Improper spring installation warning

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by MattR

Is this tool something that comes with the Pro-Kits upon purchase, or something I should be on the lookout for next time I'm browsing tools?

It does not come with it and if you are using hand tools you shouldn't need it (I wouldn't think) since you'll be holding the shock shaft with an allen key, assuming you have the right tool or a gearwrench socket set (or other pass through style socket set).

The problem described here is when an impact gun is used, which can spin the damper shaft at high speeds.

The tool itself it on loan, so I can't describe it in detail yet but from other homemade versions I've seen it's just two pieces of steel with a hole cut for the shaft, and then a softer material that won't scratch the shaft around the opening which is then tightened around the shaft. Look up Race Tech Shaft holder (yeah yeah...) on google.

Anyways, I'll post pics of the tool monday night during the install we do on my car, and I'll follow that up a little later (when I have time to write it up, could be a day to a week later since I'll be on vacation during that time) with street impressions, track datalogging (stock and with springs), etc.

Jackson can correct any of the info above.

[Racecomp Engineering]

You can also use a strap wrench to keep the shaft stationary.

- Andrew

[Jackson]

Originally Posted by MattR

Thanks, Jackson. Loving the old school Powell avvy by the way :happy0180:

Thanks! I just noticed you're from Wilmington. I used to live in Jacksonville a long time ago and I skated the Middle School Skatepark a few times a week that was just north of Wilmington.

[camelflage]

if you did not secure the shaft when taking the top nut off, you probably destroyed the shocks.

[Pekingduck]

I had Sportline (prototype) on my car and I didn't have issue with my car, but of course the Eibach technician put them on. I also know since the car is lowered I have to be more careful with harsh bumps, and irregularities with road conditions. I only had the Sportline (prototype) on my car for 2k miles before i switch setup. I seen Eibach facility and they not playing around, they have actual Mechanical Engineers and Technician, Testing machine, shock dyno, machines to compress the springs, and a bunch of other tools to design and setup products before they go out on the market. Even though I am their test car, I had other company offered their products to me, and I preferred sticking with Eibach knowing they have actual engineers designing and making their products in USA.

[Justin.b]

I just want to say thanks to the vendors for participating and being informative and helpful instead of defensive.

-Justin

[ultra]

So if one doesn't have a strap wrench on hand and just has regular hand tools lying around, how does one go about installing springs/top hats without screwing anything up?

I noticed Dave ROR mentioning something about a socket or Allen bolt. Can you give me a tip as to where you grip the shaft or whatnot?

Also seems pretty plain that an impact gun is a no-no, but won't trying to tighten/untighten the top nuts also rotate the shaft?

I'm just curious whether this is a pretty straightforward thing I can get my local tire shop/general auto mechanic to do or whether I need to wait for my alignment & chassis guru to show up (dude's put of town for another month).


Edit: here's some pics of the stock shocks & Pro Kit springs from DarrenDriven's review thread in the main suspension topic:




Front Spring comparison with stock on top and Eibach Pro-Kit on bottom


Rear spring comparison with Eibach Pro-Kit on top and stock on bottom


So where do you grip/secure the shafts while installing the top nuts?

Sorry if I'm a lil slow and missing something potentially obvious.

[Opie]

My Pro-kit is on the way, doubt I will have any issues like these. I've installed springs on several Scoobies withou any problems...

Originally Posted by alexmotrix

So don't put the blame on eibach that fast, you should remember this car is a subaru with all the reliability problems that come with it...

This is the funniest thing I think I've ever read on this forum Reliablility problems from a Subaru, hahahahahaha.

[xwd]

Originally Posted by ultra

So if one doesn't have a strap wrench on hand and just has regular hand tools lying around, how does one go about installing springs/top hats without screwing anything up?

I noticed Dave ROR mentioning something about a socket or Allen bolt. Can you give me a tip as to where you grip the shaft or whatnot?

Also seems pretty plain that an impact gun is a no-no, but won't trying to tighten/untighten the top nuts also rotate the shaft?

I'm just curious whether this is a pretty straightforward thing I can get my local tire shop/general auto mechanic to do or whether I need to wait for my alignment & chassis guru to show up (dude's put of town for another month).


Edit: here's some pics of the stock shocks & Pro Kit springs from DarrenDriven's review thread in the main suspension topic:


So where do you grip/secure the shafts while installing the top nuts?

Sorry if I'm a lil slow and missing something potentially obvious.

The very top of the strut shaft has a spot to insert an Allen key to keep the shaft from spinning. You need what is called a pass through socket so you can put the socket on the top nut while putting the Allen wrench through the middle. Or like racecomp said a strap wrench works pretty well too. The issues in this thread were from just using an impact to remove the top nut which is fairly common but if it doesn't zip it off fast enough the shaft might end up spinning.

You can get a pass through socket set from harbor freight for pretty cheap or just get the driver and specific socket.

[sajonf]

Originally Posted by dwx

The very top of the strut shaft has a spot to insert an Allen key to keep the shaft from spinning. You need what is called a pass through socket so you can put the socket on the top nut while putting the Allen wrench through the middle. Or like racecomp said a strap wrench works pretty well too. The issues in this thread were from just using an impact to remove the top nut which is fairly common but if it doesn't zip it off fast enough the shaft might end up spinning.

You can get a pass through socket set from harbor freight for pretty cheap or just get the driver and specific socket.

Couldnt you just use a standard wrench?

[ultra]

Originally Posted by dwx

The very top of the strut shaft has a spot to insert an Allen key to keep the shaft from spinning.

Thanks for that! Just went outside, popped my hood and removed the rubber cover on the front shock top mount...Allen pattern right there.

Big sigh of relief, now I know what to keep an eye out for.

[xwd]

Originally Posted by sajonf

Couldnt you just use a standard wrench?

If you look at the picture the nut sits inside the top hat. You could probably get at it with a deep offset wrench but not a standard one.

[sajonf]

Originally Posted by dwx

If you look at the picture the nut sits inside the top hat. You could probably get at it with a deep offset wrench but not a standard one.

Yeah I just saw that is it recessed. Looks like a trip to the local harbor freight for me!

[M1K3]

Here's a good tool set for this job: Craftsman Max Axess