Halo white 17' Toyota 86 featherweight build

[SuperTom]

Why did I change exhaust? Well I backed into a curb thing a few years ago so my titanium faction fab has been bent all this time. Wanted 2.5" I think 70mm is overkill for NA engine.

My First choice would have been HKS HiSpec II for GR86 since they are light and 2.5", but it had the stupid donut flange. I need flat flange to mate with JDL UQFP

A few things this exhaust is pretty heavy at 33.75 lbs for everything. I may not have bought if I know. But im happy I did. It is extremely well built the hangers are super thick and im in love with the helmholtz pipe.

You get 2 tip options included as well rainbow and plain stainless

So here are the weights
Rear mid pipe 10.3lbs

Remaining midpipe 6lbs

Canisters 10.7lbs

Tips and remaining hardware 6.7lbs




Those hangers are thick




Unlike my HKS I had years ago Xforce cleans out any weld over flow




Also made a sound clip. Setup is now ACE 350 headers, JDL UQFP, XForce Race catback. Try to ignore the ticking from the engine its not an exhaust leak it goes away after the car is warmed up

https://youtube.com/shorts/qiWnJdzDD...5QM1YIc5W9IqPV

Car weight now increased to 2389.5 LBS ugh

[SuperTom]

Well I read someones build they claimed to lose ~7lbs replacing the steel spacer plate with aluminum. I misunderstood as that weight loss must have included ebrake delete and ebrake sheild.

I wanted to keep stock ebrake so a found a dual caliper adapter from gktech that had optional parts to keep the stock ebrake

Here it is on the scale about 2.5lbs for the kit


Here is the stock plate the white dots are where you drill out to remove the steel plate from the ebrake sheild



Steel adapter and Piece weight 1.7 for one side. not that heavy though


What the adapter and sheild now combined.




So my original experiment was going to use this kit and mount my main brakes on the adapter side. Then I could cut off the caliper mounting ears off the heavy stock Steel ones. This kit was designed to use stock base calipers, I was hoping my 2pot + adapter would work but calipers were up against the knuckle.

So this is a semi failed project so I had to improvise to get some weight out of this. I cut down the ears off the Gktech adapter and got it down to ~.75lbs this saved ~ a pound per side.



I also removed the outer shield for another LB combined.



So I was in total saved 2.75 lbs off the rear. Not close to the 6+lbs I had envisioned. Also spent 2 days with cutoff wheel on a seized bearing to make me say this mod was not worth it. However its done

[SuperTom]

Was looking to replace my Meister R coilovers. They were great for me for a while but the fronts were seized, years ago I unseized them but is possible I hurt some of the damping torching them.

Tein RX1 are the successors to the Flex A meaning you get the Hydraulic bumpstops and on the bottom mount you can an adjuster for camber. I think its good for another degree. These are 6k Fr, 6k R spring rates.

Bad these weight a bit more than my meister R's. Getting used to the stiffer spring rates I believe Meister R were 5k, 5k maybe less. The Meisters felt bouncier, These Teins have a little more thud but I only drove around the block.

These come with front end links and they are the same weight as the Carbon Fiber endlinks I just installed from RacerX. Could have saved $200+ if I knew last month I would get these coilovers


So the fronts come in at 27 lbs. Hard to find stock strut weights im getting 29lbs. Meister were 23.3lbs



Rears Tein 19lbs, stock I hear 16lbs , Meister 16.7



Also swapped out the rear trailing arms for Megan Racing ones. Megan about .25lbs heavier than stock




Install pic in the rear



So with the mods today lost 2lbs in the front vs stock but gained vs Meister R.
Gained 3.25 in the rear

New Vehicle weight 2394 LBS

[SuperTom]

Got both front and rear for $250 plus shipping. A steal
Not sure why these were slept on you get 200%+ stiffness increase according to this old post
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49659

And only slightly heavier than stock with them being hollow 22mm FR, 18mm R.
This instructions have the front barely 1/2lb heavier and the rear barely a 1/4 heavier
https://www.partsdocs.com/Guide/How+...+Subaru+BRZ/58
https://www.partsdocs.com/Guide/How+...+Subaru+BRZ/49




Sorry no pics on the car My "Godspeed" rear endlinks were seized I attempted to unseize and snapped so waiting on new adjustable endlinks to finish.

[autoracer86]

Thanks for all the hard work and details in this thread !

[SuperTom]

First the TRD door stabilzer BlackHawkJapan has the best prices on alot of parts even with Shipping and it got here in a few days

Added about .25lbs vs stock. Gives a little more solid feeling when closing my dry carbon doors. Havent done a long drive yet to test if it helps with vibrations.

Made this contrapation to get the door screws off easy. A phillips #3 didnt even budge it. But a #3 adapater on a breaking bar worked easy







Here is the PLM Coolant adapter. Not sure what the real name of the part is but its a retarded design from Subaru to have coolant and crankcase ventilation on the same plastic part. The PLM replacement is a work of art was so light didnt even register on my scale.

I also replaced the PCV Valve and hose as well.

[NLSP]

Originally Posted by SuperTom

Here is the PLM Coolant adapter. Not sure what the real name of the part is but its a retarded design from Subaru to have coolant and crankcase ventilation on the same plastic part. The PLM replacement is a work of art was so light didnt even register on my scale.

