F1point4's Asphalt FR-S 6MT

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by F1point4

Haha. I don't have my own garage so I have to carry my gear to one of my work sites. Need to keep it minimum. In the end, jacks and stands allow me to do more than ramps do, that's all.

Ahh, makes sense.

[Phaedrus29]

Originally Posted by F1point4

Several things I could do to correct the situation
- get a floor jack that could lift higher
- get stands that are smaller (I have tall stands)
- find a thicker block of wood to place between the jack and frame (could be unsafe)

I think I'd try a thicker block of wood next time.

As for sliding the jack under the center jack points, mine doesn't fit either in its resting position. I had to pump and hold the handle all the way down for the jack to clear the front lip. Even in this position I probably had like 1/2" to 1" of space between the jack and the front lip. This is probably why I wont buy a larger floor jack.

If my car was lowered I'm afraid I'd have to buy one of those long flat jacks to lift it.


--
F1point4

I ended up getting this jack from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68051.html

Because the front jack point is back a bit, the raised part of the jack gets much too close to the front bumper for my liking. Especially if the car is lowered, I can't imagine this jack will work. Maybe this one would have been a better option???:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68050.html

[F1point4]

Got the JDM Side Markers on. Did a DIY writeup here
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15560

It looks so much better now that all the lights match


20120824-LolaClearSideMarker-01 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20120824-LolaClearSideMarker-33 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20120824-LolaClearSideMarker-31 by VictorN07, on Flickr

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

I ended up getting this jack from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68051.html

Because the front jack point is back a bit, the raised part of the jack gets much too close to the front bumper for my liking. Especially if the car is lowered, I can't imagine this jack will work. Maybe this one would have been a better option???:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68050.html

Agreed, The lip hits the handle on mine so I have to insert the jack with the handle pushed all the way down. When this one breaks, I'll get the super flat jack you listed.

[Phaedrus29]

Originally Posted by F1point4

Agreed, The lip hits the handle on mine so I have to insert the jack with the handle pushed all the way down. When this one breaks, I'll get the super flat jack you listed.

It's not so much the handle for me but rather this part:




-----
UPDATE: I exchanged that jack for this one (http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68050.html), and I can report that this one works perfectly with no fitment issues. The Harbor Freight 3ton jack stands also do a nice job of supporting the car on both sides of the pinch welds...they clear the whole pinch weld.

[F1point4]

JDM Mirror installed.
DIY here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16123


20120830-LolaJDMMirror-00 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20120830-LolaJDMMirror-18 by VictorN07, on Flickr

[F1point4]

Back for more. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16300


20120831-LolaBlackVue400DIY-01 by VictorN07, on Flickr

On a side note I am currently averaging 29 MPG with 2500 miles on the clock. I am sadface because no matter how careful I am there is swirl marks in my paint. However I suspect that the body shop I used put some on while attempting to clean my car for repair. Guess I will take this as an opportunity to learn paint correction.

[F1point4]

Did some more interior changes recently. Here is a custom engraved Flossy Shift Knob. Swapped it to save the stock knob from getting marred from use.

It weighs considerably more than the OEM shift knob and makes shifts a little smoother. I believe MTF swap is needed for ultimate smoothness. Install was painful. It took me 20 minutes to screw it on so the picture was aligned correctly.

You already know I like to take photos, artsy photos. Stock knob

20120831-FlossyShiftKnob-3 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Comparison

20120831-FlossyShiftKnob-4 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Final product

20120831-FlossyShiftKnob-5 by VictorN07, on Flickr

[F1point4]

My legs don't bend the way necessary for heel toe. Decided to swap out for the Sullivan Racing Products Racing Pedals. The quality is quite good and it brings the gas pedal closer to the brake. SRP makes a gas pedal only option that matches OEM fairly close, but I opted for the entire set.

Must slow down with the mods. Staying true to the hellafunctional motto.

Whole set. Milled out of aluminium.

20120914-SRP Racing Pedals-1 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Grid pattern. Not anodized. The brake, clutch, and dead pedal have this texture.

