I know it's been asked but p0018

[spiffiestpenguin]

Hi guys, I have a question. My car threw the p0018 code when I was backing out of a parking spot. The car went into limp mode and I've already looked up what's going on and such. And I already have seen the posts here about the timing and sprockets and ECU replacement. My car is a 2013 Scion frs and it is my daily. I really need this car to commute to my job it is a 40 minutes highway drive back and forth. I've read that this can be a pretty costly repair. My question is before I go ahead and tear everything down to check my timing to see if that's what the issue is, are there any faster/cheaper things to test first. It seems pretty prominent that it's the sprocket's and ECU that will need to be replaced just from what I have read but I want to rule out the easier cheaper things before I tear it down. And I'm going to reset the CEL first to see if it comes back. Just curious what the most cost efficient way to go about this is. I have always worked on my own cars but this one I have never had to do anything except check the oil so I am very unfamiliar with these cars other than driving. Thanks for any info

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by spiffiestpenguin

Hi guys, I have a question. My car threw the p0018 code when I was backing out of a parking spot. The car went into limp mode and I've already looked up what's going on and such. And I already have seen the posts here about the timing and sprockets and ECU replacement. My car is a 2013 Scion frs and it is my daily. I really need this car to commute to my job it is a 40 minutes highway drive back and forth. I've read that this can be a pretty costly repair. My question is before I go ahead and tear everything down to check my timing to see if that's what the issue is, are there any faster/cheaper things to test first. It seems pretty prominent that it's the sprocket's and ECU that will need to be replaced just from what I have read but I want to rule out the easier cheaper things before I tear it down. And I'm going to reset the CEL first to see if it comes back. Just curious what the most cost efficient way to go about this is. I have always worked on my own cars but this one I have never had to do anything except check the oil so I am very unfamiliar with these cars other than driving. Thanks for any info

It is "possible" that it is as "simple" as the sensor being out of position.
Repair procedure for that is here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1378232133

Beyond that you are getting into bigger problems.

[spiffiestpenguin]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

It is "possible" that it is as "simple" as the sensor being out of position.
Repair procedure for that is here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1378232133

Beyond that you are getting into bigger problems.

Thank you...that's what I thought but I figured I would ask before I get too deep into this. I will try that today and see what I come up with. Thank you for the reply

[Tcoat]

Here are the service manuals if you have to dive deeper.

https://gt86stuff.onrender.com/t3Portal/

[Ultramaroon]

I would start by removing the AVCS solenoid and working the valve with a screwdriver to see if it's jammed. Don't drive it like that. Hopefully, the learned value in that init table hasn't yet swung too far out of whack.

[7 skulls]

Had this code show up with a low battery/loose negative connection.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by spiffiestpenguin

Hi guys, I have a question. My car threw the p0018 code when I was backing out of a parking spot. The car went into limp mode and I've already looked up what's going on and such. And I already have seen the posts here about the timing and sprockets and ECU replacement. My car is a 2013 Scion frs and it is my daily. I really need this car to commute to my job it is a 40 minutes highway drive back and forth. I've read that this can be a pretty costly repair. My question is before I go ahead and tear everything down to check my timing to see if that's what the issue is, are there any faster/cheaper things to test first. It seems pretty prominent that it's the sprocket's and ECU that will need to be replaced just from what I have read but I want to rule out the easier cheaper things before I tear it down. And I'm going to reset the CEL first to see if it comes back. Just curious what the most cost efficient way to go about this is. I have always worked on my own cars but this one I have never had to do anything except check the oil so I am very unfamiliar with these cars other than driving. Thanks for any info

Bubba says a code reader can make the code go away (maybe not stay away). Also, he suggests you unplug it and then plug it back in and let it reboot - oh, wait, that's what he does with his computer, running windows 3.1. Remove the negative battery wire, count to 47, then put it back in. Maybe your system just hiccupped -

[Ultramaroon]

I wouldn't fuck around with it. The fewer starts with a jammed valve, the better. Once that learned initial value table is thrown too far out of whack, it's "Adios, ECU."

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I wouldn't fuck around with it. The fewer starts with a jammed valve, the better. Once that learned initial value table is thrown too far out of whack, it's "Adios, ECU."

THIS ^^^^^

Once those learned values are in there you are screwed and the ECU needs replaced.

[blsfrs]

Is there any datalog values that can be looked at to confirm that the valve is jammed vs a sensor problem?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

Is there any datalog values that can be looked at to confirm that the valve is jammed vs a sensor problem?

Yeah, you should be able to monitor cam position.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

Is there any datalog values that can be looked at to confirm that the valve is jammed vs a sensor problem?

Yes. The current and duty cycle of that solenoid will be abnormally high as the system tries in vain to push the valve. Those values can be monitored in real time with techstream and with OBDLink software. Techstream can be used to test the servos by manually slewing the valve timing out of whack in both directions.