2022 BRZ, Scargod's Mod's and Track Upgrades

[Scargod]

Wrapping up work on the front suspension and mods that allow me to run 275-40 Hoosier R7's, with 4.2° camber and six inch 9K Hyperco springs with a keeper spring without altering the exterior shape of the fender.
CAVEAT: Not for the faint of heart or those timid about mods that require a hammer.
I beat back the inside arch a little to stop tire rub at close to full lock. I trimmed off the inner fender lip for about a twelve inch stretch where only the rolled in edge is left.
My bump stop prevents the 25" diameter tire from rubbing at full compression.
Currently the ride height is at 13 inches and I have almost two inches of shock compression before it hits the bump stop and then I have another three-quarters of an inch that it can compress. After that it's just tire compression. I typically run 32-34 PSI in my slicks, HOT.
Not shown is the Hyperco hydraulic spring perch that keeps the spring from binding laterally. With all this and a keeper spring I was barely able to make it fit on the JRZ RS Pro3 damper that was designed for the Twins.
Shown is the KONIG Ultragram wheel in 17X10 48ET with full weight on the bump stop[ATTACH][/ATTACH]Adapter piece I made for adapting the bearing spring mount and extending the length of usable shaft by one-half inch (always covered by bump stop) This also eliminated an adapter going into the ball in the camber/caster plate.

[Scargod]

Finishing the suspension and making room inside for the Hoosiers.
-4.2° camber with 1/16" toe out and (rear) -3° camber and 1'/16" toe in.


Creating room for more compression travel. Washers and larger-stronger 10mm bolts were used.

[Scargod]

I'm about to test drive the car. I've been sick for two weeks and got little accomplished during that time. Here's what I'm showing in the pics:
I cut 3" holes in the trunk so I could remove the cannisters for my 3-way JRZ's without disconnecting them. Bought plastic plugs to fill in the holes. Mounted cannisters up high on foam so I can easily adjust rebound on them.
In the engine compartment I mounted them in one of the coolest spots I could find where they would be easily accessible. You can also see the raised Cygnus caster/camber plates and 3.4 pound Shorai LFX24L3-BS12 Extreme Rate Lithium Iron battery.
I raised the steering rack almost a half-inch to help steering geometry. I did this in solid aluminum bushings. If I did some fabbing and welding I might see another three-eights of an inch height. Geometry is looking great so far!
I will be starting from a 13 inch height in the front and hope the splitter is happy. I think the brake cooling solution is going to work out great too. Pics coming on details of how I constructed it and modded the Verus backing plate.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/atta...1&d=1743976168

[gnarjunkie]

Wowza.

I take it you are not concerned about oil pressure drops?

The whole thing does seem pretty overblown, but that's a lot of extra grip!

[Scargod]

No, I'm not concerned. Yes, the tires should generate more G forces.
Next on my agenda, perhaps bassackwards, is to tie my datalogger into my oil pressure gauge and start tracking it. I do have a GoPro to keep an eye on the gauge.
I am overfilling by almost a quart.

[Scargod]

Off to Lime Rock Park in the morning! I've been out in the car several times, checking it out before putting it on the trailer. 275 Hoosier's are not rubbing so far!
The car is a half-inch lower, meaning the splitter started hitting the front of the trailer.
So far I'm very optimistic about the car on the track. It was handling like a dream on the street. Very firmly planted.

[Scargod]

Made it back from Lime Rock Park in one piece and I posted a new personal best while I was at it. Did go off once because of the rear end being skittish at first.
Does anyone knows anything about the performance effects of canards?
Mine are all cheap, thin plastic. I put them on with 3M tape and then used black hot-melt adhesive to create a fillet along the top of the gap (left by the tape and the radius of the mounting lip). They withstood 121 MPH for around 80 laps/1.5 hours at LRP. yesterday.
What has happened is the rear end is looser than before. Not by a lot, but noticeable. And that's with a bit more wing angle. I did have a significant amount of negative toe in the front and some positive in the rear. I need to re-check everything after my two off-road excursions. The first off was early on and I didn't lose the rear after that. I made adjustments and got it to settle down quite a bit with the damper valving on the JRZ RS Pro3's, and tire pressure. Still need to dial in the dampers better!

Over the winter I've done a ton of stuff to my car as can be seen here in my journal.
So, with a different 4:56 rear end, stiffer springs, 3-way racing dampers, increased camber, bigger tires, lower car, by 1/2" (to 13" in the front) AND the canards, I'm a bit reluctant to say the Canards did it!
I did a personal best of 1:02 at Lime Rock Park, a track I know very well.
I was 1.3 MPH slower than when my 2022 BRZ was one year old with no canards and smaller 255 Hoosiers. Yesterday I was less than 2 tenths slower.
Any thoughts about empirical data (or any data) about what downforce canards can generate and at what speed do the start working?

