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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
| View Poll Results: Coilovers? | |||
| KW Varient 3 |
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160 | 47.20% |
| BC (what varient should I get?) |
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48 | 14.16% |
| HKS Hipermax IV GT |
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21 | 6.19% |
| Cusco (what varient should I get?) |
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15 | 4.42% |
| KSport Kontrol Pro/D2Racing RS |
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10 | 2.95% |
| Megan |
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12 | 3.54% |
| Tein (what varient should I get?) |
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54 | 15.93% |
| Tanabe Sustec Pro |
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1 | 0.29% |
| Stance |
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18 | 5.31% |
| Voters: 339. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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#85 | |
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#86 | |
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I like kw but honestly feel the v1-3 are more of a street setup ots. The Clubsports are much better. They are the best street one in this list which was my point to whoever I replied to initially.
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-Dave
Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#87 | |
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Senior Member
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I guess if a rigid suspension is too soft for you then I dont know what solution would be available. Springs are easy to replace so finding a perfect balance with KWs should be pretty simple. I guess that from my perspective I am biased since I own KW, but when I bought mine there wasnt much of a choice if you wanted a decent setup. My other thing is when you say track are you talking actual race tracks or AutoX, because in my experience AutoX requires a stiffer suspension than actual race tracks due to lower speeds, tighter turns and typically more even surface. When you say track I think of Infineon or Laguna Seca and when tuning suspension for tracks like those you dont want your suspension too stiff because the car can be upset easier in turns at speed...so maybe there needs to be a little clarification on that
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Supermassive For This Useful Post: | Delacruzmd (04-24-2013) |
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#88 | |
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#89 | |
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I agree that there aren't any high end track setups yet, although you can make anything work if you want to run high end setups. Custom control arms to fit them aren't that difficult if you are willing to go that far. I have not driven V3s on a FRS/BRZ, I have driven them on many other vehicles so I don't suspect their normal MO has changed for this chassis specifically. They are one of my favorite setups for a car that sees street use, which was my point in the reply that started this OT tangent. I try to get my dampers valved for the rates I'm running, then get them adjusted/setup for those rates and then fine tune them based on vehicle behavior. I'm not a believer in the "turn to full stiff" method as it prevents the suspension from working as designed (unless of course your rates are high enough to require that, but then you should revalve anyways) - you are preventing the springs from doing their job. That probably works fine on a smooth track, on Sebring it results in a loss of traction in multiple turns and slower lap times. :shrug: I used to run stiffer rates and damper settings on Sebring club course compared to full because you avoided turns 1 and 17 with Club course, the same setup on full was unpredictable and slower than softer settings. Penske.. :love: Oh and I was talking about track use, not autocross. IMO the setups are very different, you can use the same setup for both but it's not optimal if you are chasing tenths IMO.
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#90 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Stiffer springs doesn't mean the car is easier to upset. The car is easier to upset because the damping is likely not matched to those stiffer springs. Suspension is all about finding the proper balance to maximize tire contact with the ground, no matter what the surface. Unbalancing the system by changing the spring or shock, or even shock settings on adjustable ones, will result in less grip. While ride is subjective, grip is not. You can have a car that rides well with no grip (think Lexus LS), and a car that grips well with terrible ride (go kart). Our goal here, is to maximize grip, but still maintain an acceptable ride. We also set the track record for any FRS/BRZ that isn't turbocharged/supercharged in the process, with 225 street tires on the car. For those that don't know, Buttonwillow is a/the track that is used for virtually all major time attack events (Super Lap Battle, Global Time Attack, Redline Time Attack, NASA TT, etc.) We'll keep you guys posted as product development continues. |
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#91 |
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Regional Moderator
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Back to topic please, I need opinions on what coilover set up would be best for street use. Not using it on the track at all. Never going to track it, so I'm only interested in a set of coilovers that won't harshen the ride much. I want a "flush" look with no tire rub. Something of quality, not cheap shiz.. haha Might keep it on a set of 17's or might move it up to 18's not sure. Nothing hitting the $3k price range. I can do many more things with that type of money.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to VADER For This Useful Post: | RRnold (12-10-2012) |
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#92 | |
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- andrew |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: | Snoopyalien24 (12-10-2012) |
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#93 |
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Dd adds to kw's advantage. I have a 5 year old set that I did a clean, new oil and new seals. Dynoed within 3% added new springs and they now not only performe as when new, the look like new too.
Think of V3's as a street suspension that doesn't embaress you at the track. And club sports as a track day suspension that doesn't beat you to death on the street. Robi Last edited by robispec; 12-09-2012 at 10:31 PM. |
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#94 | |
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#95 |
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Compensating a heavy car with horsepower is like giving an alcoholic cocaine to sober him up...
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#96 |
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Based on my experience with several different coilover brnads over the years on various cars (KW, AST, Koni/GC, cheap ebay crap) I'd echo the recommendations of the KWs for an ideal high quality street coilover that won't break the bank. The V2's I had a few years back were great on the street.
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17x7 Kosei K1-TS w/ 215/45-17 Dunlop Star Specs
Nameless Track Pipe - Strano front sway bar |
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#97 |
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You're going to be at the maximum drop a KW V3 can offer. They're hard to beat for the price though. Keep the damping settings lower for a smoother ride, but handling will be a bit sloppy. You can always change the settings when you're going for a spirited drive
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#98 |
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Mr. Sarcasm
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Going WAAY off here, but, anyone prefer lowering spings over coilovers, especially since some might never track it?
Opinions? Advice?
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