Replacement Front Rotors

[Texas BRZ]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

IMHO Cryo is effective but the benefit does not match the cost. Simply running the 120 series Centric Premium rotors will be more than sufficient with a proper pad and proper fluid.

Do you have a couple hours to burn? I have a good thread that I compiled from my findings regarding racing pads and my experience with Centric Premiums (which are only $32/corner for my CRX!

Here: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3050206

Originally Posted by diirk

This was where I was buying parts for previous Suby's. Well known on NASIOC.

http://www.knsbrakes.com/carSeriesDe...Single%20Rotor

They have front and rear rotors for the BRZ or complete brake packages.

Originally Posted by Rejor11

Stainless steel lines may provide a better feel, but it's more to prevent the lines from swelling due to heat. The rubber lines that come on the car will swell over time and may eventually crack, although that will take some time. I've heard stories of peoples' rubber lines leaking fluid eventually.

Since you're going to the track fairly often, you should grab the stainless steel lines. If you were only doing autocross, then I probably wouldn't even bother with stainless steel lines, since the brakes won't usually start to bake in autocross.

Originally Posted by Aznsky

I used centric premium blanks on my 350Z, got at least 5-6 events before switching to Brembos (which I then purchased crentric premium blanks again). Probably could have gotten a few more events as well.

You can usually find them from rockauto.com and you can usually search online for a 5% coupon as well.

Cheap too as they were about 40 a piece if memory serves me correctly.

Thank you all for the additional information and help guys... I went ahead and took all the beneficial advice and thought it over... I decided to go ahead and place my order for a pair of Centric Premium front rotors from the company (link) that diirk provided... I decided not to opt for the cyro treated option since I wanted to try the basic option first to see if I would be happy with them as they come. Price was $48.30 + shipping per front rotor.

Not that it may matter much, but I'll post pictures of the new rotors once I recieve the shipment. I may not install them yet since I feel the OEM rotors still have a bit more life left in them.

I may go ahead and order the SS brake lines during the next time I change for fresh brake fluid after some more events...

Thanks again everyone for the superb help... I'm very open to further input and advice.

[Racecomp Engineering]

I'm also a big fan of the Centric premium blanks. Cheap but quality rotors...replace as needed.

I will say the DBA 4000s do last a good while and just seem to be able to take a good amount of heat in my experience on previous Subarus. Not sure if it's worth the extra cost at this point for the BRZ/FRS but it's a quality rotor at a somewhat realistic price.

OEM sized 2 pc. rotors IMO are not worth it for this car...get a BBK at that point.

With Star-specs you'll be OKAY with the stock calipers and stock sized rotors but it's worth thinking about a quality BBK. Add some brake ducts to make life easier and extend the life of components.

With r-comps you'll want a BBK. Yes you can get through a track day just fine with good pads and fluid but you'll be going through components quickly.

- Andrew

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by Texas FR-S

Hello everyone,

I don't need to upgrade / replace my front rotors just yet, but I can tell that I'm getting to that point soon enough...

I prefer not spend the big bucks for a BBK, and I just want to keep my eyes open for a set of front rotors that work very well (and have a long life) with our particular vehicle, which are reasonably priced. It would be great to know of an option that has been tried and proven by someone's own experience...

Sorry if this type of thread has already been developed in the recent past... If that's the case, please feel free to direct me to the specific link(s).

Just in case anyone's wondering, I'm on my second set of stock pads upfront, and I have Ferodo DS2500 pads on stand-by in my garage.

If I'm not mistaken, I've completed 5 two-day DE events with my FR-S (some rainy days), and I'm still on the OEM Michelin Primacy tires.

Thank you in advance for any knowledge and pointers you may be able to share with me.

Texas FR-S

Replace your rotors as you go. The rotors are heavier than some heavier and higher horsepower cars and the brake pads are significantly larger than its competition. This means that the rotors have a significant amount of heat capacity. The fin density isn't so bad as well. Your current brake pad inventory (stock & DS2500) is not going to be sufficient once you decide to jump on some EHP street tires. Upgrade fluid as well as you will boil that...

If you feel even very high end track pads (not crossover pads) are starting to fade despite even jumping up in brake fluid temp ceiling (RBF660, etc.), fabricate some dedicated ducting to the center of the rotor to promote extra cooling. This should also preserve your brake pads and wheel bearings a little longer.

So to answer your question, just pick up some brake rotors when they're close to cracking, which is probably not going to happen for a long long time unless you're putting some serious temperature gradients into that rotor. I don't think it will happen with your brake pad and tire setup right now. However, that doesn't mean you should ignore the condition of your brakes. Always check the condition of those rotors every session and before and after every track day. Happy driving and hope this helps.

[rice_classic]

Heat reflective tape. Use heat reflective tape around your lower, upper and tie-rod ball joint boots. When things get really hot from the brakes (even with the OEM shield in place), having heat reflective tape will help preserve the boots and the joint.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Heat reflective tape. Use heat reflective tape around your lower, upper and tie-rod ball joint boots. When things get really hot from the brakes (even with the OEM shield in place), having heat reflective tape will help preserve the boots and the joint.