I also replaced the PCV Valve and hose as well.

Thank you for bringing this up, gonna pick one up for myself. I did some further research and found Reddit threads that mention the OEM coolant breather fitting is known to eventually fail and cause coolant leaks (or maybe I missed the threads on here that discussed this ).

Did you have to drain the coolant before replacing the coolant breather fitting?

[SuperTom]

Originally Posted by NLSP

Thank you for bringing this up, gonna pick one up for myself. I did some further research and found Reddit threads that mention the OEM coolant breather fitting is known to eventually fail and cause coolant leaks (or maybe I missed the threads on here that discussed this ).

Did you have to drain the coolant before replacing the coolant breather fitting?

Yes or it will flood the crankcase hole. Like I said terrible design from subaru.

I just drilled a hole in the stock plastic adapter to drain as much as I could and used my shop vac to suck up any fluid before unbolting. That way you dont have to drain all your coolant

[SuperTom]

Did 3 mods today STI Steering Rack Long Bolts, PLM end links, FDFraceshop Toe Arms

STI long bolts add .5 lbs to the front. When I installed my knockoff perring steering rack braces the passenger stock bolt had trouble bolting in could only do it with my impact so I was afraid it could be stripped.
This mod give me piece of mind since if my rack threads were stripped I would still be able to torque.
Rack threads ended up being fine but some of threads on the stock bolt were stripped at the tip.
Got these from JapanParts



Stock bolts


Had to grind back this protrusion on the drivers side or the collet/bolt combo would have been too close to ace headers


Grinded and enough room now


Also got my PLM adjustable rear endlinks these are half the price of other endlinks out there and you can adjust without unbolting from sway bar win-win


And installed FDFraceshop Rear Toe arms. These are also priced much better than many out there BUT they dont come with the eccentric lockout plate so I now had to order those elsewhere.

No weight change vs stock on these

[SuperTom]

Did 2 mods today first added vents to the front skid plate to let heat out from the headers. This older post was my inspiration his is much cleaner than mine using a harborfreight cutoff wheel https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...9&postcount=10




Also went to home depot and grabbed an aluminum sheet. On its own way too flimsy but I connected it overtop the existing fiberglass trans cover. Then I cut out the area for the trans cooling vents. Added 1.75lbs




I also just ordered 3mm thick alumalite to replace the two coroplast panels I have over the driveshaft tunnel. I may have to buy one for this mod I just did if I hear wobbly aluminum sounds

[SuperTom]

You may be asking what happened to my ultra lightweight wilwood setup. Long story short when to bleed brakes a week ago.
-Stripped both rear caliper bleed bolts, Stripped caliper mounting thread.
-Upfront snapped bleeder bolt inside caliper, all rubber piston gaskets were torn.
Would have to do a complete rebuild on front wilwood calipers, replace both 2pot rear calipers

Saw on GR86 forums Rockauto was selling remanufactured PP calipers real cheap. Could have done all front and rear new for about $1200 with regular centric rotors.

With the money saved decided to splurge and get Girodisc 2pc rotors all around. Everything including Powerstop Extreme Street pads, Mach V Stainless lines put me ~ $3k for everything.

Spray painted and 2k Cleared the calipers hopefully they hold up. Also used leftover clear on the rotor hats hopefully to protect and they look good shiny.




REAR SETUP:
Ill start with the rear vs my 2pot setup. PP Calipers are about 1/2 lighter due to the 2pots using an adapter.




Rotors are the same weight as tiny single vane rotors 11.25lbs



Rear pads on the outer side need to be trimmed using these rotors. Wasnt as hard as it sounds too a few minutes with harbor freight cutoff tool.




FRONT SETUP:

First this is going to add a ton of weight up front unfortunately vs the WRX Wilwood kit.

Calipers PP 10.25 lbs each, Wilwood 6lbs with bracket. Combinded both sides 8.5 lbs gained



Rotors Girodisc 16.5lbs (pic didnt load), Wilwood 10.5. Gained 12lbs of reciprocating mass


The Wilwood kit took 30lbs off the front vs basic stock brakes. With the PP setup still lighter than stock but only lose about 9.5 lbs.

Fitment inside Konig Hypergram 17x9 +40 is great. Had about 1/2" between caliper and barrel. Could stick full finger between caliper and spokes

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Damn 30 lb is a good chunk of weight. I still have my factory brakes, would love to drop all that weight. So that's including rotors and everything? Cause I think in terms of rotating mass - based on my research - there wasn't much (if anything?) to lose. Is that right?

[ADMINPLSAUTHMYACCOUNT]

Wow I would've prefered to get mine off rockauto, I ended up going with some random ebay seller.


I can't seem to find them on their site now though?

[SuperTom]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Damn 30 lb is a good chunk of weight. I still have my factory brakes, would love to drop all that weight. So that's including rotors and everything? Cause I think in terms of rotating mass - based on my research - there wasn't much (if anything?) to lose. Is that right?

Well look at the pic the wilwood rotor is 10lbs I think stock non-PP is 20lbs that is what I am comparing. So 20lbs reciprocating mass the other 10 came from lighter calipers. I will mostly likely figure out how to rebuild my calipers than sell that kit cheap to someone