2013 BRZ Rebuild, totalled to track car.

[Opie]

Originally Posted by gnarjunkie

Question for you from alllll the way back to the first page...

I stuffed my BRZ into a tire wall at the track this last weekend and bent this exact part. The part above the headlight and where the front of the fender attaches to specifically are pretty not-straight anymore. I remembered this thread somehow and thought you might be able to help.

Do you remember if this whole fender support part bolts in? Or does it need to be welded in? My initial thought was it might all need to be cut out and replacements welded in, but looking at these photos, it looks like maybe the replacement piece is just a lot bigger than I was originally thinking.

It all depends on which part(s) are bent (picture would help). But the parts are all available from Subaru seperately, most aftermarket units come as a complete core support which very rarely is needed. Depending on which parts are needed, some are bolted, some are welded and bolted and some are just welded.

In the first picture below, the T-Brace #53010A is bolted in. P/N: 53029CA0209P
The passenger (right) headlight surround #53010B is bolted and welded. (2 bolts, 3 plug welds). P/N: 53029CA0709P
The driver (left) headlight surround #53010C is also bolted and welded. (2 bolts, 3 plug welds). P/N: 53029CA0809P

In the second picture it is possible that the apron reinforcements are also bent.
The passenger (right) side #51233H is bolted and welded. (2 bolts, 3 plug welds). P/N: 51639CA0109P
The driver (left) side #51233I is also bolted and welded. (2 bolts, 3 plug welds). P/N: 51639CA0209P

If you have access to a welder and are somewhat mechanically proficient the repairs are pretty easy, the hardest part in making sure everything is square before welding. The measurements to ensure everything is lined up are found in the Subaru BRZ Body Repair Manual.

[gnarjunkie]

Originally Posted by Opie

It all depends on which part(s) are bent (picture would help). But the parts are all available from Subaru seperately, most aftermarket units come as a complete core support which very rarely is needed. Depending on which parts are needed, some are bolted, some are welded and bolted and some are just welded.

In the first picture below, the T-Brace #53010A is bolted in. P/N: 53029CA0209P
The passenger (right) headlight surround #53010B is bolted and welded. (2 bolts, 3 plug welds). P/N: 53029CA0709P
The driver (left) headlight surround #53010C is also bolted and welded. (2 bolts, 3 plug welds). P/N: 53029CA0809P

In the second picture it is possible that the apron reinforcements are also bent.
The passenger (right) side #51233H is bolted and welded. (2 bolts, 3 plug welds). P/N: 51639CA0109P
The driver (left) side #51233I is also bolted and welded. (2 bolts, 3 plug welds). P/N: 51639CA0209P

If you have access to a welder and are somewhat mechanically proficient the repairs are pretty easy, the hardest part in making sure everything is square before welding. The measurements to ensure everything is lined up are found in the Subaru BRZ Body Repair Manual.

Thank you!!

The passenger side headlight surround and apron reinforcements are the parts that are bent.

I've never done anything with spot welds before... but it looks like they almost play the same role as bolts. Like the parts show up with holes in it where you place the spot weld to seal it up to the car.

Am I correct in that?

If so, that seems like just a matter of drilling out the old weld and replacing the part. Feels like it might even be fairly straightforward to line it all up correctly as you'd have 2-3 different points (between the bolts and spot welds) to line up before actually welding.

Does that sound about right? Totally guessing here... I'm fairly confident in mechanical work but I've never had to replace something of this nature before.

[Opie]

Originally Posted by gnarjunkie

Thank you!!

The passenger side headlight surround and apron reinforcements are the parts that are bent.

I've never done anything with spot welds before... but it looks like they almost play the same role as bolts. Like the parts show up with holes in it where you place the spot weld to seal it up to the car.

Am I correct in that?

If so, that seems like just a matter of drilling out the old weld and replacing the part. Feels like it might even be fairly straightforward to line it all up correctly as you'd have 2-3 different points (between the bolts and spot welds) to line up before actually welding.

Does that sound about right? Totally guessing here... I'm fairly confident in mechanical work but I've never had to replace something of this nature before.

There are no holes in the parts where they need to be spot welded. The sections that bolt up will help get it close. I used this to drill out the old spot welds, use a punch to mark the center and drill just enough to free the panel without going all the way through. Then use the part you took off as a template to drill holes in new part, the "stumps" left from the old part should fit in the holes you drilled, then bolt & clamp the new panel in place, measure multiple times to ensure everything is lined up, then weld.

