Brand new FR-S...Brand new problems

[Ccecilia]

I already have 4 months with my ultramarine FR-S and there is no issues at all!!! Love it !

[HunterGreene]

Originally Posted by jeebus

Dude. You installed a custom turbo kit. Your warranty IS and should be hosed. You pay to play.

Originally Posted by Synack

lol I've mentioned this tens of thousands of times in my posts and to my tuner. I know this. It never hurts to try though. Just like asking a girl out. Worst answer is always no.

As has been mentioned before, a turbo DOES NOT void your warranty, you just have to prove that the turbo couldn't have caused the problem. The fact that a bunch of N/A drivers are having the same problem (and that its documented), would definitely work in your favor.

And I'm between 500-600 miles and have a road trip down to Cincinnati this weekend *crosses fingers*

[raul]

Originally Posted by SUB-FT86

How did you put that much miles on the car in like 2 months????

Same way I broke my car in in 10 days. :P

[frsinpa]

These cars seem to be plagued with problems, which is disappointing considering it isn't a cheap car like a Honda Civic or a Hyundai accent.

When I dropped $27K on this car, I thought that quality would be a given since Toyota and Subaru have a reputation for delivering quality products.

So far my door rattles and both of my tail lights have gotten water stuck inside them. Minor issues to some, but it's really frustrating to me when you consider how these problems definitely should have been caught during the quality control process.

It doesn't take a genius to figure out that a tail light is defective and lets in water.. or that a door shouldn't rattle before you even hit the 1,000 mile mark.

And then to hear about engine problems? It's very disappointing to hear that you are having major issues. Hope everything gets resolved man.

[jeebus]

Originally Posted by HunterGreene

As has been mentioned before, a turbo DOES NOT void your warranty, you just have to prove that the turbo couldn't have caused the problem. The fact that a bunch of N/A drivers are having the same problem (and that its documented), would definitely work in your favor.

And I'm between 500-600 miles and have a road trip down to Cincinnati this weekend *crosses fingers*

LOL. Yes, a turbo does. You guys can think positively about it all you want. It won't likely void warranty on any suspension components, or interior. But with something as extreme as a turbo kit on a naturally aspirated car, with custom tuning, etc....yes, the motor, transmission, rear end, drive shaft, axles....that warranty is as good as gone. Would they still handle TSB and recalled items relating to those pieces? Possibly. But nothing past that.

[HunterGreene]

Originally Posted by jeebus

LOL. Yes, a turbo does. You guys can think positively about it all you want. It won't likely void warranty on any suspension components, or interior. But with something as extreme as a turbo kit on a naturally aspirated car, with custom tuning, etc....yes, the motor, transmission, rear end, drive shaft, axles....that warranty is as good as gone. Would they still handle TSB and recalled items relating to those pieces? Possibly. But nothing past that.

You are 100% right, I was just making the point that the warranty is never completely voided. :happy0180:

[jmaryt]

Originally Posted by whiteout fr-s

Pretty common problem, nothing to do with the "ecu's" though. Look into idle problem. Mine actually caused catastrophic engine failure and resulted in having to get a whole new car. Mines the most extreme case though, but many are having the same problem. It is related to the vvti system.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

hot damn! this is disconcerting! japanese quality! these type
of issues?..(w.t.f!)

[Sigh-on-Rice]

Originally Posted by Synack

Define idle dip?

Mine does a small occasional dip. But it's far from sounding like the motor is about to die or anything.

Idling RPM drops lower for a moment and repeats that time to time.
Mine doesn't dip at all. It stays at 600 steady.

[Sigh-on-Rice]

Originally Posted by BuBlake

I have my vin number right here, but i'm confused... What digits do I look at to determine if it's in the 7000's? Thanks.

Last 4 digits. When it goes over 9999, then last 5 digits.

[BuBlake]

Originally Posted by Sigh-on-Rice

Last 4 digits. When it goes over 9999, then last 5 digits.

Cool. Then that 7000's theory may be right. Mine is #5476 and has no problems that I know of. It does idle around 650, but I never notice it bogging or stumbling. The "bird chirp" sound at idle is audible with the windows down after it heats up, but I guess that's just because it has solid lifters or something else that comes with the territory.

[Synack]

Originally Posted by BuBlake

Cool. Then that 7000's theory may be right. Mine is #5476 and has no problems that I know of. It does idle around 650, but I never notice it bogging or stumbling. The "bird chirp" sound at idle is audible with the windows down after it heats up, but I guess that's just because it has solid lifters or something else that comes with the territory.

Yeah mine's 5293 and nothing.

[HunterGreene]

# 9022 here. Still nervous, though.

[jarviz]

Originally Posted by frsinpa

When I dropped $27K on this car, I thought that quality would be a given since Toyota and Subaru have a reputation for delivering quality products.

27K only covers the performance and aesthetics of the car. Ride quality not included.

[HunterGreene]

Originally Posted by frsinpa

These cars seem to be plagued with problems, which is disappointing considering it isn't a cheap car like a Honda Civic or a Hyundai accent.

When I dropped $27K on this car, I thought that quality would be a given since Toyota and Subaru have a reputation for delivering quality products.

So far my door rattles and both of my tail lights have gotten water stuck inside them. Minor issues to some, but it's really frustrating to me when you consider how these problems definitely should have been caught during the quality control process.

It doesn't take a genius to figure out that a tail light is defective and lets in water.. or that a door shouldn't rattle before you even hit the 1,000 mile mark.

Now you have me curious. When did the door start rattling (miles)? When did you first notice tailight condensation? What is the serial # of your car? I only ask this, because I have almost 600 miles on my car and have noticed none of the problems you are noting.