Just Got an Alignment – Why Is My Rear Camber Still at -2.0°?

[ZimmyBRZ]

I got an alignment yesterday at a performance shop. $175. This is what they gave me. Keep in mind I have rear adjustable control arms since my car is lowered but they didn’t seem to adjust my rear camber at all? Car feels a little imbalanced. A little floaty in the front.
Not sure what to do. What alignment specs do y’all recommend?

Tires - Pilot Sport 4 All Season


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[cmiovino]

Everyone is going to be different, but I always like a little more camber in the front than rear, even on a street car.

For autocross we run -4 degrees up front and -2.0 to -2.5 rear. I wouldn't advise going that aggressive as at -4 you start taking a hit to inner tire wear. I'd recommend somewhere in the area of -2.5 up front if you can make that with whatever adjustment you have. Camber plates should easily make that work and if you're lowered on springs, I'd get some aftermarket camber bolts and likely max them out. Rear, I'd go around -1.5 to 2.0.

All depends what you told them you wanted. I always go into our shop and say here are the exact specs I want and they get the camber within 0.1 degrees and the toe is always exactly 0.0 (as I ask).

Half a degree in the front is literally nothing. I was running -1 degree when my car was in street trim for autocross without adjustable camber plates or bolts. Even -1 degree is nothing, but that's what the rules allowed us. I run my street driven WRX at -2.5 with some stiffer/lowering springs, stock struts, and aftermarket camber bolts.

[ZimmyBRZ]

Well, it’s a daily, so I don’t want anything too aggressive. But obviously right now the setup is not optimal. What about -1.0 in the front and -1.5 in the back?


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[RToyo86]

What is your suspension setup?

Personally wouldn't be very happy with that, did you give them specs to aim for?
Toe is all over the place, even after it was adjusted.


Edit

Originally Posted by ZimmyBRZ

Well, it’s a daily, so I don’t want anything too aggressive. But obviously right now the setup is not optimal. What about -1.0 in the front and -1.5 in the back?

I would aim for -1.5° in the front and roughly the same in the rear. My daily setup was around -1.8° front and -1.5° rear. 0 toe all around, maybe a smidge toe in the rear.

[ZimmyBRZ]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

What is your suspension setup?

Personally wouldn't be very happy with that, did you give them specs to aim for?
Toe is all over the place, even after it was adjusted.

BC racing coilovers, drop of about 1-2 inches (not totally sure) Whiteline end links front+rear, stock sway bars, whiteline rear adjustable control arms.


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[ZimmyBRZ]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

What is your suspension setup?

Personally wouldn't be very happy with that, did you give them specs to aim for?
Toe is all over the place, even after it was adjusted.


Edit


I would aim for -1.5° in the front and roughly the same in the rear. My daily setup was around -1.8° front and -1.5° rear. 0 toe all around, maybe a smidge toe in the rear.

Thanks. Do you think I will need front camber bolts for that? I don’t think so since I have BC coils with the camber plates.


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[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by ZimmyBRZ

Thanks. Do you think I will need front camber bolts for that? I don’t think so since I have BC coils with the camber plates.


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No, not with camber plates. Should be plenty for up to -2.5 or less.

[ZimmyBRZ]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

No, not with camber plates. Should be plenty for up to -2.5 or less.

Thanks so much. Gonna try and have them redo it to -1.5 all round. After doing some reading what I got from them was pretty pathetic especially for a performance shop.

Any recommendations on toe? I imagine 0.05 or less.


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[Ohio Enthusiast]

What exactly did you ask them to do? Looks like you got a generic "in the green" alignment based on their computer output (which says no rear camber adjustment, so despite you having adjustable RLCAs they didn't bother touching that).

I'm running -2.8 front (camber bolts and offset top hat) and -2.3 rear (just from lowering) camber, and slight toe out front, slight toe in rear (around 0.05 each wheel). This is on the aggressive side for street, but I do enjoy it and also track the car.

A less aggressive spec would be -2 front, -1.5 rear camber, zero toe front, slight toe in rear. Talk to the shop to confirm they are aware of the parts on the car and are willing to align to a spec you give them.

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by ZimmyBRZ

Thanks so much. Gonna try and have them redo it to -1.5 all round. After doing some reading what I got from them was pretty pathetic especially for a performance shop.

Any recommendations on toe? I imagine 0.05 or less.


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I run zero toe all around for autocross, but I know a lot of guys run a hair of toe in for stability. My driving style is stupid smooth and almost not aggressive enough, so I just stick to zero all around.

For a street car, I'd do zero all around personally. You're not going to be at the limit dangling it around like at autocross or the track to notice any difference. Zero will ensure no tire wear from toe.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by ZimmyBRZ

BC racing coilovers, drop of about 1-2 inches (not totally sure) Whiteline end links front+rear, stock sway bars, whiteline rear adjustable control arms.


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If you are running really low the white line LCA’s may not have enough adjustment. Rear gains negative camber with compression. Have you called the shop and asked them about it? I had a shop do this to me before. Couldn’t get toe where I wanted it because toe arms didn’t have enough adjustment at the ride height and camber I was running.