20120914-SRP Racing Pedals-6 by VictorN07, on Flickr

The gas pedal is smooth so your foot can slide

20120914-SRP Racing Pedals-7 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Add the pedals have this finish on the back

20120914-SRP Racing Pedals-4 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Installed!

20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-9 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-11 by VictorN07, on Flickr

[F1point4]

Here are some observations from the racing pedal install.

My car was undriveable for a while

20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-12 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Held on tight

20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-13 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Covered removed and my chosen drill points

20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-14 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Comparison between stock gas pedal and new gas pedal

20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-15 by VictorN07, on Flickr

It's not a perfect fit. I'm okay with it though

20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-16 by VictorN07, on Flickr



Dead Pedal was a bitch. I ended up cutting a hole in the carpet.

20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-17 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Shows how much carpet I took out.

20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-19 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Clips

20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-18 by VictorN07, on Flickr

There was foam behind the pedal. I took that out.

20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-20 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Full fit.

20120915-SRP Racing Pedals-21 by VictorN07, on Flickr


Instead of leaving the foam there, I decided to remove it. The mounting surface for the dead pedal is not rubber, but metal. It was also not black so I ended up using black racing tape so it grey wouldn't show through the pedal.

The kit included 8 self tapping screws and 6 bolts with locking nuts. The gas pedal was plastic so the self tapping screws were perfect for that. I used 4. The brake and clutch pedals were steel so I ended up using the nuts and bolts for those. Used 3 each.

I knew ahead of time I wouldn't be able to use the nuts and bolts for the dead pedal since I can't reach behind. When I found out the mounting surface was metal I knew the self tapping screws provided aren't appropriate but I made them work. The instructions said to drill a 1/16" hole for the dead pedal but the screws wouldn't work unless until I bored out a 7/64" hole. The self tapping screws are also fairly short. Think 1/2". If I used the foam the screws would not reach the metal.

Not aiming to bash SRP. It is a good product. Just wanted to raise awareness.

[post_break]

What's the cost on those pedals? In my opinion the brake pedal is about an inch too far right, and the gas as well. Way too close to the wall your leg rests up against.

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by post_break

What's the cost on those pedals? In my opinion the brake pedal is about an inch too far right, and the gas as well. Way too close to the wall your leg rests up against.

116 with the coupon code "ft86club". They have a black anodized option. I with you on alignment of the stock pedals. The picture shows that plastic piece next to the gas pedal all scuffed up.

I do like that my shoes definitely grip to the brake and clutch with the new pedals' grid pattern.

[F1point4]

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=68

Originally Posted by F1point4

I like technical data. I like photography. Here is a thread about both. Enjoy

Goals:
Stay Functional
Max Grip
Lower weight than OEM combo.

Went with:
WedsSport TC105N 17x9 +35 square setup (Thanks @RavSpec)
Hubcentric Rings 65mm to 56mm
Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec 245/40R17 (Thanks Discount Tire)
Stock TPMS sensors
Stock Suspension
Factory Geometry settings


The 17x9 +35 in a 5x100 setup is a limited run for the 86. Thus official weight is unlisted on the Weds website. Here is what my human scale told me.

20120921-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-17 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Sports Utility Vehicle. I don't have a picture of when I had the OEM wheels in my car, but they fit dammit

20120921-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-2 by VictorN07, on Flickr

The setup. Discount Tire was cool about letting me be in the garage and learning about what they do. I was super happy to be there cause they almost put on my wheels with impact tools. Nope!

20120921-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-16 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Discount Tire told me they'd dismount the OEM tire and pull the TPMS sensor to transfer to the new setup as part of the deal. Here is a picture of the sensor. It is attached to the valve stem.

20120921-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-14 by VictorN07, on Flickr

20120921-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-15 by VictorN07, on Flickr


I don't know how calibrated my scale was. What was important to me was the difference in weight. Stock wheels are 40.6 lbs. TC105N with Star Specs were 42.4. Damn.... Anyway it is pretty good for what I'm putting on.

