Halo white 17' Toyota 86 featherweight build

[SuperTom]

Originally Posted by ADMINPLSAUTHMYACCOUNT

Wow I would've prefered to get mine off rockauto, I ended up going with some random ebay seller.


I can't seem to find them on their site now though?

This is what I got they are still available. Just add Centric blanks and stainless lines and you have a cheap BB kit

[SuperTom]

Quick mods today did the maxspeedingrods brace which is great that is aluminum and only 1.5 lbs. If installed normally the decal would be upsidedown so I just installed with the backside facing.

Also did half of the whiteline inserts for those bushings. Honestly dont see how they do much since they are just sandwiched between metal bushing and washer already there. Still need to do the front ones but am going to have to remove all my gas sheild aero ect to get to them.

[HotlavaFRSGT86]

Originally Posted by SuperTom

Did 2 mods today first added vents to the front skid plate to let heat out from the headers. This older post was my inspiration his is much cleaner than mine using a harborfreight cutoff wheel https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...9&postcount=10




Also went to home depot and grabbed an aluminum sheet. On its own way too flimsy but I connected it overtop the existing fiberglass trans cover. Then I cut out the area for the trans cooling vents. Added 1.75lbs




I also just ordered 3mm thick alumalite to replace the two coroplast panels I have over the driveshaft tunnel. I may have to buy one for this mod I just did if I hear wobbly aluminum sounds

You know this is a great idea, i may have to get out my grinder and add some of my own to let some heat out from my Jdl, its coated so doesn't get too damn hot, but you know. I will do mine a little different though. 2 thumbs up man!!

[HotlavaFRSGT86]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Damn 30 lb is a good chunk of weight. I still have my factory brakes, would love to drop all that weight. So that's including rotors and everything? Cause I think in terms of rotating mass - based on my research - there wasn't much (if anything?) to lose. Is that right?

Hey man i did the Wilwood kit this year and the unsprung savings is 13.2 lbs, 28 lbs altogether. I did the Fhi rear 2 pot swap to go with it and saved another 2.2 lbs. I also swapped all the Dot 3 fluid to synthetic Dot 4. I tell you what the car feels spectacular now. What a difference fixed calipers make over sliders.

[villainous_frx]

Originally Posted by SuperTom

This is what I got they are still available. Just add Centric blanks and stainless lines and you have a cheap BB kit

Could you post a photo of the front caliper pistons? This part # leads back to the same as STI calipers (44/40) which are different than the BRZ (40/40).

[SuperTom]

Originally Posted by villainous_frx

Could you post a photo of the front caliper pistons? This part # leads back to the same as STI calipers (44/40) which are different than the BRZ (40/40).

I believe the ones I got are STI calipers. You flip the bleeder screws on these so the 40 side piston is the leading piston. I guess I thought they were the same as PP calipers Im still happy with them nonetheless

[SuperTom]

First the Hotchik Strut bar is made of aluminum so its only 3.5lbs, only 1.5 gain over the stock bar. Its all one piece and has a connection point to one of the strut bolts. This would be a 10/10 mod if it connected to all the strut mount bolts and had the MC Brace. Got this used from a forum member these are discontinued.







Another big mod today was cutting my diffuser and replacing it with XL Hexagon mesh. Mainly wanted a way for trapped air to escape with all my underbody plates. I didnt invent this another forum member did this a few years ago this is just my version to mate with the verus diffuser.




Near perfect circles were challenging



Theres alot of open space between the exhaust tips open to any ideas there



Let me know ur thoughts I may paint the mesh the same as the dark grey on the rest of the car the shiny metal stands out alot. Also as you can see I painted the body behind the bumper body color yellow I may repaint it flat black to hide that area.

[RToyo86]

I like that a lot more than open diffuser look. Grey paint would be a hit more subtle which is more my style.

[SuperTom]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

I like that a lot more than open diffuser look. Grey paint would be a hit more subtle which is more my style.

Thats what I was thinking + the Exhaust and sway bars ect would be more visible through a darker mesh. Right now the shine blocks everything out.

[SuperTom]

painted the mesh matching charcoal and the background flat black




Also added some decals to the brembo brakes

[Stonehorsw]

Way better with the mesh and background black.

[SuperTom]

First was the TTCR-II underbody brace. A disappointed as they advertise there stuff on aliexpress as aluminum. There other braces are so far.

This was heavy at 5lbs. And I am reaching out how these threaded strips were supposed to be used it is baffling my mind right now.




Ended up using Stainless riv nuts to install until I figure out how the strips are used.




Also remade my 2 center plates with 2mm thick alumalite. This stuff is amazing near the same stiffness for half the weight of full aluminum. Plus was very easy to work with cutting and drilling.

Center plate was 4.25lbs

Rear Center plate was 2.5


Combined with the JDM covers and rear Verus diffuser/suspension covers I now have mostly all smooth underbody

[SuperTom]

TTCR-II from aliexpress did respond they slide in from the larger hole and are the main mounting setup. Using these would block my other holes used for mounting plates. I still give them an A in customer service for responding in a timely manner with pics.

[SuperTom]

I noticed when installing my Megan Trailing arms the bushing on the knuckle was very weak. I could get it flex with my hands. Found these Megan ones and there are others that look similiar probably all made from the same chinese factory but the Megan ones were the cheapest.

MRS-SC-0605



Used the burn out the rubber bushing, then sawsall the remained metal method to get the old ones out.



Had to buy the Maddox tool from Harbor Freight and used a socket to press in


They also sell the other bushing on the rear knuckle but I dont see how I can fit a press tool in there without taking out the whole knuckle