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| Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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#15 |
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Also bring plenty of water and *remember* to drink it. In the excitement it's easy to get dehydrated without noticing and you just feel dizzy and tired. Also, as others have hinted at, leave your ego at home. Instructors have told me that they like instructing women because we're more receptive to learning and don't need to prove anything
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| The Following User Says Thank You to einzlr For This Useful Post: | ftc~brz (10-26-2012) |
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#16 |
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Put in some good brake fluid (any DOT4 fluid is a good starting point, and won't cost you more than $35 for entry level stuff).
If you're 100% sure you'll do this again, invest in some pads. Otherwise, go with the stock pads, but when your brake pedal stops responding, back off the brake pads, because they're faded and you don't want to keep heating them up; they'll just melt away. Take lots of water. Drink a full bottle between each session, if not more. Also take some sport drinks with electrolytes, and sip throughout the day. Try to get paired up with an instructor that is familiar or drives a momentum car. They'll be able to best guide you through a style of driving suited to the FRS/BRZ. |
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#17 |
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I think I'm going to keep every as is for now and get a good feel for the car. Do you guys they my breaks are gonna be gone by the time I'm done with track day? I do need the car to come back hom. lol
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#18 |
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#19 | |
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Quote:
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-Dave
Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dave-ROR For This Useful Post: | rice_classic (10-18-2012) |
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#20 |
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Personally I wouldn't attempt using stock pads and fluid unless you have real pads and fluid with you and are just being lazy (like I was at Mid Ohio).
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#21 | |
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Changing to race pads will affect how quickly the brakes ramp up in stopping power (the same amount of pedal input will make the car brake harder), but it won't change the ultimate grip level of the tires, or how quickly you brake if you're using ABS. The brake fluid and pads are ultimately there to prevent the car's performance from degrading as you heat them up, rather than to make you faster. Also, we want to make sure you get home safely
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | Dave-ROR (10-18-2012) |
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#22 |
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NASA SpecE30 Racer
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The OEM brake pads and brake fluid are not intended for the heat and abuse that a single 20 minute session can put them through at most track days. Now your options are to break early and not get into ABS to try and protect them, or you can upgrade the pads and fluid and work on maximizing your brakes without having to worry about not finishing the session because your pedal goes to the floor.
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Street/Track Car: 2006 Honda S2000 TT3 || Race Car: 1987 BMW 325is SpecE30 || Tow Vehicle: 2014 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Sold Cars: 2012 BMW M3 || 2013 Subaru BRZ || 2012 Porsche Cayman R || 2009 Chevrolet Z06 || 2009 BMW M3 || 2004 BMW M3 || 2004 Nissan 350Z |
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#23 |
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camber bolts, brake pads, fluid, and tires at a minimum before tracking
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#24 |
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Some great info in this thread, I'm keeping my eyes open for something like this here in Southern California (probably only Willow Springs, right?).
For first-timers, do you guys suggest a dedicated pad or just something that can serve double duty? I keep hearing that either RC5+ ($$) or DS2500 are good street/light track pads. My thinking is to minimize the extra work needed to go out and have fun. I don't want it to be a chore. Also, any thoughts on Pyrotect helmets? Import Image Racing has full-face for $255, which seems like a great deal if they're a decent helmet (SA2010).
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#25 |
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The car should be fine in stock form if you've never been to a track before. The car is new enough that your brake fluid should be fine. You're not gods gift to driving...maybe you are, who knows - but when you're first starting out, the car literally needs nothing.
I track rental cars all the time - never had an issue, even at an advanced level. |
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#26 |
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What ^^^ said.
I ran my car totally stock on the track a few weeks ago. It did just fine. No brake fade, minimal tire wear, handling was reasonable. I think for the first few trips to the track, running stock is a great way to learn the car. Bring a decent tire guage and call it a day. Check your temps cold then hot. If you're getting over 40psi hot, drop it a pound or two. 38psi hot seemed to work well for me on stock tires on a road course. Pyrotech makes a good helmet. No worries there. and as a disclaimer: this isn't my first rodeo. I've run a few events before in a variety of cars. The most important thing to prep for the track is yourself. Go there and learn.
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#27 | |
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More or less agree on the rest, I'd still do pads too though. Doesn't hurt.
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-Dave
Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dave-ROR For This Useful Post: | 7thgear (10-26-2012) |
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#28 |
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for whatever reason, the factory filled fluids on this thing are pretty el cheapo feeling
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