car. bought springs then wound up with a nice set of coils about 6 months later. So this time I just went straight to coils!
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:18 PM   #35
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The way the geometry works on the FT86, the camber when lowering is important, but rear toe is super important as well.
I have been selling quite a few GT-Spec toe arms (I like their construction) to get rear toe dialed.

Alignment is so important, we had adjustable arms on our car before we change the springs and shocks at all! I think many people would be surprised to see how fast you can go with the stock suspension: the take away is that alignment is what makes everything work.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:04 AM   #36
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The way the geometry works on the FT86, the camber when lowering is important, but rear toe is super important as well.
I have been selling quite a few GT-Spec toe arms (I like their construction) to get rear toe dialed.
Does this mean that rear toe is not adjustable from the factory? I always thought it was.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:46 AM   #37
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:17 AM   #38
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This thread is scaring me...I've been on the edge of buying BC Racing Coilovers w/ the extreme drop kit for a long time, I have the money, something's just been holding me back.

I want to get rid of that hideous wheel gap, but doing that is going to cause me to have some whacky ass camber that I can't fix without dropping $500 to be able to adjust the read camber, am I right?
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:03 AM   #39
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How much does changing the length of the lower rear control arms effect track width? Is track width effected more or less with the adjustable bushings vs. the lower control arms? I'm more worried about doing this right, but I don't know if one way is really better then the other.

I like those SPC control arms, they're so simple and the price is down right cheap for what they are.

Decisions decisions.
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:49 PM   #40
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Will these be necessary / enough to correct the front and rear camber while on KW v3s

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA326

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA416
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:49 PM   #41
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Will these be necessary / enough to correct the front and rear camber while on KW v3s

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA326

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA416
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:51 PM   #42
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who has LCAs in stock for a good deal?
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