Brakes for Turbo Upgrade?

[Memphis]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Good to know

Maybe I'll start a separate gauging interest thread.

- Andrew

You got to make one for the FR-S as well.

[RYU]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Good to know

Maybe I'll start a separate gauging interest thread.

- Andrew

Yes! The rotor shield and the molded bumper inlet are key. Anyone can put together a hose kit. Just my $0.02!

[RaceTech]

^ Essex Parts is creating something for the BRZ..

[empower-auto]

Hawk HPS pads, Motul 5.1 fluid ... be done with it.

Or .. wait for Stoptech to put out a Sport Kit for our car. 4 rotors, pads, lines, CHEAP

[JoeBoxer]

Originally Posted by empower-auto

Hawk HPS pads, Motul 5.1 fluid ... be done with it.

Or .. wait for Stoptech to put out a Sport Kit for our car. 4 rotors, pads, lines, CHEAP

Stoptech has a Sport Kit already, its around $550 i think.

[WingsofWar]

With the car already balanced and several trackers seeing good trail braking results, I cant imagine that a 4 corner brake upgrade is necessary to get the performance you absolutely need for HPDE.

What we want is getting repeated shorter stopping distance with no fade. While wheels, tires, pads can address the majority of stopping distance. As well as SS Lines, HP Fluid, and ducting can address majority of fade. Increasing the rotor size and effective caliper clamp area, is something that seems to almost see no major benefit cost wise.To me at least...

considering we are only stopping a car that weighs roughly 2800lbs, the factory rotor area is 11.4 rear, 11.6 front, and already has a stopping distance average of 60-0 @ 115ft on its factory tires, rubber lines, OEM pads, and OEM fluid.

How does this compare? a 1992 Mazda rx7 twin turbo, one of the great skidpad performers ever. Has roughly 2800-2900lbs. The factory rotor area is 11.5 all around. With 4 piston calipers up front. Rubber lines, and 225/50 and 16x8 all around. Made a Average of 114ft from 60-0.

The AWD Mitsubishi Evo VIII MR with 3250lbs, on 12.7' Brembo rotors and 4-piston calipers front, and 12' Brembo rotors and 2-piston calipers rear. Made an average of 112ft. Offical reports of 110ft.

So for the FRS, a average of 115ft stock compared to those 2 performance models, you can see that those factory brakes are holding up VERY well. And all you have to do is improve it, is pads, fluid, lines, ducting, tires. and im betting that you would be averaging 110-112ft with very minimal fade. All on factory equipment that is easy to maintain. and mind you that also those 2 cars are already track ready.

[CSG Mike]

Consider this.

We've been running road courses with nothing but good fluid and race pads, and haven't had any problems. Here's a video of us at ACS; we're braking from ~130mph to ~45 entering turn 3. You can see the shift light in 5th in the banking

I think that a BBK is overkill until you learn the limits of your car and are actually experiencing problems. Stick to just good pads and fluid.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waCr19ZM640"]BRZ at Auto Club Speedway - YouTube[/ame]

[Chicago]

better tires, race pads and fluid. That's all you'll need to be track ready. Save the BBK for swaggin on the streets

[FT-86 SpeedFactory]

Originally Posted by WingsofWar

With the car already balanced and several trackers seeing good trail braking results, I cant imagine that a 4 corner brake upgrade is necessary to get the performance you absolutely need for HPDE.

What we want is getting repeated shorter stopping distance with no fade. While wheels, tires, pads can address the majority of stopping distance. As well as SS Lines, HP Fluid, and ducting can address majority of fade. Increasing the rotor size and effective caliper clamp area, is something that seems to almost see no major benefit cost wise.To me at least...

considering we are only stopping a car that weighs roughly 2800lbs, the factory rotor area is 11.4 rear, 11.6 front, and already has a stopping distance average of 60-0 @ 115ft on its factory tires, rubber lines, OEM pads, and OEM fluid.

How does this compare? a 1992 Mazda rx7 twin turbo, one of the great skidpad performers ever. Has roughly 2800-2900lbs. The factory rotor area is 11.5 all around. With 4 piston calipers up front. Rubber lines, and 225/50 and 16x8 all around. Made a Average of 114ft from 60-0.

The AWD Mitsubishi Evo VIII MR with 3250lbs, on 12.7' Brembo rotors and 4-piston calipers front, and 12' Brembo rotors and 2-piston calipers rear. Made an average of 112ft. Offical reports of 110ft.

So for the FRS, a average of 115ft stock compared to those 2 performance models, you can see that those factory brakes are holding up VERY well. And all you have to do is improve it, is pads, fluid, lines, ducting, tires. and im betting that you would be averaging 110-112ft with very minimal fade. All on factory equipment that is easy to maintain. and mind you that also those 2 cars are already track ready.

