KPower Industries K24 swap

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by ML

Here is a video of me getting some kills and a new PB at VIR today.

Any details on what looks like a DIY coolsuit?

I didn't really expect a difference from the pressure sensor with the sensor ground, but looking at the data you're right, it seems that it has changed.

[ML]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Any details on what looks like a DIY coolsuit?

I didn't really expect a difference from the pressure sensor with the sensor ground, but looking at the data you're right, it seems that it has changed.

They share the signal ground on that sensor is why.


Engel cooler on amazon is literally the same one the official coolsuit uses for $70, bought the official coolsuit Nomex shirt, and a $20 bilge pump and a shit ton of epoxy sealant without remorse. couple of hoses, mounted it to a spare seat base but flipped backwards to make it level, and its a game changer.

[captain awesome]

Since we are sharing vids. This is from an autocross around early May?

[ML]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Since we are sharing vids. This is from an autocross around early May?

How does this setup do in autocross? I would think the lower FD would really help too or are you on the 4.1?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

How does this setup do in autocross? I would think the lower FD would really help too or are you on the 4.1?

So far I love it in autocross. I did swap to the 4.3, suspension is CSG Teins, MY17 rear sway bar, SPL rear LCAs, and Verus Toe links. I'm running Pilot Sport 4s so I'm sure with a proper 200tw it would be even quicker. As is though I've been mostly in top 10 raw times locally. This is on 91 as I still haven't dipped my toes into the corn juice. Probably just wait until my built block is finished.

[RedReplicant]

Shortened driveshaft is a very big improvement, the only noise / vibration back there is also present in my blue BRZ Happy with the change.

I would prooooobably say I should have left another 1/2" for a total shortening of 5", but it should be fine as-is.

Oh, also, I figured I was on new enough firmware that the fuel gauge was fixed. Fueled with a little under 1/2" tank, I expected to put 6 gal or so in. Took 11.2 gal, lol. I'm on 3.05.1

2x M10 15mm spacers
2x M10x1.25-60 bolts
2x M10 split washers
2x M10 fender washers

[Irace86.2.0]

Good to know about the fuel gauge.

I’ll probably do the shortened stock driveshaft when I do a transmission upgrade.

[FrickingReallySlow]

Btw, what's the length of the aluminum driveshaft you were trying to match up to? looking at captain awesome's pictures his shorten one looked really snug to the trans tail bushing. probably 2 piece has to be a bit longer to account for the angle in the middle.

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Shortened driveshaft is a very big improvement, the only noise / vibration back there is also present in my blue BRZ Happy with the change.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Shortened driveshaft is a very big improvement, the only noise / vibration back there is also present in my blue BRZ Happy with the change.

I would prooooobably say I should have left another 1/2" for a total shortening of 5", but it should be fine as-is.

Oh, also, I figured I was on new enough firmware that the fuel gauge was fixed. Fueled with a little under 1/2" tank, I expected to put 6 gal or so in. Took 11.2 gal, lol. I'm on 3.05.1

2x M10 15mm spacers
2x M10x1.25-60 bolts
2x M10 split washers
2x M10 fender washers

Yours definitely looks shorter than mine. Either my notes are off or they ended up taking too much off? Either way I "think" you may be okay. Glad to hear there was a noticeable difference.


Edit: It also looks like both of the dust shields are missing on your setup. The tail of your trans should have one and the one on the stock driveshaft. Missing both probably makes it look worse than it is. When I took measurements for shortening I went off of where the tailshaft seal mark was on the stock one to see how deep the slip yoke went. It was surprising that it was maybe halfway?

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Yours definitely looks shorter than mine. Either my notes are off or they ended up taking too much off? Either way I "think" you may be okay. Glad to hear there was a noticeable difference.


Edit: It also looks like both of the dust shields are missing on your setup. The tail of your trans should have one and the one on the stock driveshaft. Missing both probably makes it look worse than it is. When I took measurements for shortening I went off of where the tailshaft seal mark was on the stock one to see how deep the slip yoke went. It was surprising that it was maybe halfway?

Should be the same length as yours. I also think it is fine though, not really worried about it.

I knew the dust shield on the driveshaft side was missing, but I didn't realize the trans was supposed to have one too. Whoops, makes a lot of sense now.

I wish they'd given me back the old yoke so I had a transmission plug, another whoops.

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Btw, what's the length of the aluminum driveshaft you were trying to match up to? looking at captain awesome's pictures his shorten one looked really snug to the trans tail bushing. probably 2 piece has to be a bit longer to account for the angle in the middle.

I'll measure it later. For shortening, I think the way is to measure from the centerline of the center support bearing to the seal on the transmission output, iirc that is 14" with the stock trans / kpower mounts.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Shortened driveshaft is a very big improvement, the only noise / vibration back there is also present in my blue BRZ Happy with the change.

I would prooooobably say I should have left another 1/2" for a total shortening of 5", but it should be fine as-is.

Oh, also, I figured I was on new enough firmware that the fuel gauge was fixed. Fueled with a little under 1/2" tank, I expected to put 6 gal or so in. Took 11.2 gal, lol. I'm on 3.05.1

2x M10 15mm spacers
2x M10x1.25-60 bolts
2x M10 split washers
2x M10 fender washers

Thanks for the update - sounds like I will be doing this myself. So you shortened it 5.5", but thinking you should have only shortened it 5"?

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Thanks for the update - sounds like I will be doing this myself. So you shortened it 5.5", but thinking you should have only shortened it 5"?

It seems like 5.5" is working for captain awesome and I. I do think it is worth measuring though

Played with rev matching with Haltech today, be careful if you set the min speed too low and also try to set it up in a big parking lot. Almost pissed myself the first time I got it working, it added a way, way too much throttle slowing down for a stop sign on a 2-1 shift.

[funkjaw]

Anyone think about doing something like this on the N/A setup?



My reasoning is every bend in an intake system kills power - proven on Engine Masters ep. 99. Wonder if K-power played around with this or not on the dyno when they were doing design?

[RedReplicant]

I think that topic came up earlier in the thread somewhere, but the short answer is that K series have a proven history of preferring a longer intake tube. The couple of whp you lose at the very peak are more than made up for everywhere else.