Suspension Review: Race Comp Yellow Springs - Page 17 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

RYU · 10-22-2012, 05:14 PM

I posted this on a different thread. Hope it helps.

Here are my before and after alignment settings.
SETUP:
RCE Yellows (20mm drop, 250#/250#)
Front OEM Crash Bolts
Rear Whiteline Eccentric Bushing kit

My goals for this street/occassional_track car is -1.5 camber and 0 toe all around per RCE recommendations. Caster is whatever it's at...

After Lowering on RCE Yellows with OEM height and OEM alignment (i.e. Before alignment): No driver
Rear
camber Right -2.2, Left -1.7
Toe 0

Front
camber Right -1.7, Left -1.0
toe "close to 0"

After Lowering on RCE Yellows and after alignment @ West End: Driver's weight in car, approx 190lbs
Rear
camber -1.7/-1.7 (was aiming for -1.5 so a bit disappointed here but -1.7 was the max +camber we could achieve)
toe 0

Front
camber -1.4/-1.4 (was also aiming for -1.5 so close enough)
toe 0

I usually like running a bit more front camber so when coilovers arrive next year lowering the ride height should get me a bit more camber. I need to find a better option for the rear though. As I go lower i'd like to dial out more of that neg camber.

Oh, the rear camber bushing install wasn't that bad at all but not something i'd like to do in my garage w/o an air hammer.

Hope this helps some of you folks. The RCE Yellows are quite good.

Phaedrus29 · 10-22-2012, 11:03 PM

Argh...so as I said I had that shop install the Whiteline bushings today. I was just under the car and saw this:

Very upsetting...the metal there looks chewed up. I'm not sure how/why that happened during the bushings install and alignment. Any thoughts on the seriousness of this and how easy it would be to fix?

cnk · 10-22-2012, 11:06 PM

That does not look like work from a "reputable shop" as you wrote earlier. That looks like some hack job by a shade tree mechanic.

Phaedrus29 · 10-22-2012, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cnk

That does not look like work from a "reputable shop" as you wrote earlier. That looks like some hack job by a shade tree mechanic.

Agreed, very disappointed. The shop is called R/T Tuning in Lansdale, PA. From what I've heard, they have a great reputation and I had to wait over a month for my appointment. Not pleased.

tonystewart · 10-22-2012, 11:17 PM

Holy Moly

RYU · 10-22-2012, 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

Argh...so as I said I had that shop install the Whiteline bushings today. I was just under the car and saw this:

Very upsetting...the metal there looks chewed up. I'm not sure how/why that happened during the bushings install and alignment. Any thoughts on the seriousness of this and how easy it would be to fix?

I'm very sorry you had to fall victim to this. They must have went to town on the air hammer there. Why? I have absolutely no idea why... It's completely asinine.

That is part of the frame unibody they screwed up there. There are few things you can do... I would take it to a reputable classic car restoration shop. They need to strip that section and properly gusset it. Welding will be involved. They will then need to treat and paint again probably with some kind of bedliner material. It's not a lot of surface area so it looks a lot worse than it is. That section is weakened though so there might be grounds for a lawsuit here. I don't like to sue people but this is just wrong.

gmookher · 10-22-2012, 11:59 PM

they mauled your car

chulooz · 10-23-2012, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RYU

I'm very sorry you had to fall victim to this. They must have went to town on the air hammer there. Why? I have absolutely no idea why... It's completely asinine.

That is part of the frame unibody they screwed up there. There are few things you can do... I would take it to a reputable classic car restoration shop. They need to strip that section and properly gusset it. Welding will be involved. They will then need to treat and paint again probably with some kind of bedliner material. It's not a lot of surface area so it looks a lot worse than it is. That section is weakened though so there might be grounds for a lawsuit here. I don't like to sue people but this is just wrong.

Are you guys being serious? Its fine, you get what you pay for; sand it down and spray it. :happy0180:

Lawsuit?

JoeBoxer · 10-23-2012, 12:09 AM

Are both sides like this?

Phaedrus29 · 10-23-2012, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chulooz

...you get what you pay for....

Well I waited over a month to go to what was supposed to be a good shop. They charged $105/hr and said after they really "should" have charged $115/hr.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeBoxer

Are both sides like this?

No, only one side is like this, in just this spot.

chulooz · 10-23-2012, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

Well I waited over a month to go to what was supposed to be a good shop. They charged $105/hr and said after they really "should" have charged $115/hr.

No, only one side is like this, in just this spot.

I would just avoid them now and cut your losses. I wouldnt put my car in their hands again.

JoeBoxer · 10-23-2012, 12:17 AM

Wow that's dealership labor rate pricing and if anything they should have quoted more hours not a higher rate but since they didn't do it right anyways i would demand my money back. Speak to the manager/owner and also check and see if they are a member of the BBB.

