Hideaway Strobe kit installation

[assbox]

Quick write up on installing a Universal hideaway strobe kit into your FRS/BRZ

So I went into this with no instructions other than just asking some other drifter franz what kind of kit they were using in their platform.

Why? Cause hotboi and the TapTurn strobe module wasn’t cool enough for me. This system will be primarily used for drift events at a closed track.

When doing electrical stuff, please have the battery disconnected!!! Better safe than sorry! I will hold no liability for your poor decisions.

Tools – wire strippers/cutters, Dremel/zipties, solder station (or butt connectors) also 8mm and 10mm wrench and temporary twist ties

Main product purchased - https://www.ebay.com/itm/120W-6-HID-...72.m2749.l2649


Additional purchases – 2x 16awg ring connectors and extra 20ft 16awg wire for extending control module power, set of clear stock 86 tail lights, winjet foglights (or 2x Valeo 18839) and extra helix side markers.



The first thing I did to start the project is to decide how I was going to place the bulbs in the headlights/taillights/turn signals/foglights/sidemarkers. I had a lot of different options. All that is needed is a 1inch diameter hole. You can either make your own hole or use a pre-existing hole. Stock headlights and tail lights both have a turn signal input that can easily be modified to fit the new strobe bulb. Since I have winjet headlights, I choose to put the strobe bulbs in my fog lights, and side markers as both weren’t being used anyway. What I simply did for the foglights and OEM taillights was to simply trim the plastic that locks the OEM bulb in place. The strobe bulbs have a rubber feel to them, so they adapt into spaces really well. So no need to be absolutely perfect. I had issues with the side markers though. It appears there just isn’t enough room for the halogen style strobe bulb after boring a larger hole. I saw that WOLO makes this kit (more $$$) but offers a LED option which appears to be slightly smaller. So maybe I should have went with that kit. I can imagine I could possibly use a 1 inch PVC pipe and JB weld it to the sidemarker to give extra room. Something I might play with in the future. Time was of the issue so I moved forward for now…













Most of the time spent was actually just planning the wire runs, and where I should set the strobe module. I like to hide/tuck things away as much as possible to give that OEM look. So I settled to place the strobe module behind my HVAC unit. I found that this was a good center point, as two of the six extended wires provided by the strobe kit were a couple feet longer than the others (product description shows 6qty at 9ft in length). I can imagine the wires runs will still work if you placed the module in the engine bay as well. (Being I have a stupid hood scoop that allows for water to enter… I opted not to go that route)



Starting from the trunk I used twist ties (temporary, zips later) to line the two extension cables up along the OEM harness for the taillights. Going forward I ran these behind the rear seat cards and under the center console (see pictures). Ran the strobe module connecting points up through the shifter area and behind the HVAC unit. I stuffed any extra cable neatly in the center console and was careful not to obstruct the e-brake cable. Your wire route may vary, as my trunk is pretty much gutted.




From the front fog lights I ran each strobe extension cable neatly around the engine bay and through the firewall. (getting the wires through the firewall sucked, be patient) I had just enough wire to make it, up around the main harness, steering column and into the HVAC console area so there are no obstructions while I’m driving. I also did this same method for the strobe main power cable leads. I ran the 16awg wire just in the same fashion and followed the strobe extension wires. Clean cut is best so take your time and finalize with zipties to pull the wires in tight. Any extra wire was trimmed and placed within the HVAC area. I then used a soldering station to solder the power leads from the battery to the strobe power control harness. (you can just use a butt connector if you want) Last thing to do for the power leads is to crimp ring connectors, find a good ground and connect to the positive battery terminal.


Last step is to find placement of the strobe module power/mode change switch. I opted for the glove box because again out of sight out of mind. (see picture) Ill finalize the placement with it being mounted on the top of the glove compartment so it’s set back and away.



Making sure all cables are plugged snug into the strobe module, you can then test to make sure all connected lights fire up. Just simply flip the rocker switch and change to whatever mode you’d prefer.



Final, final step, is to obviously put all of your interior pieces back into place.

Below is quick capture. Video distorted due to light output.

Room for improvement: For the tail lights… in order for me to use them currently on the street, I will have to swap the turn signal bulb and the strobe bulb as they are both using the same hole for now. The swap takes maybe 3 seconds. I plan on making a 2 inch diameter hole in the body where the lights sit so I can pass the strobe bulb up though the turn signal area in a new designated hole so I can run both turn signal and strobe at the same time.

Let me know if you have any questions, and I’d be happy to assist.

[Pho20]

So you lose the use of your fog lights?

[Leonardo]

I've always seen a separate hole drilled in the light for the strobes. That way you can retain factory functionality too.

[8RZ]

Just needs some techno music.

[EndlessAzure]

Ouch. It hurts me that you drilled into that OE fog light. They aren't cheap to replace

[assbox]

Eh. You can get both Valeo 18839 fog lights for $60 total. I'd consider that cheap.