Adjustable Camber Arms vs. Whiteline Camber Bushings

[Thatruth2001]

I just picked up a set of whiteline bushings at PRE Racing yesterday for $160 bucks to correct my rear camber issue then had the car realigned to address the new tires installed over the weekend. Anticipate approximately 2 hours of labor costs for installation. PRE offered to do the install for $85 an hour for labor, but I chose to have another group install the bushings. Note that I only did the Eibach prokit lowering springs.

[Borden]

Originally Posted by Thatruth2001

I just picked up a set of whiteline bushings at PRE Racing yesterday for $160 bucks to correct my rear camber issue then had the car realigned to address the new tires installed over the weekend. Anticipate approximately 2 hours of labor costs for installation. PRE offered to do the install for $85 an hour for labor, but I chose to have another group install the bushings. Note that I only did the Eibach prokit lowering springs.

May I ask what's your before&after camber?

[BRZranger]

[quote=digital_assassin;432124]

Originally Posted by GC_Adam

I'm gonna go talk with a "performance" alignment shop during lunch and see what they recommend. They will be doing the alignment and corner balance so I guess they should know if there is enough adjustment in the other components as well as provide an estimate for bushing install. I'll report back in an hour or so.

Unless your tracking the car, and even then, I don't recommend the corner balance. I got mine done and I think a bit of a waste of $. The car was already near balanced since it was lowered evenly, but they balanced it anyways, which brought me to a "perfect" 50/50 cross weight. Especially if you're changing suspension heights and parts, it will change the corners. I went with the performance alignment also.

I am about 1.5" lower with -1.5/-2.5 degrees camber front/rear. I would prefer less rear neg camber, near a -1.5 deg.

[digital_assassin]

[quote=brzranger;437036]

Originally Posted by digital_assassin

Unless your tracking the car, and even then, I don't recommend the corner balance. I got mine done and I think a bit of a waste of $. The car was already near balanced since it was lowered evenly, but they balanced it anyways, which brought me to a "perfect" 50/50 cross weight. Especially if you're changing suspension heights and parts, it will change the corners. I went with the performance alignment also.

I am about 1.5" lower with -1.5/-2.5 degrees camber front/rear. I would prefer less rear neg camber, near a -1.5 deg.

Do you have any corners on the car that are noticeably at different heights now or is it still pretty uniform? They are only charging $100 and I do plan on tracking the car next spring but if the gains aren't that great and it's not aesthetically right I'll skip it.

[BRZranger]

Nearly equal ride height on the CORNERS before and after. If you are dropped evenly, save the $100, IMO.

If you are going to stay at a suspension setting or ride height, maybe do the corners once and call it good.

Hindsight, I wouldn't do the corners. Unless you are tracking more than 50% or have a lot of expendable cash B-)

[FT-86 SpeedFactory]

All depends on what you are after. The arms will give you the best adjustment out there period and there are aftermarket toe/trailing arms along with control arms.

As far as corner balancing goes, that can be debated.

[digital_assassin]

@FT-86 SpeedFactory - I'm going with the arms. Just deciding between Cusco or GTSPEC. If I go GTSPEC I will probably just wait until the new production run which happens in about 4-6 weeks from what they tell me.

[SpeedR]

Who is going to tune your suspension?
All too often people put on parts for a look and damage the dynamics of a car.
It’s like putting a bunch of parts on your engine with no tune eventuality things are just not going to work right and you need to know what you are doing to get back to a point where parts are working for you not against you.
Just something to think about as Rear Control Arms can dramatically change the handling of a car.
If you do this I would go with GTSPEC as they seem interested in helping and could give advice on setup.

[digital_assassin]

Originally Posted by SpeedR

Who is going to tune your suspension?
All too often people put on parts for a look and damage the dynamics of a car.
It’s like putting a bunch of parts on your engine with no tune eventuality things are just not going to work right and you need to know what you are doing to get back to a point where parts are working for you not against you.
Just something to think about as Rear Control Arms can dramatically change the handling of a car.
If you do this I would go with GTSPEC as they seem interested in helping and could give advice on setup.

