Draco-REX's BRZ "Ghost"

[SkAsphalt]

Boss car there Draco. Good look

Now you have to update your avatar to reflect your new bulbs

[stevo_12v]

Nicely modded car. Form over function while still remaining 'aesthetic'.. quite like that. Have you thought about changing the front wheel indicators to clear or leave them as-is(if its illegal)?

Also whats up with the crescent moon on the bin? lol

[serialk11r]

Wow dude, that rear shot you have is amazing. The spoiler looks amazing from an aesthetic standpoint, it flows perfectly with the pillars and trunk. I think the way the car is from the factory the rear window is lacking a bit of natural horizontal taper (which also isn't ideal for aero), but the spoiler you have there gives the illusion of a very aesthetically pleasing side taper on the rear window even though it's not actually there. From the side, the way it pokes out slightly from the back gives it a super race-car like look but it still looks OEM.

I do think they could've flattened the angle a tiny bit and then made it a fraction of an inch longer to hang a little closer to the bumper lengthwise (from front to rear of the car) but that's just me (I'm a fan of how midenginge cars with no trunk have a less chunky rear end due to a more integrated bumper, and longer trunk lips tend to give a more unified look IMO). Otherwise, it's perfect.

[VSGTS14]

it's looking good man.

[cobrabyte]

Car's looking great! Giving me some ideas, for sure. Keep it up!

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by stevo_12v

Nicely modded car. Form over function while still remaining 'aesthetic'.. quite like that. Have you thought about changing the front wheel indicators to clear or leave them as-is(if its illegal)?

Also whats up with the crescent moon on the bin? lol

Function over Form, you mean?

I have the side markers tinted. I'm ok with how they look for now and don't see a need to shell out for clear markers.

As for the moon, that bin is for doggy-droppings. So I guess they were trying to emulate the classic outhouse moon.

[stevo_12v]

LOL.. I stuffed up there

[itisthumper]

Probably my favorite BRZ build here so far. Clean with subtle mods. Exactly how I would do mine.

How many inches do the RCE Yellows drop the car? and what is the Starter Kit? I wonder how it compares to Eibach springs

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by itisthumper

Probably my favorite BRZ build here so far. Clean with subtle mods. Exactly how I would do mine.

How many inches do the RCE Yellows drop the car? and what is the Starter Kit? I wonder how it compares to Eibach springs

Sorry I didn't see this earlier.

The RCE Yellows drop the car 20mm all around. The starter kit also comes with Whiteline Com-C front strut mounts, crash bolts, and Whiteline rear camber bushings. The Com-C mounts locate the top of the struts inwards for more negative camber (better for mid-corner grip) and back for more caster (give a touch more steering weight and centering.) The crash bolts replace the upper bolts connecting the knuckle to the strut which allows you to get even more negative camber in the front. Both the mounts and bolts let me get -2 degrees of camber. The rear camber bushings replace the inboard bushings of the rear upper control arm. They let you dial in more negative camber in the rear.

The strut mount and crash bolts are excellent. The camber bushings are a pain to install and are kind of fiddly to adjust. I think it would be a better idea to go with adjustable lower control arms and/or the powerflex camber bushings.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Sorry I didn't see this earlier.

The RCE Yellows drop the car 20mm all around. The starter kit also comes with Whiteline Com-C front strut mounts, crash bolts, and Whiteline rear camber bushings. The Com-C mounts locate the top of the struts inwards for more negative camber (better for mid-corner grip) and back for more caster (give a touch more steering weight and centering.) The crash bolts replace the upper bolts connecting the knuckle to the strut which allows you to get even more negative camber in the front. Both the mounts and bolts let me get -2 degrees of camber. The rear camber bushings replace the inboard bushings of the rear upper control arm. They let you dial in more negative camber in the rear.

The strut mount and crash bolts are excellent. The camber bushings are a pain to install and are kind of fiddly to adjust. I think it would be a better idea to go with adjustable lower control arms and/or the powerflex camber bushings.

So do you have no issues with the Com-C's using the OEM struts and RCE yellows? I think the welded flat washer in the OEM upper spring perches is causing the bearings to bind up and cause the rubber to deform when turning. Did you use a conical washer in between the spring perch and Com-C? I believe there is also a lack of clearance between the two because of the negative camber added, which was causing them to collide over bumps and make loud rattling noises. My upper spring perches had marks on them from where they were hitting the Com-C's before I switched back to the stock top mounts and had no issues. I could also watch the rubber deform around the bearing when turning the wheel. The Com-C's had notchy bearings when I removed them, but I'm not convinced that the bearings were bad to begin with. I think the lack of a conical washer and the negative camber was putting the welded flat washer in a bad position and there wasn't proper contact with the inner bearing.

I have a new set of Com-C's from Whiteline and I'm hesitant to install them because neither Whiteline nor RCE seem willing to step up and solve the problem that everyone is having with this combination of parts.

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

So do you have no issues with the Com-C's using the OEM struts and RCE yellows? I think the welded flat washer in the OEM upper spring perches is causing the bearings to bind up and cause the rubber to deform when turning. Did you use a conical washer in between the spring perch and Com-C? I believe there is also a lack of clearance between the two because of the negative camber added, which was causing them to collide over bumps and make loud rattling noises. My upper spring perches had marks on them from where they were hitting the Com-C's before I switched back to the stock top mounts and had no issues. I could also watch the rubber deform around the bearing when turning the wheel. The Com-C's had notchy bearings when I removed them, but I'm not convinced that the bearings were bad to begin with. I think the lack of a conical washer and the negative camber was putting the welded flat washer in a bad position and there wasn't proper contact with the inner bearing.

I have a new set of Com-C's from Whiteline and I'm hesitant to install them because neither Whiteline nor RCE seem willing to step up and solve the problem that everyone is having with this combination of parts.

Mine are a straight forward install. Stock upper perches, no extra washers, max camber of -2.0, no popping or other noises. They could be stock for how quiet they are.

I believe WL had a bad batch of bearings go through and/or people were using impacts and over-torquing the top nut. The whole install can be done with hand tools.

[Jesse]

beautiful br-z, well done draco

[swift996]

Very tasteful mods. Have you had any issues with that front lip being too low? I'm looking to do the same once I get my car in.

Also - Thanks for the great amount of detail on all your mods. Get's me real excited for my build.

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by swift996

Very tasteful mods. Have you had any issues with that front lip being too low? I'm looking to do the same once I get my car in.

Also - Thanks for the great amount of detail on all your mods. Get's me real excited for my build.

With care, it's fine. The shark-nosed shape of the front means you get much more clearance if you approach at an angle. But I've gone over speed bumps without scraping.

The only time I've had a serious scrape is when I left a parking lot a little too quickly. The suspension compressed which let the lip scrape. If I had been thinking and left more conservatively, I wouldn't have scraped.

Now, I know some areas have much greater transitions between driveways and main roads than OH here, so you'l have to make your own decision. If you haven't seen the thread with my test fit pictures, this is the clearance you have to work with: