Simplest way to add camber

[Scoobtothenoog]

Ok guys so help me out here. I was trying to follow but got a little lost. Early on dsc pat mentioned swapping the lower crash bolt and the upper larger collared bolt. Is that correct, or does the lower smaller oe "crash bolt" stay in the lower hole and another set of crash bolts needs to be ordered to go in the top hole?
Also afterward I just need to force the hub at the top as far as I can before touqueing it down correct?? Will I need an alignment after, since no other changes are being made?

[dragoontwo]

You can put another set of the smaller bolts in the upper hole, or you can put the lower bolts in the upper hole and camber bolts in the lower hole.

In reality, I think there are 6 options.

Upper camber bolt.
Lower camber bolt.
Crash bolts in upper.
Crash bolts in upper, camber bolts lower.
Upper camber bolts, lower camber bolts.
Stock.

[cpxchewy]

Originally Posted by dragoontwo

You can put another set of the smaller bolts in the upper hole, or you can put the lower bolts in the upper hole and camber bolts in the lower hole.

In reality, I think there are 6 options.

Upper camber bolt.
Lower camber bolt.
Crash bolts in upper.
Crash bolts in upper, camber bolts lower.
Upper camber bolts, lower camber bolts.
Stock.

I'm going to assume:

Upper camber bolt, lower camber bolt > crash bolt in upper, camber bolt in lower > lower camber bolt > upper camber bolt > crash bolt in upper

in terms of how much negative camber can one get from the config? Also dual camber bolt isn't the safest?

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by Scoobtothenoog

Ok guys so help me out here. I was trying to follow but got a little lost. Early on dsc pat mentioned swapping the lower crash bolt and the upper larger collared bolt. Is that correct, or does the lower smaller oe "crash bolt" stay in the lower hole and another set of crash bolts needs to be ordered to go in the top hole?
Also afterward I just need to force the hub at the top as far as I can before touqueing it down correct?? Will I need an alignment after, since no other changes are being made?

Best bang for buck is buying SPC 81305 lower bolt, then taking the stock lower bolt you removed and replacing the upper bolt with it. Nets roughly 2° camber.

You can also pair the 81305 lower bolt with 81280 upper lobbed bolt. Some say this is less safe. Opinions vary.

Adding 1° camber you can either:
- Change lower bolt with SPC 81305
- Change upper bolt with OEM crash bolt (from dealer)
- Change upper bolt with SPC 81280


Alignment is a good idea. Verify camber settings and check/make adjustments to toe.
If you have aftermarket wheels make sure to check clearance from the top of the wheel to lower spring perch. Adding camber this way shift the wheel closer to the strut.

[dragoontwo]

Originally Posted by cpxchewy

I'm going to assume:

Upper camber bolt, lower camber bolt > crash bolt in upper, camber bolt in lower > lower camber bolt > upper camber bolt > crash bolt in upper

in terms of how much negative camber can one get from the config? Also dual camber bolt isn't the safest?

It really is car dependent. People have had different amounts with the same setup. With my '20, I had -1.9 both sides with lower camber bolts and lower bolts up top.

Don't forget about the pedders top hats also.

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by BlueWhelan

For what it's worth, I was running the SPC cam bolts in the lower hole and Pedders top hats. I got -2.2 up front before I started rubbing tire (235/45/17). With spacers I could've seen over -2.5.

I liked the extra caster too from the Pedders.

I tried to source a set back in February/March when I installed B6s but they were on backorder for 2-3 months.
Maybe next year
The idea of ripping apart my struts for a third time is Less appealing

[Scoobtothenoog]

Thanks guys. That's exactly what I needed!

[BlueWhelan]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

I tried to source a set back in February/March when I installed B6s but they were on backorder for 2-3 months.
Maybe next year
The idea of ripping apart my struts for a third time is Less appealing

I actually recently took mine off the car because they aren’t legal in SCCA solo spec coupe class. They are currently mounted to a set of TS springs/dampers. Not sure if I’m gonna sell them or keep them at this point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[beat1]

Anyone confirmed if aftermarkets gen1 rear LCA fits the gen2 ?

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by Scoobtothenoog

Will I need an alignment after, since no other changes are being made?

Adding camber in the front will cause toe in — you're basically turning the knuckle relative to the diagonal axis going through the LCA joint and the tie rod joint when you change camber. If the camber change is significant, it is useful to check the toe. Also, some alignment shops might be able to squeeze out a few more tenths of a degree of camber for you.

[Strat_FRS]

Originally Posted by beat1

Anyone confirmed if aftermarkets gen1 rear LCA fits the gen2 ?

Bought a set for ours to go in with coils ... we will find out shortly but the parts catalogue indicates they are the same.

[DocWalt]

I installed the OEM crash bolts. I got around -1.3 degrees of camber on both sides with my camber gauge. Toe was nearly unchanged, as it was on the first gen.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I installed the OEM crash bolts. I got around -1.3 degrees of camber on both sides with my camber gauge. Toe was nearly unchanged, as it was on the first gen.

Same part number as last gen?

[SpectreRT]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

Same part number as last gen?

Same part as last gen. I got 1.2 on one side and 1.4 on the other.