20120921-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-18 by VictorN07, on Flickr

20120921-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-19 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Thoughts so far

I drove 200 miles so far on this setup. Haven't taken it to a track yet. It definitely gives me more confidence in what I'm doing. Just grip for miles. Since the wheels now weigh more, I can definitely feel the sluggishness at start. Brakes fine. I figure a headerback exhaust may balance out the unsprung weight gain. The Star Specs do have a different audible characteristic. I find the OEM Michelins to grumble and have a deeper tone. These Star Specs definitely howl, but it's not annoying. I could probably fix some of that with sound deadener. For rubbing, I believe that other people threw on 17x9 +42s and they fit fine so the +35 offset should be good. I haven't felt anything bad in my driving so far.

In terms of looks, the rear looks great. The front sticks out a little bit as the pictures below show. However, stance. I got plenty of that now. Now for photos; please enjoy them as much as I did taking them.


20120922-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-16-Edit by VictorN07, on Flickr


20120922-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-1 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20120922-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-22-Edit by VictorN07, on Flickr


Front

20120922-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-30 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Rear

20120922-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-25 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20120922-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-28 by VictorN07, on Flickr



20120922-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-33-Edit by VictorN07, on Flickr


20120922-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-32-Edit by VictorN07, on Flickr


20120922-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-37-Edit by VictorN07, on Flickr


20120922-TC105N_Z1StarSpec-41 by VictorN07, on Flickr


Questions I have

If anyone would like to help me answer these quick questions, I'd appreciate it greatly

* Since my wheels stick out, I have to add negative camber if I lower it?
* What is the daily driving PSI for this setup? Discount Tire said 35psi, but I have no experience with aftermarket wheels.
* Will a headerback gain balance out the unsprung weight gain? I was just guessing up there.

[F1point4]

Rally Armor Mud Flaps Review

Ordered direct from Rally Armor. They shipped USPS Priority from NY. Wasn't expecting it, but it came in two days. And on it went this morning.

I didn't get pictures of the flaps themselves. They are approximately 1/8" thick, made of urethane, have a shiny finish. They install into the factory clip locations so there isn't any drilling required. Remove the stock clips, install the bracket and plastic tabs for the screws and then screw the flap into place. The are "adjustable width" so they can slide in and out depending on preference. If you do not want to see the Rally Armor logo, you can turn the flaps over and switch sides.

Definitely have the right tools or be able to remove the wheels. I opted to not remove the wheels so I turned the screws using vice grips.

Other than the fact that the screws are silver, the flaps compliment the extra width from the 17x9 245 wheels. Some may say ugly, I think they look great and are hellafunctional. For pure aesthetics, I probably would not have gone with it if I didn't go with wide wheels. I think the color goes well with Asphalt/DGM too.

I brought my Nikon sans memory card so iPhone has to do. Now on to the pictures

Side shot:

21020923-RallyArmorMudGaurd-01 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Front 3/4:

21020923-RallyArmorMudGaurd-08 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Rear 3/4

21020923-RallyArmorMudGaurd-07 by VictorN07, on Flickr

21020923-RallyArmorMudGaurd-02 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Rear Stance

21020923-RallyArmorMudGaurd-04 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Rear ISO View. This is the flap pulled all the way out. Lines up with the wheel very well. I can slide it in about 1/2".

21020923-RallyArmorMudGaurd-03 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Front ISO View. I had the flap all the way in in the front. As you can sort of see, it's not flush with the wheel, but I think all the way out would look off.

21020923-RallyArmorMudGaurd-06 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Front installation. Held on with screws and washers. Wish the screws were black. Four in the front. Note the shinyness.

21020923-RallyArmorMudGaurd-09 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Rear Installation. Three in the back. It doesn't come all the way up to the wheel well liner, but you cannot see the gap from the rear, even if you bend down.

21020923-RallyArmorMudGaurd-10 by VictorN07, on Flickr