KPower Industries K24 swap

[RedReplicant]

Nice flat curve Curious what it'd make on a dynojet.

After screwing around with the kpower flex fuel kit today it is my suggestion to not give them your money and make one yourself. The line length and patch harness leave your literal only option as the flex sensor hanging in the air or ziptied to the clutch master hard line, it is actual bullshit.

I put it back in a box and I'll make something myself.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Nice flat curve Curious what it'd make on a dynojet.

After screwing around with the kpower flex fuel kit today it is my suggestion to not give them your money and make one yourself. The line length and patch harness leave your literal only option as the flex sensor hanging in the air or ziptied to the clutch master hard line, it is actual bullshit.

Oh yeah nah I totally agree. Having at least another foot of host/wire would have been very nice. But for me it's not a big deal as my car is just a daily driver with many zip ties already in the engine bay haha

[Irace86.2.0]

I emailed Kpower about a fuel gauge update from Haltech. They said they think they will release something soon, but they also mentioned needing to do an update during their last session, so maybe it was patched. Has anyone had a chance to do the latest update who can confirm anything?

[funkjaw]

Does anyone know which pins on their flex fuel kit harness are used in the ECU? My tuner is asking for this so he can get the flex fuel going....

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Does anyone know which pins on their flex fuel kit harness are used in the ECU? My tuner is asking for this so he can get the flex fuel going....

NVM found in on their website:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/11...f?v=1647444499

[RedReplicant]

So, for anyone else running an AIM DL.

If you run connected to the OBD cable or BRZ CAN you can pull most of (but not all) of the stock CAN data. Things like temperatures don't work for whatever reason (Haltech probably doesn't have them set up right in their CAN lookup) and the AIM still does that annoying thing where it will constantly turn on even when the car is off.

The alternative is to connect to the Haltech AUX CAN and then you get all of the data that Haltech would normally issue over CAN. The wideband that comes with our kit has an extra DTM connector that you can connect something to, so that is what I did.

If you have an OBD cable for you AIM you can just cut the thing off and pin the wires to a DTM6-4S connector, they are the same internally as the flying lead cable that AIM sells. The colors shown here match the colors of the wires in the AIM harness too.

As a bonus, the AIM doesn't turn itself on when the car is off anymore either.

[redlined600]

Do you lose the chassis data then like wheel speed, steering angle, brake pressure, ect...?

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by redlined600

Do you lose the chassis data then like wheel speed, steering angle, brake pressure, ect...?

No, they are rebroadcast by the Haltech.

[Irace86.2.0]

No one has done the update and can verify if the fuel gauge is working better? I'm hesitant about doing the update, as I don't have wifi or cellular in the garage, so I need to go do the update remotely.

[captain awesome]

I've been reluctant to do any updates lately as it seems all others are having issues and having to revert back. My car has also been down still messing with the a/c crap so there's no rush for me at this point.

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

No, they are rebroadcast by the Haltech.

This is extremely helpful. Thanks!

[RedReplicant]

I've heard of a couple more cracked headers with flex sections through the grapevine. Stock S2000 has a solid brace to the motor, wondering if this is something we're going to need to figure out.

edit: also, the header to midpipe flange hitting the chassis

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

I've heard of a couple more cracked headers with flex sections through the grapevine. Stock S2000 has a solid brace to the motor, wondering if this is something we're going to need to figure out.

edit: also, the header to midpipe flange hitting the chassis

Does the mid pipe have the exhaust hanger and bracket shown in the installation guide pictures at the bottom, but not seen directly below in the product picture? I ask because that might make a difference. The stock manifolds tend to have support brackets, but they are typically heavier or cast, which crack after repeated heat cycles more than tubular headers (I believe). I feel like there must be thousands and thousands of headers that don't have support brackets and just have a flex pipe section. I would want to see the location of the cracks, and then I could ask myself if this was a weld failure issue or a stress issue.

You could add support braces if you have access to a welder (person or device). It is fairly easy. Just take some exhaust pipe of the same diameter and cut a square out and weld a rod to that piece and then weld the whole square to the manifold and repeat with a flat piece of thick sheetmetal to the side of the block.

[RedReplicant]

The most recent one I saw was using the hanger and a Perrin flex pipe exhaust, it completely separated at the last weld before the flange on the header side. Seems like a weld issue to me.

There is also something to be said about the motor twisting on the motor mounts, header to midpipe flange bottoming against the chassis, and putting stress on everything.

I got these pictures from someone that is a friend of the owner, not sure if they are on the forum here too.