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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Drives: 2016 Scion FRS Release Series 2#439
Location: Chatham, Ontario, Canada
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Best Wheel Bearing/Hub replacement?
NTN/OEM, MOOG or other? I do like MOOG replacement parts.
I’m considering new rear wheel bearing hubs as a winter project. I unsuccessfully tried removing the original hubs a couple years back in order to install longer stronger wheel studs. A slide hammer wasn’t available then. Anyway, after a few summers of lapping those original bearings and studs they could likely use a re-fresh. So, damaging the originals during removal is now not an issue. Any thoughts which brand is superior?
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Edelbrock S/C with CSG 94 & 91 maps
TRD Short Shifter, CTS-V/EvoX Brembos Ohlin’s R&T Dampers, Hotchkis F/R Bars, Blox LCA & Toe Arms 235F/245R Conti ECS on TRD/Enkei wheels (street), 245/40 sq. ECF on 17x8 720Form GTF2 wheels (track) |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Drives: 15 Impreza
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I've been using SKF wheel bearings and hubs for my Impreza. Warranty is the longest of any bearing and hub I was able to find.
One rear bearing was making some noise after a few thousand miles, no issues or hassle on replacement through Rockauto. Hopefully just a one off, everything has been quiet since.I removed the rear knuckle and pressed the hub out once. PITA trying to get the angle right to press the hub out. https://www.amazon.com/removal-tool-...98&sr=8-5&th=1 Bought this thing and it's freaking great. Washers are super cheap and bend but the hub still comes out. Make sure to support the suspension with a jack or something solid to prevent from over extending the strut. If you don't support the suspension you will kill the strut. |
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#3 |
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My understanding is OEM is best.
Then SKF/Timken. |
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#4 |
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I can't remember if I've posted about it here, but I initially bought a spare Centric and a spare Timkin. I found the Centrics have a different hub style that aligns with everything I dislike when I look at hubs from other cars that commonly break hubs (Miata, S2000, etc). I will say that the Centric can have studs easily installed/removed without hitting it a bit with a grinder.
![]() ![]() I tried the Centric and it only lasted a few events before I put the Timken in its place. I ended up finding a deal on two new OEM fronts that I have as my spares for now. Long story short, Timken or OEM.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
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Thanks all for your input and keep it coming!
As suspected the big name bearing companies are getting the nod. Rock Auto have a good selection and I will also scour Canada for competitive pricing when the time comes.
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Edelbrock S/C with CSG 94 & 91 maps
TRD Short Shifter, CTS-V/EvoX Brembos Ohlin’s R&T Dampers, Hotchkis F/R Bars, Blox LCA & Toe Arms 235F/245R Conti ECS on TRD/Enkei wheels (street), 245/40 sq. ECF on 17x8 720Form GTF2 wheels (track) |
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#6 |
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Both brands are durable, but with your track and performance setup, MOOG could offer a slight edge if you want an aftermarket solution with extra durability. However, NTN might be a better fit if you're after OEM consistency.
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#7 |
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It's not like OEM is especially durable. Are people having issues with the cheap stuff of ebay? These prices for name brands are ridiculous when you can get a pair of cheap hubs for just over 100 bucks for the fronts and less for the rears.
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#8 |
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Anyone know the dimensions of the original bearings? I don't have one to examine?
https://www.skf.com/id/products/roll...s-and-variants
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