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Old 08-15-2012, 10:45 AM   #43
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Tom, we ran 245 A6s on my car at the divisional on the 7" wheel, the tire was certainly pinched, and the sidewalls were rounded out a bit. Initial turn in was a bit more vague and with being camber challenged (oe alignment) outer shoulder wear was noticable after 3 race days (2 with codriver on asphault, 1 on concrete). You can get away with it on an A6 based on the sidewall construction, but I wouldn't bother on a street tire. Probably best to go for a 225 on a 7 wide.
Thanks, good to hear as that's where I was going to start next month. I appreciate the info. I'm curious how tire wear is long term for stock with camber bolts with and without a larger FSB. I am expecting pretty good wear for RTR.

PS - Is this Rich or Tim?
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:04 AM   #44
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Tim, I codrive the events with Eric Malone, who usually drives a STX RX8.

I cant really comment on overall tire wear at this point as I have not done any significant testing yet. I have a plan to develop 2 different base concrete setups, 1 which sacrifices a little overall grip for better tire wear and another for ultimate grip.

P.S. If you were asking about the Rich who also drives ASP, he drives a Yellow GXP.
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:15 AM   #45
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Thanks, good to hear as that's where I was going to start next month. I appreciate the info. I'm curious how tire wear is long term for stock with camber bolts with and without a larger FSB. I am expecting pretty good wear for RTR.
I'm on my second set of 235 Dunlops. First set took 100+ runs and could easily have gone 100 more, but I wanted the 40 series for Nats. Wear evened out pretty nicely after the bolts. We watched temps pretty closely, watered early and often and swapped front-to-rear once. When I gave them to another driver,he couldn't tell which had been on the front.
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:20 AM   #46
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I'm on my second set of 235 Dunlops. First set took 100+ runs and could easily have gone 100 more, but I wanted the 40 series for Nats. Wear evened out pretty nicely after the bolts. We watched temps pretty closely, watered early and often and swapped front-to-rear once. When I gave them to another driver,he couldn't tell which had been on the front.
Did you ever flip them?
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:36 AM   #47
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I bet not. our 83 run dunlops on the RTA WRX still don't need to be flipped quite yet.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:38 PM   #48
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Well I got the car aligned with the stock crash bolts.
Was able to achieve (with me sitting in the car):

FRONT

Camber: -1.25 (L/R)
Toe: 0
Caster (non-adjustable): +5.3 (L), +5.5 (R)

REAR

Camber: -1.25 (L), -1.5 (R)
Toe IN (Total): 1/8"

Should I be concerned with the rear camber measurements not being equal?
The car does not seem to track to the left, as far as I can tell...Supposedly the alignment tech was not able to find any play of adjustment in the rear to even things out...
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:10 PM   #49
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It's not the end of the world if they aren't even. It won't pull because the toe is correct. Also I assume this was measured without you in the car so the question is what is it with you in the car? My car appears to have similar rear (more in the passenger side) though I have yet to have a chance to loosen it all up and see what I can get.
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:01 AM   #50
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I'm on my second set of 235 Dunlops. First set took 100+ runs and could easily have gone 100 more, but I wanted the 40 series for Nats. Wear evened out pretty nicely after the bolts. We watched temps pretty closely, watered early and often and swapped front-to-rear once. When I gave them to another driver,he couldn't tell which had been on the front.
What is the next best option after the 235 40 17? How do the 215 40 17 Dunlops compare? I didn't find a lot of info on this size. I know the taller tire would help at Nats' type courses, but wouldn't having the stiffest (shortest) sidewall help at local races?

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Old 08-18-2012, 01:28 AM   #51
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Why would you want shorter OD and narrower tires for Nats courses on a car that does 60mph in 2nd and has room for more? I would run 225/45/17, 235/40/17 or 245/40/17 if it mounts.
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:59 AM   #52
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It's not the end of the world if they aren't even. It won't pull because the toe is correct. Also I assume this was measured without you in the car so the question is what is it with you in the car? My car appears to have similar rear (more in the passenger side) though I have yet to have a chance to loosen it all up and see what I can get.
Thanks for the input! Yup, those measurents are with me in the car.
Hopefully Toyota issues some rear crash bolts eventually.
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:01 AM   #53
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There will never be rear crash bolts, the rear is a shock not a strut so the same adjustments don't apply. For stock class, much like the STi/WRX, we'll be SOL on rear adjustment other than loosen/wiggle/tighten and toe.
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:14 AM   #54
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Why would you want shorter OD and narrower tires for Nats courses on a car that does 60mph in 2nd and has room for more? I would run 225/45/17, 235/40/17 or 245/40/17 if it mounts.
Sorry if I wasn't clear. What I meant was the taller OD is needed for NATS. but what's best for local autox where if you have shorter courses (where you would want to pickup more speed)?

I guess 225/45/17, 235/40/17 would still be the answer, because the wider tire helps with grip.
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Old 08-18-2012, 12:12 PM   #55
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I went with 215/45/17s so I could square off the tire to the wheel as much as possible for the stiffer sidewall. Also, at least with the RS3s, there is 3lb per tire difference once you hit 225. Im not running Nats or anywhere close.
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If you guys spot any riced frs/brz post them here just for laughs no hating please.
Isn't there already a thread like this? It's called aggressive wheels or summat...
C Street Build/Progress Questions about C Street Autocrossing?
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:34 AM   #56
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I too had a great track day, blew away miatas, s2000's and much more in the corners...the 215's+light weight wheels+tune+intake/exhuast=power that outclasses other 2.0 NA

I think if you want to be fast into the corners, keeping unsprung wight down, diameters, and correct afr are key, more tire is NOT the answer

have crash bolts, but really there is no way around getting the plates, the caster correction is priceless for fast left right transitions at speed
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