Accelerated Performance 2013 BRZ - FRS Turbo Kit Designing

[Don@Accelerated]

Originally Posted by Warex

I'm sure this has been addressed but are you guys only adding fuel through the port injectors? Has the DI system been addressed yet?

We have full control of both port and direct injection. Not using the direct injection is a mistake from our viewing angle.

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by Don@Accelerated

Previously I had 4psi at 2800rpm. The dynojet 24" roller does not have the weighr resistance like the car. We are actually allowing the turbo to come on a bit smoother so that we do not have to much torque down low on the stock engine. All I would need to do is put a 10psi wastegate spring in it and it would come on much harder. I want to know what this will do reliably. We could always crank on it, but its not what we were after. I could post up a final run count, but i'm sure its around 170 Dyno pulls now since turbo.

Don

Oh is that right? Any plans on electronic wastegate control? If the 5psi wastegate is at work at low rpm, that seems like it would help to have slightly higher A/R turbine housing but fully closed wastegate. Something like that, to increase the turbine's efficiency a little, and have less exhaust bypassing via wastegate. Or I could just be misunderstanding and totally talking out of my ass.

[Coheed]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Oh is that right? Any plans on electronic wastegate control? If the 5psi wastegate is at work at low rpm, that seems like it would help to have slightly higher A/R turbine housing but fully closed wastegate. Something like that, to increase the turbine's efficiency a little, and have less exhaust bypassing via wastegate. Or I could just be misunderstanding and totally talking out of my ass.

They are already running the .86ar housing in a tial vband setup. Not going to get much freer flowing than that on this frame of turbo.

The torque coming on smooth has to help with knock resistance on the low-end, where knock seems to be more of an issue. I am interested in how quickly the boost could ramp up on this compression, but if concerns about the engine's strength arise I can see why it is toned down a bit.

But perhaps things will change when the rich guys get a hold of this engine and push it to the limit.

[xcelir8brz]

Amazing progression with this project.

Can't wait to see the final outcome on an Automatic!

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by Coheed

They are already running the .86ar housing in a tial vband setup. Not going to get much freer flowing than that on this frame of turbo.

The torque coming on smooth has to help with knock resistance on the low-end, where knock seems to be more of an issue. I am interested in how quickly the boost could ramp up on this compression, but if concerns about the engine's strength arise I can see why it is toned down a bit.

But perhaps things will change when the rich guys get a hold of this engine and push it to the limit.

Oops, did not notice that, thanks. Still, some kind of non-passive wastegate control would be cool As far as knock resistance goes, when you have boost I think that can actually make things a little easier because if you can get the cam overlap right then you get a much better scavenging effect, which will reduce temperatures. But getting the cam overlap just right is hard.

[Coheed]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Oops, did not notice that, thanks. Still, some kind of non-passive wastegate control would be cool As far as knock resistance goes, when you have boost I think that can actually make things a little easier because if you can get the cam overlap right then you get a much better scavenging effect, which will reduce temperatures. But getting the cam overlap just right is hard.

Exactly. Its a balancing act between backpressure and overlap. I always built in a boost spike on my setups to keep the wg closed as long as possible, but I agree its not always the best option.

[Synack]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

You can e-tune with John. Get a decent base map, then datalog, send, get new flash, reflash, datalog, send, get new flash, etc, etc, etc same as your tuner, but John's basemap will make the process a LOT faster and safer, plus he clearly knows this system very well now.

Now if you went Pro EFI.... :P

I was very close to pulling the standalone trigger.... Decided against it though as I'm not trying to get big numbers or do anything crazy with my car. Just a nice elegant drift/show car that can also be a reliable DD with good gas mileage. It is my DD after all.

[Coheed]

Originally Posted by Synack

I was very close to pulling the standalone trigger.... Decided against it though as I'm not trying to get big numbers or do anything crazy with my car. Just a nice elegant drift/show car that can also be a reliable DD with good gas mileage. It is my DD after all.

This is the smart route anyway. A lot of factory computers have capabilities to do 90% of what a standalone can. And you keep the vehicle road-legal in the process.

[knapper]

Originally Posted by TouchMyHonda

Anyone complaining about price has simply never turboed a not turbo car or built a car up really.

That is a bit of an uneducated blanket statement. I have owned/created several turboed vehicles throughout my driving life and not once have I spent over $2000 for parts, the labor I did on my own, and tune never more than $1000.

In my opinion, $8000-$10,000 to turbo this car with a basic kit ... is not only too rich for my blood, but only hitting the minority. And to state that having a reliable good quality turbo kit for $2000-$3000 is not possible, is just plain ignorant.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by TouchMyHonda

Anyone complaining about price has simply never turboed a not turbo car or built a car up really.

... without a junkyard/custom setup.

[bakerr6]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

... without a junkyard/custom setup.

my total kit for my stang, with the tuning option came out right around $3500. I know that's probably high for a car that is so mass-produced, but it ws completely custom, and ceramic coated. That also included the tune.

It is possible, if you have the will, skill and time

[.Alex]

Originally Posted by knapper

That is a bit of an uneducated blanket statement. I have owned/created several turboed vehicles throughout my driving life and not once have I spent over $2000 for parts, the labor I did on my own, and tune never more than $1000.

In my opinion, $8000-$10,000 to turbo this car with a basic kit ... is not only too rich for my blood, but only hitting the minority. And to state that having a reliable good quality turbo kit for $2000-$3000 is not possible, is just plain ignorant.

You took the time and $$$ to R&D a turbo kit from the ground up?

It cost alot of money to do this kind of thing and companies have to recoup what they've spent along with making a profit.

I agree an $8k-$10k turbo kit would be too expensive, but charging $5-$6k seems very reasonable imo.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by .Alex

You took the time and $$$ to R&D a turbo kit from the ground up?

It cost alot of money to do this kind of thing and companies have to recoup what they've spent along with making a profit.

I agree an $8k-$10k turbo kit would be too expensive, but charging $5-$6k seems very reasonable imo.

It's normal for a kit, but you can put together your own setup for less, but yes, you have to deal with fabrication, fitment, etc.

Part of what you are paying for is a sorted kit that requires no (or little) modification.

[SnapOv3st3r]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

A good clue would be how much boost there is at highway cruising engine speeds. Now since their dyno run starts at ~2500rpm it's a little hard to tell, since the transient response of the turbo is an issue, but it looks like the turbo doesn't really "spool up" until you hit well over 3500rpm.

Any fuel economy loss at steady low load cruising conditions will be due to the turbine adding restriction to the exhaust, which doesn't seem like it's going to be a big deal. Most turbo engines "spool" well before this one does.

Under normal acceleration, engine efficiency will drop a little bit when you use boost, but again it appears there is very little boost below 3000rpm so probably not going to impact fuel economy much.

Best if they can tell you how much boost it builds in the lower engine speed ranges, and if they have any exhaust pressure readings (probably not going to be a significant increase).

You can drive to 6k rpms and still not spool a turbo. Exhaust gases drive the turbine, not rpms. There is VAC and there is Boost.