Listen to this man.

For 90% of the people out there the stock system is absolutely fine. Even though we love to sell BBK's.

We're running ours with just lines, pads, fluid, tires and perfect for what we need right now. Pads make all the difference in the world.

[Memphis]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Consider this.

We've been running road courses with nothing but good fluid and race pads, and haven't had any problems. Here's a video of us at ACS; we're braking from ~130mph to ~45 entering turn 3. You can see the shift light in 5th in the banking

I think that a BBK is overkill until you learn the limits of your car and are actually experiencing problems. Stick to just good pads and fluid.

135? How long is that straight? Or are you turbo'd. MIR has a .7 mile straight and I was only able to get up to 115-116. Maybe because of the turn I was coming out of. I dunno. Im sure a manual in the straight would be faster but I would not think by that much.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Memphis

135? How long is that straight? Or are you turbo'd. MIR has a .7 mile straight and I was only able to get up to 115-116. Maybe because of the turn I was coming out of. I dunno. Im sure a manual in the straight would be faster but I would not think by that much.

I apologize for getting a bit off-topic.

Our car is N/A, and stock power.

From the exit of T21 to the entry of T1 (front straight) is about 0.6 miles. I exit T21 at about 85 mph, and am WOT to the braking zone of T3. Using the NASCAR line allows me to to hit the limiter in 5th before having to brake for T3. T16-21 are subjective as to how they're coned, and in our video, they are coned "tight". However, the car has enough grip (and not enough power) that I'm able to go WOT from T13 all the way to T3, with just a hint of countersteer exiting T20. Our setup has changed since the video was taken, and I'm confident that I'd be able to shave off at least a second off of our lap time, and possibly warrant a shift into 6th before T3.

The BRZ is exceptionally aerodynamic, and picks up speed very quickly for only having 200hp once you're over 100 mph. As a point of reference, my S2k exits T17 5mph faster, and has a ~55-60 hp advantage, but hits the same Vmax going into T1. However, it has more power (and more tire), and doesn't scrub speed going through T1/2, whereas the BRZ does.

The video was taken with 215/40/17 Star Specs (200TW tires), and a Berk Muffler Delete.

We'll be back at ACS for 86Fest on 10/7/2012, and be giving ride-alongs

[RaceTech]

That track seems very similar to Miami Homestead. Great analysis.

[Memphis]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I apologize for getting a bit off-topic.

Our car is N/A, and stock power.

From the exit of T17 to the entry of T1 (front straight) is about 0.6 miles. I exit T17 at about 85 mph, and am WOT to the braking zone of T3. Using the NASCAR line allows me to to hit the limiter in 5th before having to brake for T3. T15,16,17 are subjective as to how they're coned, and in our video, they are coned "tight". However, the car has enough grip (and not enough power) that I'm able to go WOT from T12 all the way to T3, with just a hint of countersteer exiting T17. Our setup has changed since the video was taken, and I'm confident that I'd be able to shave off at least a second off of our lap time, and possibly warrant a shift into 6th before T3.

The BRZ is exceptionally aerodynamic, and picks up speed very quickly for only having 200hp once you're over 100 mph. As a point of reference, my S2k exits T17 5mph faster, and has a ~55-60 hp advantage, but hits the same Vmax going into T1. However, it has more power (and more tire), and doesn't scrub speed going through T1/2, whereas the BRZ does.

The video was taken with 215/40/17 Star Specs (200TW tires), and a Berk Muffler Delete.

We'll be back at ACS for 86Fest on 10/7/2012, and be giving ride-alongs

Aha. I see. The track I was on I was coming out of the corner leading onto the straight at about 55-60. That explains it.

[celica73]

Originally Posted by wootwoot

I am considering putting a turbo in my FRS. This is really a street car primarily, but will see a few HPDE per year. I am concerned the stock breaks will not be up to the task. Even with upgraded pads and lines... I am not sure the brakes will avoid serious fade during HPDE track sessions. Seeing as this is mostly a street car, however, I am not sure a 2-3K big brake kit is worth it (or in the cards financially). Is there anything in between? I was thinking a STI Brembo or Evo disc and caliper upgrade would be a good option, but only one guy I know of on the forum is running that set up (with good results I may add). Any advice would be appreciated.

Turbo, HPDE? I give you 3 laps at the HPDE before you park the car. I would expect some reliability issues for the first few events. Stock brakes are fine for HPDE to start. Get some good pads.

Just because you have a turbo doesn't mean that you *need* to use 100% of it's capability on track. Look at the letters HPDE

High
Performance
Drivers
Education

Notice no "R" in there for "race." There is no trophy.

That said, I wouldn't bother spending more than it takes to get STi brakes on there.

Scott