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| Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment Anything related to in-car electronics, navigation, and infotainment. |
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#15 |
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Drives: '13 GBS BRZ Lim, 2006 Dodge RAM MC
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Got Morel Elates's in the front bi-amped and it sounds wonderful. Using a DSP and it pushes the stage out very nicely. Without the DSP it still sounds very "good" to normal people.
The midbass is VERY tight now that's I've matted both doors.
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#16 |
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#17 | |
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When i talked to scott @ Hybrid Audio, he said to bandpass the L6 50hz-250, and Highpass the L3SE from 250hz - up. should sound incerdible when all the processing is setup and properly EQ/Time ' ed.. |
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#18 | |
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Zorro do you think i should try the Trinity's or wait until i can get an amp and do it right? |
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#19 |
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Wait for an amp, the stock one is a joke.
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#20 |
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#21 |
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Yeah i guess i am going to just install my MSBassPro SQ and go from there, i may replace the stock 6.5's with some 2ohm JBL Power mids if i can find somebody to sell me some seperately and then just sound deaden the hell out of the car.
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#22 | |
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#23 |
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Full Range. (I do not push them) I did not move the cap over. I took the connector off the stock speaker, and connected the 2 wires to the L3SE. the tweeter was disconnected by clipping the leads, that way i could solder them back if i went back to stock.
i'd wait until you have a decent amplifier. I was just wanting to play with my new toys. It's kind of like masturbation when you are still a virgin, fun in it's own right, but not nearly as good as the real deal HAHAH
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#24 | |
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#25 |
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I still have to do the rear quarters and wheel wells, but the car is twice as quite already as it was. Haven't even done the ceiling or floor yet either actually. The doors and trunk are very noisy.
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#26 |
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I've added a little on the trunk lid and in spare tire well but not enough to tell a difference. I think i'm going to do the doors, the rear interior panels and do a better job in the trunk.
I've got my amp install kit ordered to hook up the JBL powered sub. The distributor for H Audio/Audible Physics is going to put a cap on the 3" speakers i'm buying so they will be ready to drop in and i won't have to add an amp or separate crossover for now. Guess i am replacing the speakers now too and putting the Ebony 6.5's in the doors for the midbass. Last edited by JoeBoxer; 09-29-2012 at 02:15 AM. |
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#27 |
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The rear deck really sucks also when you add a little bass.
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#28 |
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now that i got a FR-S under my belt, i can chime in.
stock locations 2 way, 6.5" mid in door, 1" tweeter in stock 3" location, full DSP, active. it does quite well, i playd around on the rta for about an hour and then tuned by ear for an hour. center is very solid with GREAT depth, width is pillar to pillar but not beyond, height is a few inches above dash level whcih for me is perfect. tonality wise, obviously i need more time, but with the stock locations, i can see some small reflection issues, on the rta, most notably the spike in the upper freqs, 16k to 20k, though its doubtful you can really hear it. there are also some valleys and dips that i was able to correct pretty quickly with the eq... here is a shot of the curve i got while i was wokring, this is before i finalized things...then i turned off my computer without taking another screen shot. the bump at 80hz was easily fixed, i simply had the sub at a 24 db vs 12db. the things to note that i think were a result of the reflection and location of the tweeter: the 16-20k bump and there are some small spikes between 5k and 16k, but most were quickly toned down. (the final curve looked a lot smoother uptop) of course the speakers also have something to do with it. so basically, i would say, a dash mat of some type would definetly help in this car, though off hte bad right now, it still very good. i was also surprised that despite having a closed off trunk with no rear deck speaker, the bass came through quite well ![]() so i would say...stock locations works well for sq if you want to make it better, get a nice plus dash mat if you want to really make it be the best you can get, i would recommend molding the stock location to house a 3" driver tilted back at you a bit. and if you do a 3 way, mold the tweeter into the A pillars. thats how i would do it if i were to approach a FRS/BRZ with highest possible SQ being the goal
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