I posted the 2013-2016 Body Repair Manual here for you.

Radiator Support Repair Instructions start on Page 62, Pages 220 & 221 show the measuring points and measurements.

[gnarjunkie]

Originally Posted by Opie

There are no holes in the parts where they need to be spot welded. The sections that bolt up will help get it close. I used this to drill out the old spot welds, use a punch to mark the center and drill just enough to free the panel without going all the way through. Then use the part you took off as a template to drill holes in new part, the "stumps" left from the old part should fit in the holes you drilled, then bolt & clamp the new panel in place, measure multiple times to ensure everything is lined up, then weld.

I posted the 2013-2016 Body Repair Manual here for you.

Radiator Support Repair Instructions start on Page 62, Pages 220 & 221 show the measuring points and measurements.

That makes sense. Really appreciate it! Looks like it's a bit more involved than I was anticipating originally but still looks pretty doable.

[Opie]

Geez, I haven't driven this car since December 2023....been spending a lot of time in the company MX5 NC's. I sure hope it, and I, do well this weekend at Road Atlanta!

[Opie]

Car did great!

[Opie]

Sweet pic...

[Opie]

At Road Atlanta near the end of the day the car was pushing quite a bit in T1, T7 and T12. I attributed it to me pushing too hard...went to Sebring on Saturday and the car would not turn, super pushy. It's never really been like that at my home track....think the tires were just done....lol

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Opie

At Road Atlanta near the end of the day the car was pushing quite a bit in T1, T7 and T12. I attributed it to me pushing too hard...went to Sebring on Saturday and the car would not turn, super pushy. It's never really been like that at my home track....think the tires were just done....lol

Those are just rain grooves

[gnarjunkie]

Originally Posted by Opie

There are no holes in the parts where they need to be spot welded. The sections that bolt up will help get it close. I used this to drill out the old spot welds, use a punch to mark the center and drill just enough to free the panel without going all the way through. Then use the part you took off as a template to drill holes in new part, the "stumps" left from the old part should fit in the holes you drilled, then bolt & clamp the new panel in place, measure multiple times to ensure everything is lined up, then weld.

I posted the 2013-2016 Body Repair Manual here for you.

Radiator Support Repair Instructions start on Page 62, Pages 220 & 221 show the measuring points and measurements.

Just following back up. The car is fixed now and looks great -- your information was hugely helpful. Thank you!

[Opie]

Originally Posted by gnarjunkie

Just following back up. The car is fixed now and looks great -- your information was hugely helpful. Thank you!

Glad to hear! That's awesome.

[Opie]

And that's a wrap.

After a difficult decision I sold the BRZ & trailer this past weekend.

With my job working for Chin Track Days I found myself with less and less opportunities to get the BRZ to the track. Strange huh, you'd think that being at a track almost every weekend would provide more opportunities to drive the car, but with the responsibility of shuttling the Chin trailers/cars to each event it was actually quite difficult to actually bring my own car.

Considering that Chin provides a fleet of prepared track Miata's that I can drive at no cost to me...I could no longer justify the cost of maintaining, insuring and storing the BRZ while not getting to enjoy it. Now to be clear...I liked driving the BRZ more than I like driving the NC's and the BRZ is faster...the costs just didn't justify the means...
I hope I don't regret it too much....

Car is heading to the North East US with an owner that has a GR86 and wants to get more into the track/racing hobby.

I'll still be building random 86's as they come along, and have a fleet of family Subaru's to keep maintained as well as a JDM Legacy B4 RSK to keep me entertained...and who knows, I may buy a new TS if the urge gets me....

I'll still be here providing input, answering tech/repair questions and more.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Opie

And that's a wrap.

After a difficult decision I sold the BRZ & trailer this past weekend.

With my job working for Chin Track Days I found myself with less and less opportunities to get the BRZ to the track. Strange huh, you'd think that being at a track almost every weekend would provide more opportunities to drive the car, but with the responsibility of shuttling the Chin trailers/cars to each event it was actually quite difficult to actually bring my own car.

Bummer, but glad to hear you will still be around saving the odd twin as it crosses your path.

[Ultramaroon]

Yeah... +1 to that ^^^