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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#1 |
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BRZ Automatic All Motor
Hi guys been doing research for a couple years now, and I have a 2016 BRZ Automatic. I Have numerous aftermarket parts for my car and was wondering do I NEED to have my valve diameter size changed? My goal is to create a N/A (ALL MOTOR) auto brz that is durable and street/track reliable. Below are the following parts I have currently. What are your thoughts/recommendations/suggestions? Should I leave the valve size alone, or increase exhaust valve size? Also I have read that you can reinforce the auto trans with a rebuild, what parts should i get for that? Or should I leave the trans alone too?
-Deatschwerks DW300C Series 340lph Compact Fuel Pump in Tank without Mounting Clips with Install Kit Subaru BRZ 13-15 -Fuel Injector Clinic 660cc Injector Set (High-Z) Subaru BRZ 2013-2020 -AutoPower 4Point Street Roll Bar Subaru BR-Z 13-15 -Spyder Auto LED Black Tail Lights Scion FR-S | Subaru BRZ 2013+ -Eibach Springs ANTI-ROLL-KIT (Both Front and Rear Sway Bars) -ISC Suspension N1 V2 Coilover Kit Street Sport Subaru BRZ | FRS | GT87 2013-2021 -Eibach Pro-Alignment Camber Arm Kit -Carbing Aluminum Front Tower Bar MCS Type I Toyota 86 | Subaru BRZ ZNA| ZCA 2013-2023 -HKS Pulley Upgrade Kit Subaru BRZ 2013-2020 -Mishimoto Racing Thermostat Subaru BRZ 2013+ -CSF Cooling - Racing & High Performance Division Scion FR-S|Subaru BRZ 2013-2022 -HPS High Temp Reinforced Silicone Radiator Hose Kit Blue Subaru BRZ 13-14 -Brian Crower Single Spring/Titanium Retainer/Seat Kit Subaru BRZ 2013-2018 | Scion FR-S 2013-2016 | Toyota GT86 4UGSE -APEXi N1 Evolution-R Muffler Dual Tip Subaru BRZ 13-16 -GrimmSpeed Exhaust Gasket Set Subaru BRZ | Toyota 86 | Scion FRS 2013-2021 -MagnaFlow Exhaust Products Manifold Catalytic Converter -ACL Subaru/Scion FA20 Standard Size w/ Extra Oil Clearance High Performance Rod Bearing Set -GReddy Blue Main V-Belt Scion|Subaru|Toyota -Perrin Engine Mount Kit Subaru Impreza | Subaru WRX | Subaru STI | Subaru Forester XT | Subaru Forester | Subaru BRZ | Subaru Legacy | Subaru Legacy GT | Scio FR-S | Toyota GT-86 -Cusco Sports Oil Filter Subaru BRZ 13-17 -Toda Heavy Duty Oil Pump Gear Toyota GTS-86 -GReddy 10 Row High Performance Oil Cooler Subaru | Scion | Toyota 2013-2021 -CP Piston & Ring Set Bore 86.5mm CR 12:5 Subaru BRZ FA20 2012-2016 -Cusco Direct Ignition Coil Set Subaru BRZ 13-16 -Cusco Pressure Relief Valve Subaru BRZ 13-17 -250A High Output Alternator for Subaru BRZ, 2013 - 2016 2.0L H4 (122c.i.) -SuperTech 74lb Valve Springs and Titanium Retainer Kit -APR Performance Carbon Fiber Aerodynamic Kit | Subaru BRZ 2022 -ATI SUPER HARMONIC STREET DAMPER - 2013+ FRS/BRZ -King Subaru FA20 FB20 - (Size STD) Performance Tri-Metal Main Bearing Set MB5745XPG -Darton MID™ Sleeves to Fit Scion™ / Seadoo™ / Subaru™ -SuperPro Master Bushing Kit for Scion FR-S & Subaru BRZ -GSC P-D +1mm (30mm) 23-8N Stainless Alloy Exhaust Valve Set Subaru BRZ | Scion FRS FA20 2014-2023 |
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#2 |
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Short answer: no, it's fine.
I'd recommend you reevaluate your parts list for your build though.
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#3 |
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What's wrong? Where did I mess up?
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Your comes pretty street and track reliable from the factory. Add hood vents and upgrade brakes/tires. Everything else is unnecessary. You really should double check your list and don't add anything to this list if you don't understand what it does. You have 2 sets of springs/retainers on here, sleeves, a pulley for a supercharger but you want to stay all motor... hmm
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Turbo FR-S Build - Build Thread
JDL EL Recirc manifold, Boostlab BL58x Turbo w/ T51R, 17x9 ARC-8, IAG block |
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#5 |
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BRZ Automatic All Motor
You are kind of all over the place. You don’t need the bigger fuel pump or injectors NA. The stock thermostat is fine. The rods are probably the weakest part of the stock rotating assembly. You don’t have rods in your build but you have pistons and sleeves ? NA, a built motor is really overkill, especially a sleeved one. Let your builder choose the rods and main bearings, they are going to want to size them anyway. Really, it’s just cheaper to buy a built block from someone like IAG. A built head with bigger valves is going to net you a small return for dollar. Have you gone to a shop like Headgames and seen what this type of work costs? I would recommend you be sitting down when you read the pricing sheet on their website. Why a high output alternator? Why spend all this money on a motor build but then not put a known quality header on the car? Why not flex fuel kit? Single biggest dollar for gain power mod you can do if you have e85 available to you. Why ICS coilovers? Why not something known to work well on this platform like RCE’s or CSG spec Flex A’s? Why a 4 point cage but no harness and seat? Or HANs for that matter. You list what tail lights and oil filter you are going to run but not tire/wheel combo or brake pads. Other items on your list also don’t make sense but a couple other things need answered first. Do you have previous track experience? What is done to the car currently?
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#6 |
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What is all that stuff?
I've been tracking for 5 yrs & all I have is: 1- Hawk Pads 2- high heat brake fluid 3- water/oil cooler 4- Gruppy-S UEL header 5- Yonaka cat back 6- OFT 7- ST coilovers 8- 720Form wheels 9- RS4 tires |
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#7 | |
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Quote:
Just buy a Porsche 911. It'll be cheaper and faster. |
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#9 |
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Also how do I swap the dual AC to the regular AC I like the push button start but I don't care for the dual AC, I just want it simple. Any ideas on how to go from dual to regular AC?
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#10 |
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Easiest way. Trade car with dual ac for car with regular ac.
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change the entire hvac system, control modules, and main wiring harnesses.
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Don't turn on Auto HVAC. It is now a manual single system like the rest.
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