Catted front pipe and mid pipe recomenations

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I have one, it's not bad with it.

So the general consensus is live with the midpipe? Even with the little kink? I guess if it made that much difference, JDL and Nameless would make one.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

So the general consensus is live with the midpipe? Even with the little kink? I guess if it made that much difference, JDL and Nameless would make one.

A cat back is only worth a couple HP so I don't think it's a big deal. I run the stock mid with a nameless track pipe.

[mav1178]

worth a read..
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103125

[blsfrs]

I went with the 2.5 catted Nameless with the resonator. I had to Google to find out what Helmsholtz resonance is and how it might work. I gather it is why there's a sound when you blow in a bottle but how it works in an exhaust system evades my brain cells.



Fitment is fairly good. The overpipe portion wasn't exactly in the center of the space. If I had used their 3" pipe, it might have rubbed the bottom of the head. The front flange could be a little thicker. It's quieter than what I took off. It did not come with new hardware. Nameless advised reusing bolts and gaskets.


And NO, that is not Tommy's blood on the sawhorse.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

I went with the 2.5 catted Nameless with the resonator. I had to Google to find out what Helmsholtz resonance is and how it might work. I gather it is why there's a sound when you blow in a bottle but how it works in an exhaust system evades my brain cells.



Fitment is fairly good. The overpipe portion wasn't exactly in the center of the space. If I had used their 3" pipe, it might have rubbed the bottom of the head. The front flange could be a little thicker. It's quieter than what I took off. It did not come with new hardware. Nameless advised reusing bolts and gaskets.


And NO, that is not Tommy's blood on the sawhorse.

If you get a chance I would replace the nuts on the header to overpipe connection with some crimped lock nuts, also called top locks, or distorted lock nuts. They like to work loose and those hold much better. You can use 3/8's there instead of 10mm as they are more commonly available if you replace the bolts too. Just don't use stainless or you will never get it off without cutting it. That connection likes to come loose on aftermarket setups for some reason.