What are people using for oil?

[07stealth350z]

I live in Palm Springs, the temperature out here is 100-120 degrees Farenheit on average. Which oil/viscosity do you recommend? I want to protect the BRZ from wear as best as possible.

[Nitro22]

Using Redline oil 0w20. I've done a track day and an autocross with the new oil and the engine is running strong.

[chulooz]

Originally Posted by Nitro22

Using Redline oil 0w20. I've done a track day and an autocross with the new oil and the engine is running strong.

Any EOAs?

[Phaedrus29]

Originally Posted by Opie

It's the Subaru specified oil for the new FB engines, made for Subaru by Idemitsu: http://drive.subaru.com/spr11_whatmakes.aspx

OK but, is it good (for the BRZ)?

[jliltd]

Originally Posted by chulooz

Misinformation and poor example with the Cossie.

I don't know where the misinformation is. The oil system is designed from the get go for specific viscosity range. The galleries and oil pump were fine tuned for this. While I agree going from 0W-20 to 5W-30 isn't a huge difference once somebody starts going extreme like using a 15W they are so far out of the design criteria used for start-up oil viscosity they run the risk of having cavitation in their oil pump at precisely the most important time -- during starting. Subaru's engineers were very specific about what type and weight of oil to use to match their design. Anyting else if "off design".

My experience has been with traditional diesel engines (15W40), piston aircraft (ashless dispersant oil and loose-tolerance air cooled engines) and newer high-efficiency automobile engines such as our beloved boxer. I live in a hot desert and gone are the days of putting good old 15W-whatever into anything that drives up without running into trouble. I have a 2007 Tundra that specifies similar oil (0w30) and I have gotten into trouble trying to second-guess that for our hot and dusty conditions.

I won't stray far from the factory suggestions ever again.

[chulooz]

Originally Posted by jliltd

I don't know where the misinformation is. The oil system is designed from the get go for specific viscosity range. The galleries and oil pump were fine tuned for this. While I agree going from 0W-20 to 5W-30 isn't a huge difference once somebody starts going extreme like using a 15W they are so far out of the design criteria used for start-up oil viscosity they run the risk of having cavitation in their oil pump at precisely the most important time -- during starting. Subaru's engineers were very specific about what type and weight of oil to use to match their design. Anyting else if "off design".

My experience has been with traditional diesel engines (15W40), piston aircraft (ashless dispersant oil and loose-tolerance air cooled engines) and newer high-efficiency automobile engines such as our beloved boxer. I live in a hot desert and gone are the days of putting good old 15W-whatever into anything that drives up without running into trouble. I have a 2007 Tundra that specifies similar oil (0w30) and I have gotten into trouble trying to second-guess that for our hot and dusty conditions.

I won't stray far from the factory suggestions ever again.

5w30 is a great idea for certain applications, it has been said before not every decision is made based on maximum performance. Regulations can get in the way.

[jdmitr]

Originally Posted by chulooz

5w30 is a great idea for certain applications, it has been said before not every decision is made based on maximum performance. Regulations can get in the way.

Maybe you should look at how oil works and then you may understand why I say what I did.

Here is a little lesson for all:

The way oil ratings are determined is based on viscosity (thickness at a certain temperature) and temperature = xxwxx

The first number is the viscosity of the oil when "cold" ...let's be clear this doesn't just mean that it is "cold" outside but it means when the oil is cooled like when setting overnight and being allowed to cool from a lack of heat derived from friction. Most modern oils are not going to vary too significantly unless under very cold conditions (below freezing). Conventional oils will thicken at a higher rate the colder they get then synthetics. For instance most conventional oils will nearly be solid at -45° when a synthetic of the same viscosity will still be able to flow. So the lower the first number the easier it will flow at lower temperatures or when cool. The reason why there is no more "climate oil charts" in manuals is that the quality of oil has changed and average ambient temp does not play as much of a role in an oils "cooled" state.

The second number is for the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature (212°). There is a very big lesson to be learned here. Nearly all water cooled engines are designed to run up to this temp and our modern water cooled engines are very efficient at cooling. The difference is how fast it heats up...but understand that if the cooling system is operating correctly then it is going to stay in this range whether in death valley in the summer or alaska in the winter.

Oil viscosity is measured in cst. Lets say that 0w20 oil has a viscosity or thickness of 40cst at 65° F or "cooled". This is a full synthetic and its cst wont change that significantly at 35°. Lets say that the engine is designed with tighter tolerances and requires a cst of 8 when at 212°. Because of the tighter tolerances the lubricating system is designed for its oil pressure to be at a specific pressure based on the viscosity of the oil at start up and at temp.

So lets compare using 5w30 syn. Lets say in its cooled state it flows at 60cst at 65° in its cooled state and once up to temp its viscosity (thickness) is 10cst.

What is going to happen when you use a higher viscosity oil on startup and at operating temperature? This means that in its cooled state it is thicker and produces more pressure. Oil pressure is engineered to specific specs generally 10 psi per 1000rpm. The higher viscosity oil you use on startup and at temp will do many things. It causes more oil pressure because the pump has a harder time pumping the oil. So this is going to cause more wear on start up and at temp it is going to cause higher oil pressure then optimal and this is going to cause more friction and heat. Running a higher viscosity oil then the engine is intended is just going to cause negative reactions in the engine with the possibility of shorter engine life. It has been proven time and again that this higher viscosity of oil you run then the engine is designed for not only creates more heat from friction (friction of the oil being forced into the various orifaces in the engine then they are designed for) and higher then normal oil pressure but more centralized heat (at high wear points) but this all equates to the engine working harder which means more drag, less hp, less mpg. Running higher viscosity oil does not protect any better then the oil your engine is designed for!

[chulooz]

Originally Posted by jdmitr

Maybe you should look at how oil works and then you may understand why I say what I did.

Here is a little lesson for all:

I dont care about your lesson, you still vaguely ignore the main subject of a mildly different viscosity. 5w30 is a safe application for this motor: now do you agree or disagree? One answer is wrong.

[Nitro22]

Originally Posted by chulooz

Any EOAs?

No additives.

[FRSCoupe]

Amsoil OE is a cheaper oil for you to drain from 3500-7500 miles to keep warranty intact, because you drain it sooner they put less additives in it and at a lower price point for more economical oil changes.. As you see the price is very good I wouldn't hesistate to use it for a car that doesn't see the track.

[Skye]

Anyone know if the factory uses different oils in engine and trans specifically for break in?

[tonystewart]

5w30 Pennzoil Ultra

[JohnATL]

Decided to go with the OEM route. Went to the local Subaru dealer and bought the package, minus the labor, for $45. It included 6 quarts of 0w-20 synthetic, oil filter and a crush ring.

[Do Boy]

I use ams oil 0w20