RYU · 10-23-2012, 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chulooz

Are you guys being serious? Its fine, you get what you pay for; sand it down and spray it. :happy0180:

Lawsuit?

LOL Holy Sh*t...

I would not want to buy a used car from you. Who knows what you don't think is a big deal.

mike2100 · 10-23-2012, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RYU

LOL Holy Sh*t...

I would not want to buy a used car from you. Who knows what you don't think is a big deal.

Add one more to the bucket of reasons not to buy used!

10-22-2012, 11:17 PM	#229
tonystewart Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S Raven Location: Lake Worth Florida Posts: 1,182 Thanks: 76 Thanked 373 Times in 253 Posts Mentioned: 13 Post(s)	Holy Moly __________________ May'12 AT Raven, OFT V2, Perrin IntakeTube, Pulley & Overpipe,HKS Snorkel,FA20 EL Header,Nameless Frontpipe w/ Helmholtz, Crawford AOS, Cusco O2W Cooler, Grimmspeed Strut/MC Brace, Winjets w/D2S 3.0 HID by Illuminating Lighworkx, Fogs w/EU Stalk, LED's, JDM UnderPanels, Diffuser, Rigid Collars, Whiteline, HVT Camber Plates, Koni's, Swift Springs, GTSpec LCA, SPC Toearms, DBA 4K T-Slot Rotors, Ferodo DS2500, Vorshlag BrakeLines, MichelinPSS, 5Axis Wing, Raammat, Ensolite, JPM Coachworks, OEM+Ref400, 20mmspacers, TOMS

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10-22-2012, 05:14 PM	#225
RYU Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Drives: really slow... Location: Los Angeles (SGV) Posts: 737 Thanks: 340 Thanked 253 Times in 145 Posts Mentioned: 10 Post(s)	I posted this on a different thread. Hope it helps. Here are my before and after alignment settings. SETUP: RCE Yellows (20mm drop, 250#/250#) Front OEM Crash Bolts Rear Whiteline Eccentric Bushing kit My goals for this street/occassional_track car is -1.5 camber and 0 toe all around per RCE recommendations. Caster is whatever it's at... After Lowering on RCE Yellows with OEM height and OEM alignment (i.e. Before alignment): No driver Rear camber Right -2.2, Left -1.7 Toe 0 Front camber Right -1.7, Left -1.0 toe "close to 0" After Lowering on RCE Yellows and after alignment @ West End: Driver's weight in car, approx 190lbs Rear camber -1.7/-1.7 (was aiming for -1.5 so a bit disappointed here but -1.7 was the max +camber we could achieve) toe 0 Front camber -1.4/-1.4 (was also aiming for -1.5 so close enough) toe 0 I usually like running a bit more front camber so when coilovers arrive next year lowering the ride height should get me a bit more camber. I need to find a better option for the rear though. As I go lower i'd like to dial out more of that neg camber. Oh, the rear camber bushing install wasn't that bad at all but not something i'd like to do in my garage w/o an air hammer. Hope this helps some of you folks. The RCE Yellows are quite good.

10-22-2012, 11:03 PM	#226
Phaedrus29 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Drives: 2013 Subaru BRZ Location: PA Posts: 683 Thanks: 106 Thanked 248 Times in 133 Posts Mentioned: 10 Post(s)	Argh...so as I said I had that shop install the Whiteline bushings today. I was just under the car and saw this: Very upsetting...the metal there looks chewed up. I'm not sure how/why that happened during the bushings install and alignment. Any thoughts on the seriousness of this and how easy it would be to fix?

10-22-2012, 11:06 PM	#227
cnk Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: '13 DGM BRZ Limited Location: NJ Posts: 1,202 Thanks: 59 Thanked 547 Times in 339 Posts Mentioned: 8 Post(s)	That does not look like work from a "reputable shop" as you wrote earlier. That looks like some hack job by a shade tree mechanic.

10-22-2012, 11:59 PM	#231
gmookher Banned Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: VortechSC,BorlaEL,Perrin,GCRace Location: HighHeatHighAltitudeAZ,USA Posts: 2,254 Thanks: 458 Thanked 669 Times in 394 Posts Mentioned: 9 Post(s)	they mauled your car

10-23-2012, 12:09 AM	#233
JoeBoxer Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: Whiteout FR-S Location: Arkansas Posts: 4,154 Thanks: 1,666 Thanked 1,627 Times in 997 Posts Mentioned: 72 Post(s)	Are both sides like this?

10-23-2012, 12:17 AM	#236
JoeBoxer Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: Whiteout FR-S Location: Arkansas Posts: 4,154 Thanks: 1,666 Thanked 1,627 Times in 997 Posts Mentioned: 72 Post(s)	Wow that's dealership labor rate pricing and if anything they should have quoted more hours not a higher rate but since they didn't do it right anyways i would demand my money back. Speak to the manager/owner and also check and see if they are a member of the BBB.

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