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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#1 |
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Alignment feedback
I am doing the following wheel/alignment mods all at once and looking for feedback on alignment specs; I been getting mixed information and hoping to find a setup that'll be a balance between street and track (4 full days a year roughly). Any feedback is appreciated
Specs: Front Camber -3 Rear Camber -2.5 Toe out front 1/16 to 1/8 Toe in rear 1/16 Mods: -Enkei RPF1’s 17X9 +35 square set up -Hankook Ventus RS-4 255/40/17 -H&R lowering springs (25mm drop) -Verus engineering camber plates -Whiteline rear ajustable LCA -Rear fender tab cut -Arp extended wheel studs Also, can anyone confirm if the rear toe is adjustable from factory?
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| The Following User Says Thank You to leb_crx For This Useful Post: | Stonehorsw (04-10-2025) |
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#2 |
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That's a good setup. Rear toe is adjustable.
Front camber may be a touch on aggressive end for street, but really depends how often you use the car. |
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#3 |
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Agreed. I'd probably go for 0 toe in front though.
- Andrew |
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#4 |
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Always the same track?
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#5 |
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I run almost the same specs, a bit less toe out front and a bit more toe in rear. I dialed down the front camber to -2.8 as I was starting to get some uneven wear with -3.
I too find slight toe out to be nicer on the street. Can't say I feel twitchiness with toe out in the front, but I had a short stint of toe out in the rear (doing some suspension work and drove a bit before aligning the car) and that was pretty sketchy, especially on bumps. For rear toe, it is adjustable from the factory, but it's horrible to adjust. I finally dialed in my alignment in the rear, but if I do any more suspension work I'll be getting aftermarket toe arms with easier adjustability. |
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#6 |
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Thanks for the feedback everyone. I am debating dialing back the front camber a bit for the first year (can always add more later in the year/next year)
Yes always the same local track (Calabogie) for now. I realized I forgot to mention it, but it's a 23 BRZ. |
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#7 |
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A little bit less front camber is probably a good idea if it's a daily driver that does a lot of daily driving. That said, I run about -3 and it's probably too much but it sure is fun.
- Andrew |
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#8 |
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I run -2.8 camber up front on 17x9 +35 ARC8's with 225/45 RT615k+'s and just clear my TRD springs. I honestly don't believe I could clear 245's right now let alone 255's with spacers. Your H&R's are probably about the same OD as the TRD, and most common lowering springs. Pedders top hats, SPC lower camber bolt with the OEM lower bolt in the top hole, and 0 front toe for reference.
-2.8 on the street was fine, no tram-lining or weird pulling until I installed the Eibach front bar. Now the set up will track with the road moderately but turn-in is much improved on the track. |
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#9 | |
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Quote:
-2.5° front -2° Rear Toe 1mm out front(asked for 0..) 0 toe rear |
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#10 |
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Even with -4 front camber it drives totally normal on the street and that includes really bad irish roads and normal highway driving lol
I would go 0 front toe as well
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#11 |
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Thanks everyone, really appreciate the input
going to Getty automotive for the alignment - whats bag Babit? |
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#12 | |
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Quote:
That was a typo I meant to say bad habit. Jeff Steinbakker runs a race shop for these and has done a few alignments for me so far. Worth checking the ft86 club of Ottawa, can find out discord as well. |
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#13 |
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Ah cool, I'll check them out, thanks!
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#14 |
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-3 is no prob at all on the street.
I run zero toe front and rear rather than front toe-out front and rear toe-in. Anyway, I'd never go more than 1/16" toe either way, at either end. |
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