This is pretty necessary for what we do...that is if we don't want to spend extra on replacing these boots and joitns often.

[diirk]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Heat reflective tape. Use heat reflective tape around your lower, upper and tie-rod ball joint boots. When things get really hot from the brakes (even with the OEM shield in place), having heat reflective tape will help preserve the boots and the joint.

Good idea. Any recommendations or links.

[LDadrenaline]

Finally ran upgraded pads last weekend at Sebring on my car.

I went with 06 wrx front brakes on my car and they came with some used powerslot slotted rotors that were still within tolerance. Had the calipers ceramic coated with a thermal extractor coating to see how that would affect caliper heat. I can say that at least made a huge difference. Fluid still is clean after the weekend. Rotors, however, very different story.

Put pfc-01s on and the rotors were warped within two sessions and cracked all the way through within 4. I used to run cryo'd rotors years back, and am considering maybe going that route again. I have never run DBAs, but are considering the DBA4000s. Guess I need to also take the fogs out for some ducting.

Just debating either 4000s or the centric premiums cryo'd. price on the rotors doesn't matter at this point. Just trying to avoid BBK. lol.

[FT-86 SpeedFactory]

We're using the DBA 4000 on our car right now with a Star Specs. The combo works well with the right pad. Used on Evo's and S2000's in the past as well.

I can see a dedicated car going to a BBK though like previously mentioned. All depends on how much track time you plan to have in the next year or two.

It's easier to plan than it is to pay for them though.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by LDadrenaline

Put pfc-01s on and the rotors were warped within two sessions and cracked all the way through within 4. I used to run cryo'd rotors years back, and am considering maybe going that route again.

99 times out of 100 rotors aren't warping but instead it's the pad laying down an uneven transfer layer which feels like a warped rotor. Follow pad bedding instructions. Some pads you can just throw on and go run them while others are very particular to bedding. In my history with PFC's, they are incredible pads, but I have a hell of time getting them to put down a good transfer layer. Cobalts, Hawk DTCs and Raybestos STs... Just throw them on and go.

According to STOPTECH:
http://stoptech.com/technical-suppor...ake-pad-bed-in

When rotors do warp, 9 times out of 10 it happens in the paddock when the really hot pad is sitting on one part of the rotor. So don't skip on your cool down lap and after parking the car come back to it in a couple minutes and roll it forward at bit so the pad rests on another part of the rotor.

The cracking all the way through in 4 sessions tells me that those rotors were cheap metal. I've had this happen all the time on Napa/Autozone/Schuck cheap chinese house brand rotors. Get the Centrics or Brembos and you'll be good to go. I often would show up to a race weekend with 3 sets of rotors, with the expectation of needing to use all of them. Once I switched to the Centrics, one set of rotors lasts me 3 race weekends instead of needing 3 sets for 1 weekend.



@diirk

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14002-15-Thermo-Shield-Roll/dp/B00029KC2U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1353441346&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+reflective+tape"]Thermo-Tec 14002 1 1/2" X 15' Thermo-Shield Roll : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

Just one layer wrapped around the boot.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Cobalts, Hawk DTCs and Raybestos STs... Just throw them on and go.

We've noticed that as well, which is why we've been running ST143's now on the chumpcar..

We have been *KILLING* rotors though.. cracking them all the way through the last two races.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

We have been *KILLING* rotors though.. cracking them all the way through the last two races.

Dave, the ST43's should come with a warning label on them: "Everything else will fail before the pads."

Seriously these things will work at 2200F! The bearing, hub, tie rods, calipers, fluid, rotors... it'll all fail before these pads. I had much better success with the ST42's. Much better on rotors. Slightly less bite so they require a bit more pedal effort BUT don't let that fool you, they don't give up.


Cheap rotors and ST43's



This is my Centric rotor with ST42's.
Total=355 minutes or 5.91 hours on rotors!


Over 7 hours on these pads and look at the life!



The taper is due to crappy single piston floating calipers... I should have flipped the pads more often as flipping the pads between sessions helps keep the taper to a minimum.

Taper sucks, it causes pad-to-piston knock back. So you'll have to tap your pedal before the braking zone to reset the pad/piston so when you do get on the brakes you don't the "loooooooong pedal".

[rice_classic]

OK, enough thread jacking but there you go... Centric Rotors (as a cheap OEM replacement) are absolutely stellar and so are the Raybestos racing pads.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

OK, enough thread jacking but there you go... Centric Rotors (as a cheap OEM replacement) are absolutely stellar and so are the Raybestos racing pads.

The first pic is what our Centric's look like after a race with the 43s.. scratch that.. after half a race or so (granted these are 14-24 hour races..). Pad wear is great, but the rotors die too early.

I'll have to check into the 42's that might be the answer. We are OK on heat management.. they get hot but not too hot for even hawk blues, so I'd guess the ST42s would be fine with the heat we have.. same with the rotors..

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

I'll have to check into the 42's that might be the answer. We are OK on heat management.. they get hot but not too hot for even hawk blues, so I'd guess the ST42s would be fine with the heat we have.. same with the rotors..

42's have the same heat range as the 43's just a slightly lower coefficient of friction which is why they're friendlier to rotors.