Crank but won’t start after replacing clutch

[Farrisj25]

Hi everyone,

So I’ll try and make this short but I ended up replacing my clutch with a new throw out bearing and clutch fork all from act and versus since my throw out bearing went out from oem.

A few weeks after that it made some noise from the TOB and ended up taking it all back apart again got it back together and the car would crank but won’t start
Tried using ether and it wanted to crank over but just couldn’t..

(Note I did take the plate off from behind the FW. I made sure not to turn the FW when loosing or tightening as it did a little bit but not much)

So I took it all part to make sure I did everything correctly and I did so at this point I’m kinda stumped and done messing with it. Before I take it to a shop and spend $600 - $1000 what could this be and how can I save money and fix the issue?

If it’s the crank sensor and it got turned to much or whatever the case may be what do I need to do or is there to much involved and just have a mechanic deal with it?

Please send as much info as can.

Much appreciated.

Just fyi it started and ran fine before I took the trans off again.

[NoHaveMSG]

Are you sure you put the reluctor wheel on correctly and not backwards?


FYI you also posted in the classifieds section.

[Farrisj25]

Yes. Teeth towards the motor and not the fly wheel.

[Farrisj25]

My bad I’m new here and didn’t know. Never posted on a forum before

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Farrisj25

Hi everyone,

So I’ll try and make this short but I ended up replacing my clutch with a new throw out bearing and clutch fork all from act and versus since my throw out bearing went out from oem.

A few weeks after that it made some noise from the TOB and ended up taking it all back apart again got it back together and the car would crank but won’t start
Tried using ether and it wanted to crank over but just couldn’t..

(Note I did take the plate off from behind the FW. I made sure not to turn the FW when loosing or tightening as it did a little bit but not much)

So I took it all part to make sure I did everything correctly and I did so at this point I’m kinda stumped and done messing with it. Before I take it to a shop and spend $600 - $1000 what could this be and how can I save money and fix the issue?

If it’s the crank sensor and it got turned to much or whatever the case may be what do I need to do or is there to much involved and just have a mechanic deal with it?

Please send as much info as can.

Much appreciated.

Just fyi it started and ran fine before I took the trans off again.

Hi ya, Farrisj25,

What "FW" are you referring to?
(Note I did take the plate off from behind the FW. I made sure not to turn the FW when loosing or tightening as it did a little bit but not much).

What did the crank sensor have to do with replacing the clutch?

I'm all

[Farrisj25]

It’s a silver plate with teeth and holes in it. I’m just wondering if me taking off that plate would mess with the crank sensor. Since some videos I’ve watched said don’t take it off but I’ve seen some people take it off and it be fine. So I’m just clueless at this point why my car won’t start.

[Grady]

Possibly damaged the crank position sensor? Or something else. I would inspect everything in and around the transmission. From there disconnect the battery for a while to reset everything. Replace crank sensor.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Farrisj25

If it’s the crank sensor and it got turned to much or whatever the case may be what do I need to do or is there to much involved and just have a mechanic deal with it?

It's possible that it got damaged, but not probable. The cranks sensor is pretty easy to get to and it is not a super sensitive part to handling. Would be worth checking. You can ohm the sensor. Not definitive, but a check.

https://gt86stuff.onrender.com/t3Por..._rm_index.html

Originally Posted by Farrisj25

Yes. Teeth towards the motor and not the fly wheel.

Are you sure it is in phase though? We have seen guys not get the reluctor wheel lined up with the pin on the crank before as well as having the reluctor backwards. I think the pin may be removable, not 100% sure. So it's possible it accidently got pulled out. It doesn't stick up that far and it is possible that you can tighten everything down over the top of it in place. Here is a thread where this happened.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130261

I would give everything a good double check before tearing anything apart, but this would be my guess. You may be able to pull the little rubber inspection port off the bell housing and have someone else crank the car to see if the reluctor or flywheel is wobbling. That would be a good indication of it being over the top of the pin.

[Farrisj25]

I lined the wheel up with the what some call the lock pin where that wheel has a small hole in it but what concerned me was if that pin was smashed in or soemthing it sticks out very little. And when I disassembled it the 2nd time (when I double checked everything after it wouldn’t start. The pin was in the hole.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Farrisj25

I lined the wheel up with the what some call the lock pin where that wheel has a small hole in it but what concerned me was if that pin was smashed in or soemthing it sticks out very little. And when I disassembled it the 2nd time (when I double checked everything after it wouldn’t start. The pin was in the hole.

Then I would check out the CPS like you originally thought, if that doesn't do it make sure everything is connected properly, DI driver bolted down tight.

[Farrisj25]

If it is and if I do replace it with a new one. Will I need to do anything more serious or would I need to take it to a mechanic for them to reset everything and such. Not to familiar what happens if the CPS got off track or damaged

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Farrisj25

If it is and if I do replace it with a new one. Will I need to do anything more serious or would I need to take it to a mechanic for them to reset everything and such. Not to familiar what happens if the CPS got off track or damaged

No, it's a straight R&R. Not too hard to get to. Will be hard to see and touch at the same time. Manifold is a bit in the way.

[Farrisj25]

Okay thanks. I mean it shouldn’t be too difficult then since I have the trans off and car jacked up atm.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

No, it's a straight R&R. Not too hard to get to. Will be hard to see and touch at the same time.

Ew... At least until it's cleaned up.