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#113 |
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I ended up moving mine back up a bit over the brake pedal height. Pedal free play is around 11-12mm. I don't understand how you can adjust freeplay, I'm assuming you can only adjust pedal height which effects engagement point.
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#114 |
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I just did it. Wow, what a difference! My pedal has zero free play before, no wonder I smelled burned clutch all the time - it was probably slipping! Turning the clutch master rod lowered the engagement point and also introduced free play at the top of the pedal travel.
You can adjust the free play separately by raising or lowering the clutch switch assembly (that's the white button with the 14 mm nuts the OP was talking about). This is what the repair manual says to do to change the height of the pedal, but if you lowered it too much that way, you would be effectively riding the clutch. |
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#115 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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#116 |
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Interesting. I assumed that switch was only adjusted when you moved the pedal higher or lower via the rod. If you move it closer it would cause the switch to be pushed in more. I'm guessing ideally you would want the cruise control to disable once you get past the free play
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#117 |
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#118 |
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Protips
Thanks Koji for the DIY! I just adjusted mine and haven't tried it out yet, but here are some tips for others before I forget:
1. The space on either side of the hex nut (12mm) is very small, so use a short wrench! Alternatively, I used a short pair of slip-joint pliers because I wasn't near my wrench set. Trying this may help you get a better grip on that nut. 2. The 14mm hex nut was harder for me to get turning, luckily there's enough room to get a bigger (or adjustable) wrench on that one. 3. If you're upside down (laying on your back, looking up - and yes, it is possible...) you will be turning the wrench from left to right to loosen, and the other way to tighten. 4. Depending on how tall you are, you can use your head to press on the clutch pedal while trying to turn the bolt and/or 12mm nut. It was easier for me to do that than try and get my hand to it. 5. It didn't seem like the clutch pedal moved at all height-wise, but you can tell how much it's moved by checking the "cruise control switch" / white button the OP mentioned, before and after turning that bolt. You'll see when the button is flush and when it's sticking out. If it's sticking out that means you've lowered your clutch pedal. Congratulations! (Don't forget to adjust that button so it's close to flush again.) Hope that helps people. At first I thought I wasn't going to be able to get that 12mm hex nut loose, but with a little persistence and the right tools, the process really only takes 10-15 minutes. Good luck with yours! I'll post an update after testing out the new engagement point. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Quasar Kid For This Useful Post: | ft86Fan (10-08-2012) |
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#119 |
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That was easy. I adjusted to the max both ways to see the impact. One way you have about 1inch total of clutch. You just drop the clutch and go. Great for a first time manual driver.
The other way you have a lot more throw and a lot more time to find the catch point. Before I would get a clunk dropping the clutch in between 2 and 3 if shifting hard. Now it kind of bounces and keeps going. Gonna check out some other local frs's as 4 people have said my clutch feels way different. Mine does feel like an old cable clutch. I want to see what the stock adjustment is and if they changed the return spring on the pedal to a beefier one on mine. Thanks for the write up. I will be playing with this more. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2 |
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#120 |
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update
So I did some stop and go testing in an empty lot to get used to the new feel. I had turned the bolt on mine about 1.5-2 turns before re-tightening that hex nut, and while I definitely noticed a difference, it wasn't super amazing.
But it DID help!I will say this; before the adjustment, I was having a very tough time. Now I can easily drive to work and back without missing that engagement point or my leg cramping up from hovering, hahah. For what it's worth, this is also my first manual trans (like several other people here, it seems...) so if it made a difference to me, it'll probably help anyone. (ymmv) :happy0180: |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Quasar Kid For This Useful Post: | akahenry (01-07-2014) |
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#121 |
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Just want to say thanks! I cursed about clutch every time I drove the car until I had the pedal adjusted. A small adjustment made world of difference! What was scion/subaru thinking?! ( yes the collegue's brz is exactly the same, she complained the same, and i had her drive my car and she's so thrilled too
![]() I studied the workshop manual's clutch pedal section but its no where near clear as your descriptions. The manual spells out 110-115mm travel needed to completed engage/disengage clutch so as long as one doesn't over do and moved pedal way to low, it shouldnt cause any issue with clutch function. I moved the clutch pedal to about same height as brake. This is certainly a personal thing so each to his/her own. So hell ya! car's definitely much enjoyable with clutch pedal adjusted!!! Thank You!!! |
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#122 |
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The Goodness
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After a few weeks my clutch feels just like it did before the adjustment, but the height of the pedal is where I set it. Any ideas what the problem could be?
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Past Cars-- 05 RSX-S, 06 S2000, 03 RSX, 98 GTP, 00 Mustang GT, 96 Grand Am SE, 81 Corolla
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#123 | |
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Quote:
Did you tighten the nut back down all the way? Mine came loose a bit the first time I adjusted it because I didn't get it torqued down enough. |
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#124 |
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Finally got around to it. It took me longer than 10 minutes, closer to a half hour, but that was I kept foolin' around with clutch until it felt exactly right. Thanks for the directions.
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#125 |
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I'll check this
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Past Cars-- 05 RSX-S, 06 S2000, 03 RSX, 98 GTP, 00 Mustang GT, 96 Grand Am SE, 81 Corolla
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| clutch adjustment, clutch helper spring |
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