Lost key fob - What are my options?

[DC2R]

I've managed to lose both my key fobs for my 2014 FR-S. I am currently using the valet key. The dealer wants $200 for a key fob and $200 to program it. Are there any cheaper solutions?

I am also interested in getting a remote start system at some point. Could I just use the lock/unlock and trunk pop functions from an aftermarket remote?

[Luns]

There are mobile locksmiths who will do all of this for much less than the dealer, but the hard part may be getting an appropriate blank key for them to use - our cars have a unique transponder not shared by other Toyotas even though the key outwardly looks identical to other cars. They can try using the blanks they have and it's on them if it doesn't work but OTOH if it does work, you're also paying them to take that chance.

What I've done has been to buy two used keys off of eBay, and removed the transponder and remote control from them to put in new key shells. Given you still have your valet key, the new keys can be programmed by anybody with an appropriate scan tool, and any decent locksmith can cut the key blade for you. (*)

Note that decent locksmiths may be hard to find. I know that locally, some old formerly reputable businesses have been sold to new owners who don't know what they're doing. You don't want them to do a straight copy of the valet key - you will end up with another valet key which won't open the trunk physically, though maybe you don't mind that. Ideally you'd find someone who knows how to read your existing key blank (Toyota cuts are easily read by eye) and can cut a new key from code.

[smackrel]

Do you happen to know what type or brand of scanner will program a key fob?


Asking for a friend that has a spare that came from eBay that needs programming and local locksmiths refuse to even try it.

[Luns]

Originally Posted by smackrel

Do you happen to know what type or brand of scanner will program a key fob?

Asking for a friend that has a spare that came from eBay that needs programming and local locksmiths refuse to even try it.

Toyota Techstream is what the dealerships use for the programming. Any scantool that replicates its feature set would do.

I haven't used the Toyota edition of the Launch Creader Elite, but have played with the 2024 Honda version, and it included immobilizer programming options found in Honda HDS. I would expect the Toyota version to replicate Techstream's feature set as completely as the Honda version does HDS, so I fully expect the Creader Elite would work.

There are likely many other scan tools - perhaps even others within the Launch product line - which would work, but I don't have experience with them.

There are also bootleg versions of Techstream itself that are often sold together with the requisite cable. I don't know if I trust these to be free of malware, or if the media distributed might still require a license key that's not included. OTOH, they're readily available, not too expensive, and I haven't heard of anybody actually getting into any trouble, so they could very well work too. If you want to try your luck with that, you can search eBay for a Mini-VCI cable.

[tarzan_nojane]

The fobs are cheap from a number of places. The vehicle's computer is programmed to "memorize" up to 5 different chips. Also a good idea to clear the original two (2) that originally came with the vehicle - sounds like you only had one - plus the valet key.

The 2014 FR-S uses a Subaru G-chip (or similar Subaru system) - same as the BRZ. You can even get a facsimile "flip" fob without the Subaru logo on eBay as possible upgrade.

The valet key does not have all of the cuts of the ignition key, so you will need the key code to cut new ignition key(s).

[Luns]

Originally Posted by tarzan_nojane

The fobs are cheap from a number of places. The vehicle's computer is programmed to "memorize" up to 5 different fobs. Also a good idea to clear the original two (2) that originally came with the vehicle - sounds like yo only had one.



The valet key does not have all of the cuts of the ignition key, so you will need the key code to cut new ignition key(s).

The code is easily read from the key.

The valet key differs from the master key in only one cut right at the tip which is not even a part of the normally recorded key bittings. The valet key blank comes with the tip precut to reflect valet usage. Vehicle-specific cuts are made identically onto valet and master key blanks.

[DC2R]

Thanks for all the info!

I tried to copy the valet key but it wouldn't start the car due to not containing the immobilizer. What are the extra cuts in the key fob key? I'm guessing it adds the ability to open the trunk with the key.

So the way I take it I need to buy a new BRZ key fob and have it programmed to the car via techstream or similar app using a special cable. I am tuned using OpenFlash Tablet (soon to switch to ECUTek), does that complicate things? I've seen Toyota key fobs on Amazon. Would the one below work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...LFXZIQJ2T&th=1

[tarzan_nojane]

The car's ECU gets programmed, not the key. Up to five key chip signatures can be stored, so part of the process is to "forget" the lost/missing units.


Search for the term "FR-S" in the 184 reviews for the Amazon unit linked to above...

[Luns]

Originally Posted by DC2R

Thanks for all the info!

I tried to copy the valet key but it wouldn't start the car due to not containing the immobilizer. What are the extra cuts in the key fob key? I'm guessing it adds the ability to open the trunk with the key.

So the way I take it I need to buy a new BRZ key fob and have it programmed to the car via techstream or similar app using a special cable. I am tuned using OpenFlash Tablet (soon to switch to ECUTek), does that complicate things? I've seen Toyota key fobs on Amazon. Would the one below work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...LFXZIQJ2T&th=1

The only difference between valet and regular (master) key are that the valet blank has a little material that's been pre-cut at the tip of the key. That prevents it from opening the trunk. All the cuts that distinguish keys for one car from another are after that valet cut, and the locks for the rest of the car ignore the tip where valet and master blanks are different.

I'm not familiar with how OFT and ECUTek interact with the immobilizer system, so cannot say if it will complicate things. But otherwise yes, the car will need to be programmed (with Techstream or equivalent) to recognize whatever new key you acquire. That programming does not depend on actually turning the ignition, so you can actually do the programming before you have the key blade cut. That way, if the programming fails (because the key doesn't have the right immobilizer for your car) you could still return the uncut key for a refund.

That Amazon key will not have an appropriate immobilizer, though the keyless entry remote will probably work. It will work though as a recipient for a transponder you harvest from another key. As I mentioned before, the FR-S/BRZ/86 use a transponder that is unique to them and not shared with other cars. If a listing has any mention of any other car at all, then its transponder is not for you. If a listing has an SU003 part number in its description, it's a good sign.



Warning - pedantic content ahead.

Your use of the word "Fob" although now common, irks me as someone old enough to know where the word comes from. Not trying to call you out personally - not your fault - just part of a bigger shift of word usage.

A fob chain was a chain attached to a pocket watch that allowed you to pull the watch out of your pocket to check the time. Usage of the word got extended to things attached to a key chain which you could also grab in lieu of your key, and use to pull your key from your pocket.

When the first remote entry controls for cars came out, they were separate from the key, attached to a shared key ring. Being attached to the key, it was legitimately a fob - a fob remote - that you could grab and pull on to retrieve your keys without having to touch the keys directly. The word fob is not a synonym for remote control, it describes the fact that the remote control was attached to - but separate from - the key.

For keys that the remote is integrated into, the remote not being a separate item from the key means that it is not a fob.

[smackrel]

Originally Posted by Luns

For keys that the remote is integrated into, the remote not being a separate item from the key means that it is not a fob.

Interesting, if the current slang term for it is incorrect, that makes me wonder what the correct term for it would be?