[2.2Lude]

Pages 15 and 16 give a little blurb though I'm sure there are better/more informative sources available.

[Scargod]

Posted this today on a thread about: Does 18x9 or 17x9 with +47 or +48 on coilovers fit without spacers?
I'm only posting this with the CAVEAT that I have fully adjustable suspension components everywhere and I'm running JRZ RS Pro 3 coilovers designed for the BRZ.
Wheels are KONIG Ultragram 17X10 and 48ET. Springs are Hyperco 187A0500 that are 3.277 O.D. for the front (500 lb/in or appx. 9kN/m) and on the rear 186A0600 that are 3.252 O.D. and 500 lb/in or 11 kN/m.
Clearing the Rear is not a problem. Tire size can be. On the front I had to turn down my SPL tie rod end links to clear the rim's edge.
On the front I've run 275x40x17 Hoosier's with a 10mm spacer and removing virtually all the fender lip. I've hammered back a couple of spots on the wheel well and removed the liner. Still it rubs a small amount on the spring on the left and doesn't rub the spring on the right. I'm running 3.5 to 4 degrees of camber.
On the rear I have hammered in some spots of the wheel well and have just about taken off the inner lip, much like in the front. I do not use a spacer and there is no rubbing of the 275's.
It is not for the faint of heart and it requires adjustable links and arms.

I've still got to solve the rubbing of the spring in the front and there's lock to lock rubbing that I'm going to live with, vs adding stops. And, I'm doing this without pulling the fenders or resorting to flares.

I have run 17x9.5 +40 Apex wheels with spacers. I have 255x40 Hoosier's on them. Only full lock rubbing in the front into the liner. This with a little cutting on the O.D. of the steering link rod ends. I did have rear LCA's and toe links on the rear of the car.

[Scargod]

Monday, 6-2, at Club Motorsports, I crashed the car on my second lap of the morning. It was wet and I did a money shift from third to second between T5 and 6. The rear wheels instantly locked up and I veered almost straight into the Armco on the short back straight (highest point on the track).
The driver's side of the nose is pretty messed up. Well, the whole front is bad. The left rear hit pretty hard too as the car spun around from the initial impact at around 65.
I'm intending to fix it, as the suspension points and subframes seem to be mostly okay and not pushed out of position.
I have a red 2022 coming to be my temporary track car.

I'm all ears if anyone has a suggestion as to a front bumper cover/fascia. I would like one that is purpose-made for racing and not specifically for looks. I wonder if a used stock one would be my best bet?

BTW, I've ordered a CMS roll cage for it and TSS Fab subframes. Looks like I may be a Guinea pig for TSS Fab.

[RT-BRZ]

Originally Posted by Scargod

Monday, 6-2, at Club Motorsports, I crashed the car on my second lap of the morning. It was wet and I did a money shift from third to second between T5 and 6. The rear wheels instantly locked up and I veered almost straight into the Armco on the short back straight (highest point on the track).
The driver's side of the nose is pretty messed up. Well, the whole front is bad. The left rear hit pretty hard too as the car spun around from the initial impact at around 65.
I'm intending to fix it, as the suspension points and subframes seem to be mostly okay and not pushed out of position.
I have a red 2022 coming to be my temporary track car.

I'm all ears if anyone has a suggestion as to a front bumper cover/fascia. I would like one that is purpose-made for racing and not specifically for looks. I wonder if a used stock one would be my best bet?

BTW, I've ordered a CMS roll cage for it and TSS Fab subframes. Looks like I may be a Guinea pig for TSS Fab.

Wow man. I'm sorry to hear that. I'm guessing/hoping you didn't sustain any injuries.

No clue on the front bumper cover but I'm very interested in the results of what you find/figure out.

[Scargod]

I'm okay! I'm surprised at still having a tiny bit of rib soreness after a week, but the seat, harness, head restraints and helmet did their job! They did a CT scan after the crash.

I'll let everyone know what I do. One thing about aftermarket fascia's is that most have huge holes, mainly for looks. The radiator really doesn't require that much of an opening.
BTW, I ordered a Jackson Racing radiator-oil cooler combo.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by Scargod

I'm okay! I'm surprised at still having a tiny bit of rib soreness after a week, but the seat, harness, head restraints and helmet did their job! They did a CT scan after the crash.

I'll let everyone know what I do. One thing about aftermarket fascia's is that most have huge holes, mainly for looks. The radiator really doesn't require that much of an opening.
BTW, I ordered a Jackson Racing radiator-oil cooler combo.

Would love to hear how the JR rad oil cooler combo effects your oil pressure if by chance you data log it.

Sorry to hear about the crash

[Scargod]

New Journal started for the Red 2022 BRZ I just bought (with 24K miles on it).