It's going to AR Auto Service in Lake Oswego Oregon. They are a very good race inspired shop. There are a few other members on here that have installed rear control arms and it's working out fine for them. I'm looking to correct camber, not add some crazy -3 or more to get even lower and flush. I'm currently too low and will be bringing the car back up to about a 1.5" drop all around and then dialing in the alignment. I'm guessing that I have anywhere from -2.5 to -3 degrees at my current ride height and that's just too much. I think I also read somewhere, I may be mistaken though, that the bushing kit can only add camber and is not meant to dial it out.

[SpeedR]

Good glad you thought about it, sadly other often don’t.

Did not mean to take this thread off track…

[digital_assassin]

@SpeedR - all valid points for this thread.

[BRZranger]

Originally Posted by SpeedR

Who is going to tune your suspension?
All too often people put on parts for a look and damage the dynamics of a car.
It’s like putting a bunch of parts on your engine with no tune eventuality things are just not going to work right and you need to know what you are doing to get back to a point where parts are working for you not against you.
Just something to think about as Rear Control Arms can dramatically change the handling of a car.
If you do this I would go with GTSPEC as they seem interested in helping and could give advice on setup.

I dropped my car initially about 2", raised to about 1.5", got an alignment and corners; I realized i was changing the suspension geometry and rear neg camber more than I really wanted to.

To fix this, i would need to get some type of camber adjustment and roll center adjustment + labor to install + another alignment = $$$ and time.

I really like the stock handling and I really like how my ride is right now (except for -2.5 rear camber). I am considering raising it slightly to a 1" drop to minimize the affects on the geometry and camber w/o requiring more aftermarket parts = less $$$ and less $$$

If I had to do it all over again? I would still go w/ KW V3's and the wheels, drop to 1", get performance alignment and be done w/ the suspension side of it.

[BRZranger]

Originally Posted by digital_assassin

It's going to AR Auto Service in Lake Oswego Oregon. They are a very good race inspired shop. There are a few other members on here that have installed rear control arms and it's working out fine for them. I'm looking to correct camber, not add some crazy -3 or more to get even lower and flush. I'm currently too low and will be bringing the car back up to about a 1.5" drop all around and then dialing in the alignment. I'm guessing that I have anywhere from -2.5 to -3 degrees at my current ride height and that's just too much. I think I also read somewhere, I may be mistaken though, that the bushing kit can only add camber and is not meant to dial it out.

Why do you think -2.5 deg camber is too much? In regards to tire wear, supposedly (I'm no expert), it's toe that significantly affects tire wear; a good alignment will fix that. I would prefer more camber in front (-2.5 vs my -1.5) and less rear (-1.5 vs -2.5), but it's not a deal breaker.

[Borden]

Originally Posted by digital_assassin

It's going to AR Auto Service in Lake Oswego Oregon. They are a very good race inspired shop. There are a few other members on here that have installed rear control arms and it's working out fine for them. I'm looking to correct camber, not add some crazy -3 or more to get even lower and flush. I'm currently too low and will be bringing the car back up to about a 1.5" drop all around and then dialing in the alignment. I'm guessing that I have anywhere from -2.5 to -3 degrees at my current ride height and that's just too much. I think I also read somewhere, I may be mistaken though, that the bushing kit can only add camber and is not meant to dial it out.

Imo, for modding, we MUST alway know what r we exactly doing. On this matter, we should not rely on anyone else, no matter how professional or how kind they are, because experts can only suggest how to do sth, as to why you wanna do that, they will generally respect your will.

For your current issue, I believe you are not very sure about what you want. You said you may go tracking some day, but you want to reduce some camber from your stock arms, that looks not correct, not correct at all. Usually stock camber is far from sufficient for tracking, and aftermarket arms or bushings are usually for increasing negtive camber, so I really think it's a double waste to use these kits to reduce camber, for money and camber. It's a sign that you have already done sth wrong.

With the stock ride height, the lower control arms are pointing down from inside to outside, so when cornering, body rolls, then outside of your car sinks, then the lower control arm will push the low side of your wheel out, to automatically gain some negtive camber for your outside wheels, that's very good and useful.

But after lowered ride height too much, your lower control arms may be already level or even pointing up, so when cornering, the body roll will make the lower arm pull the low side of your wheel in, to gain some positive camber, that's bad! More worse is, when standstill, your negtive camber is too much yet, cause you have used that dynamic camber in advance by lowering, then you wants to reduce it, that's your current situation.

In short, don't reduce stock camber, if even the stock camber is too much for you, then you must have done something wrong.