Oil weight for track only car with a lot of cooling?

[autoracer86]

You should see all the ways gas mileage calculation is done in Ireland/UK lol

[Bergycheese348]

Originally Posted by Davidss

A few things you should consider. The coolant gauge is a dummy gauge, the engine might be a little cold or hot and the gauge is not going to move. Next the oil can be overheated on some engines while the coolant temp is still fine. Next the OEM oil spec is 20 weight in countries where fuel mileage is top priority and 20/30/40 weight (depending on climate) in countries where reliability is top priority. Lastly some of your logic would make more sense is the oil system in these engines was not a known flawed design and an incredibly high amount of cars spin bearings on track.

Ultimately I don't think I am going to convince you probably best for you to wire up your oil pressure and temp gauge and see the numbers for yourself. My oil pressure is still lower than I would like at redline on track with 50 weight and an enormous custom oil cooler. But it is an effective bandaid to cover up the flaws in the oil system design.

Yes, I understand the coolant gauge acts like a dummy gauge (just like the oil gauge, as it decided to tell me I was out of oil once all of it drained into my transmission a few years ago). Looking at my gauges that were recently installed and have had the time to analyze everything on a daily basis, the car says it is 'warm' when the coolant and oil has barely reached 60 degrees Celsius (140F), which is obviously still cold. I obviously cannot make much more comments about that as I have no idea what temp it considers itself hot. With my limited time driving the car hard on backroads (still cold out), my oil has stayed marginally cooler than my coolant, 5-10 degrees. In terms of the different weights in different countries, I would have no reason why it would change. I mean, these cars already get great MPG from factory, so the extra half MPG would not make a difference I suppose, it is not like we are some heavy Cadillac Escalade that barely gets 20. In terms of the rod bearings, I have rarely heard of anyone blowing up their engines, especially on track, between the two state 86 groups I am in. It is also not always a matter of they spun a rod due to oil pressure, things like temperature, pressure, rpm (overrevving), etc would have to come into play. It is the parameters that matter most in determining the potential cause in a vehicle. I mean, with how many of our cars are wrecked, are they dangerous to drive or are the people buying them idiots and do not know how to handle a 200 CRANK horsepower car?

Like I said, I am here to learn. My path is argue a case for what you have concluded, and unless you can have clear convincing evidence that supports a different claim then keep with what you think. (People claim slammed cars are fun, but cannot tell me how they are fun besides fixing it constantly. Therefore without reasonable evidence I can conclude they are bozos).

On another hand, I guess I would like to know possibly how my oil pressure seems to be...unreasonably high. For example, at 80C (176F), my gauge reads just under 5 bar (72 PSI) at 3k rpms. As we know the general rule of thumb is 10 PSI for every 1K rpms, some say 1 bar, but obviously this is a lot. I understand this is not at a full operating temp (too cold for my car to get there without pushing it constantly), but still it is high. As mentioned, 0W-20, about 4.5k miles on it currently, pressure taken from the sandwich plate.

[Bergycheese348]

Originally Posted by Bergycheese348

On another hand, I guess I would like to know possibly how my oil pressure seems to be...unreasonably high. For example, at 80C (176F), my gauge reads just under 5 bar (72 PSI) at 3k rpms. As we know the general rule of thumb is 10 PSI for every 1K rpms, some say 1 bar, but obviously this is a lot. I understand this is not at a full operating temp (too cold for my car to get there without pushing it constantly), but still it is high. As mentioned, 0W-20, about 4.5k miles on it currently, pressure taken from the sandwich plate.

Forgot to mention I am doing a oil change this weekend, so will update afterwards

[GrandSport]

I've been going down a serious oil rabbit hole.
Does anyone have any experience using synthetic diesel oil? Ie: Shell Rotella? Their Zinc concentration is really high, and it's $23/gallon vs. about 3x that for mobil 1 racing.

I'm seriously considering it for my AMG being turbocharged and all.

[RedReplicant]

I run Rotella T6 in my car, it works fine. I also ran it in my turbo NB race car and my S2000 race car.

[autoracer86]

Yeah t6 is very popular in the turbo Subaru world. Ran it myself on my legacy gt back in the day.

I run basic off the shelf mobile 1 xe1 5w30 in the 86 seems to be fine after back to back UOA and some basic hpde type driving and street

[x808drifter]

Ran it in my turboed NA Miata also.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Bergycheese348

or are the people buying them idiots and do not know how to handle a 200 CRANK horsepower car?

The price of the car makes it rather accessible. Kids living at home working minimum wage can afford them, and will make kid decisions.

[Bergycheese348]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The price of the car makes it rather accessible. Kids living at home working minimum wage can afford them, and will make kid decisions.

Correct (same thing with Mustangs because it is cheap horsepower). The point I was trying to make is that you cannot just say one thing is bad without knowing the general cause.

[GrandSport]

while we're at it- do we have a preferred trans fluid and diff fluid? It's a trans out of a 2.4

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by GrandSport

while we're at it- do we have a preferred trans fluid and diff fluid?

I spoke in more detail in my build thread but Im using amsoil mtl for transmission and motul gear 300 ls in the diff.

I was using normal gear 300 in the transmission but swapped it out after reading a few threads here.

Doing another swap this weekend and sticking with amsoil mtl and gear 300 ls for the diff. I really like the way the transmission feels with the mtl.

Factory weights for everything

[M0nk3y]

Originally Posted by GrandSport

while we're at it- do we have a preferred trans fluid and diff fluid? It's a trans out of a 2.4

Redline MT-90 for the Transmission
Redline 75w140NS for the Diff

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by M0nk3y

Redline MT-90 for the Transmission
Redline 75w140NS for the Diff

If only Redline came in easy use bottles LOL. But yeah MT-90 is another great option

[cmiovino]

I've been a Motul fanboy for years. My 2004 WRX was autocrossed some 25+ events per year for 5+ years, plus daily driving. Motul served it well.

My 2017 BRZ had has been my autox car for 4 years now gets the same treatment, just a different viscosity for the engine oil.

Gear oil in both is the Motul 300 75w-90. I can't say I love the Gear 300 in the BRZ transmission. It's not bad, but it's not super great either. I've run Motul so long it's a mental leap to try something different.

Back in the day, like mid-2000's, you could get Motul at Subaru dealerships. They also did (and possibly still do) sponsor the Subaru rally teams.

Lately I've been all of the board looking into API certifications, independent tests, etc on just brands of oil and you can really go down a rabbit hole with brands, additives, oil analysis, etc. That's just why I picked one and stuck with it.