Is it my driving or is it the pads?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Matt93SE

GIVE ME STICK OR GIVE ME DEATH! I don't care if it's slower. Driving a GTR is like a freaking video game- it's just not real. turn the wheel, mash the gas mid corner, noise happens, flip little paddle on the steering wheel, different noise happens, brain smashes into the seat, car stays on track. no. unpossible!

Funny, because that's how a street GT-R is, but not the Racecar GT-R

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by TommyW

I've been using PowerstopTrackday pads since I started doing track days. I went through a set my first 3 days I now get 7 or more. I attribute it to better braking and general driving technique and not using the nannies.

In your humble opinion: What constitutes "better braking"?

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

In your humble opinion: What constitutes "better braking"?

Thinking back, I'd say it's spending less time on the brakes and rolling more speed through the corners.

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by TommyW

Thinking back, I'd say it's spending less time on the brakes and rolling more speed through the corners.

I know that I'm beating this thread to death but, if you are spending less time on the brakes, that would imply that you are braking harder for a shorter period and which seems to be contributing to longer pad life. Correct?

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

I know that I'm beating this thread to death but, if you are spending less time on the brakes, that would imply that you are braking harder for a shorter period and which seems to be contributing to longer pad life. Correct?

less time on hard braking. Hitting hard then rolling off right away but smoothly and carrying more speed into the corners rather than staying longer at max braking and causing all sorts of weight management issues.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

I know that I'm beating this thread to death but, if you are spending less time on the brakes, that would imply that you are braking harder for a shorter period and which seems to be contributing to longer pad life. Correct?

What he said ^^^. I've seen speed traces where some are able to get more OFF the brakes earlier and make up 2-3 tenths in some corners relative to drivers in similar cars trail-braking deeper into the turn.

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by ZDan

What he said ^^^. I've seen speed traces where some are able to get more OFF the brakes earlier and make up 2-3 tenths in some corners relative to drivers in similar cars trail-braking deeper into the turn.

it’s amazing how much faster it is to have the car balanced in turns rather than entering with your hair on fire and then trying to hit the apex

[andyk5]

Rounding up the thread here, Bought XP12s and did 4-5 track days. Still have half the pad. Initial bite is meh but does stop better than stocks and lasts 5x more. Squeaks pretty bad even after proper bed in, which wears off after a week of daily driving.


Next I am gonna try CSGs. I have a feeling I won’t get the bite I am looking for until I get BBK.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by andyk5

Rounding up the thread here, Bought XP12s and did 4-5 track days. Still have half the pad. Initial bite is meh but does stop better than stocks and lasts 5x more. Squeaks pretty bad even after proper bed in, which wears off after a week of daily driving.


Next I am gonna try CSGs. I have a feeling I won’t get the bite I am looking for until I get BBK.

BBK is more heat capacity, not more bite. If you are getting more “bite” from BBK it probably shifted brake bias forward some. Try different pad compounds. I hated carbotechs.

[andyk5]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

BBK is more heat capacity, not more bite. If you are getting more “bite” from BBK it probably shifted brake bias forward some. Try different pad compounds. I hated carbotechs.

That actually makes sense, though i thought more pistons and greater pad area would help with bite as well…I mean physics says given everything else the same, increased are would be multiplied with the same k constant(which changes after the initial bite), providing more immediate resistive force.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by andyk5

That actually makes sense, though i thought more pistons and greater pad area would help with bite as well…I mean physics says given everything else the same, increased are would be multiplied with the same k constant(which changes after the initial bite), providing more immediate resistive force.

More pistons doesn't equal more piston surface area applying clamping force.

The chart in this link is known to have some errors but will give you an idea.
https://www.pointmeby.com/2016/09/24...z-frs-gt86-86/

Pad area doesn't equate to more clamping force applied to the rotor, the force per square inch is actually less on a larger pad vs smaller pad given the same clamping force.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by andyk5

Rounding up the thread here, Bought XP12s and did 4-5 track days. Still have half the pad. Initial bite is meh but does stop better than stocks and lasts 5x more. Squeaks pretty bad even after proper bed in, which wears off after a week of daily driving.


Next I am gonna try CSGs. I have a feeling I won’t get the bite I am looking for until I get BBK.

For me, CSG C2 >>> Carbotech XP10 for "bite". Also they last a lot longer. Started running them a couple of years ago and while initial $$$ is high, they last long enough to offset that. Even if they didn't I greatly prefer them to anything else I've run at the track. With the PP Brembos I get like 18 track days out of 'em? Unreal...

[Matt93SE]

Originally Posted by andyk5

Rounding up the thread here, Bought XP12s and did 4-5 track days. Still have half the pad. Initial bite is meh but does stop better than stocks and lasts 5x more. Squeaks pretty bad even after proper bed in, which wears off after a week of daily driving.


Next I am gonna try CSGs. I have a feeling I won’t get the bite I am looking for until I get BBK.

Almost every track pad is going to squeal on the street. The compounds are designed to work starting at several hundred degrees, not 50-200F like you usually see during street driving. Using race pads at these temps wears off all the pad materials embedded into the rotor via abrasive friction instead of adhesive friction like when they're warmer-- you're essentially stopping the car with a brick mashed onto your rotor (this is why you use the outlap to warm up the car which includes getting the tires and brakes up to their happy temperature range. ).

Track pads for the track, street pads for the street.

[Tokay444]

Love the initial bite and firm pedal of my CGS C1/C11 combo.