Subaru field engineer says OEM wheel studs only good for 75 to 80 wheel changes

[abyssFT86]

Sorry to bring this one back from the dead, but two questions:

1. Is this issue likely to happen if you don't swap wheels frequently? I'm going to put on some Apex 17x9s and leave them on year round. I'll torque them down between runs at the track by hand, probably 1-2 track days /mo. Probably only doing one or two removals per year for tires/pads.

2. Have the newer model years rectified this issue at all? I have a 2020 just bought earlier this year.

Happy to upgrade to the ARP lugs if needed but from the above not really clear that it is necessary.

[EAGLE5]

Originally Posted by abyssFT86

Sorry to bring this one back from the dead, but two questions:

1. Is this issue likely to happen if you don't swap wheels frequently? I'm going to put on some Apex 17x9s and leave them on year round. I'll torque them down between runs at the track by hand, probably 1-2 track days /mo. Probably only doing one or two removals per year for tires/pads.

2. Have the newer model years rectified this issue at all? I have a 2020 just bought earlier this year.

Happy to upgrade to the ARP lugs if needed but from the above not really clear that it is necessary.

Somebody early on in my ownership overtorqued all of my lugs. Was it the tire company or a dealer or the factory? I don't know, but I've replaced maybe ten bolts in 30k miles. They have been failing one or two at a time. Currently one is bad. I'll be replacing all the lugs and nuts soon, with upgraded parts. Pain in the fucking ass.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by abyssFT86

Sorry to bring this one back from the dead, but two questions:

1. Is this issue likely to happen if you don't swap wheels frequently? I'm going to put on some Apex 17x9s and leave them on year round. I'll torque them down between runs at the track by hand, probably 1-2 track days /mo. Probably only doing one or two removals per year for tires/pads.

2. Have the newer model years rectified this issue at all? I have a 2020 just bought earlier this year.

Happy to upgrade to the ARP lugs if needed but from the above not really clear that it is necessary.

I just carry spares and the tools to do the job. Eventually I'll probably find the energy to just swap them... Maybe. Think I should just go standard length though, half my spares are extended...

[Ultramaroon]

Bummer. Once they've been stretched, they're done. I've had zero issues but I keep them clean and have been careful from day-1.

Not saying others aren't. I've been expecting a failure but it just hasn't happened.

[timurrrr]

I just preventively swapped all studs when it was time for me to change rotors.
I was super-careful with them, but still one of them started falling apart before that.

[DarkSunrise]

I’m surprised I haven’t had this issue yet. I’ve got a 2013 MY. I try to be careful with my studs, but I wonder if it’s because I switched out to black gorilla lugs early on.

[Ultramaroon]

The stubby acorn nuts don't have very deep threads.

minimum aspect ratio is minimum.

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by abyssFT86

Sorry to bring this one back from the dead, but two questions:

1. Is this issue likely to happen if you don't swap wheels frequently? I'm going to put on some Apex 17x9s and leave them on year round. I'll torque them down between runs at the track by hand, probably 1-2 track days /mo. Probably only doing one or two removals per year for tires/pads.

2. Have the newer model years rectified this issue at all? I have a 2020 just bought earlier this year.

Happy to upgrade to the ARP lugs if needed but from the above not really clear that it is necessary.

2017 here. I ended up finding a completely crossthreaded lug nut this weekend at an autocross event 3 hours away. I will admit, I was the last one to touch them, but have only rotated the wheels ONCE myself on this car this autox season. Shop installed the tires earlier this year.

Last year I had the wheels off maybe 5 times max. I doubt the previous owner was swapping them. I'd say a total of 15 times on/off and the wheels studs are disintegrating all around, not just with that one.


Every time you remove a lug nut, little sparkles come off and over time, you have less and less material there, which leads to crossthreading. It appears not to be fixed with the newer models.


On my 2004 WRX, which I've some years swapped tires 20+ times a year, I still have all the stock studs. I've never crossthreaded or broken one. I've changed wheels in the rain, when hot after driving, in garages or out at the track/autocross. Zero issues. BRZ studs are not the same material at all IMO.


I'd recommend changing them all to ARP or at least the Dorman ones. THe Dorman ones are cheaper at $50 for a full set of 20 vs $180ish for ARP normal length ones. I'll probably go the Dorman route all around myself. You can tell the ARP and Dorman ones are a different material as they are yellow-ish looking vs the stock silver color. I talked to a few autocrossers using the Dorman ones with good results.

[NLSP]

Originally Posted by DarkSunrise

I’m surprised I haven’t had this issue yet. I’ve got a 2013 MY. I try to be careful with my studs, but I wonder if it’s because I switched out to black gorilla lugs early on.

+1 on being surprised...I have a 2014 with 92k miles. Original studs (and original TOB lol) still, using McGard Splinedrives most of its life.

[DarkSunrise]

Originally Posted by NLSP

+1 on being surprised...I have a 2014 with 92k miles. Original studs (and original TOB lol) still, using McGard Splinedrives most of its life.

I'm more shocked that your original TOB is still going strong!

[steverife]

I don't think it is really cross threading, unless you are gunning nuts on without hand starting them. The threads get contaminated with dirt/grime/shaving or get deformed from dragging wheels across them.

I couldn't get ARP's at the time that I needed to swap, but I actually swapped out to M12x1.5 Dorman. Part number 610-414 has the same knurl diameter and basically the same length. I also started carrying a die/chaser, so I can be proactive about things if I spin a nut on and it feels bad.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by steverife

I don't think it is really cross threading, unless you are gunning nuts on without hand starting them. The threads get contaminated with dirt/grime/shaving or get deformed from dragging wheels across them.

i really think this is what really does it. the only times my wheels get an air gun is when getting new tires(3 times now, but about 10 times changing wheels overall). every other time, it's by hand, with a 4-cross lug wrench.

and i've already lost/replaced 3 studs.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by steverife

I don't think it is really cross threading, unless you are gunning nuts on without hand starting them. The threads get contaminated with dirt/grime/shaving or get deformed from dragging wheels across them.

I couldn't get ARP's at the time that I needed to swap, but I actually swapped out to M12x1.5 Dorman. Part number 610-414 has the same knurl diameter and basically the same length. I also started carrying a die/chaser, so I can be proactive about things if I spin a nut on and it feels bad.

I carry a small nylon brush in my tire changing kit. I brush the studs off before putting the wheels on. No issues here.

[steverife]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I carry a small nylon brush in my tire changing kit. I brush the studs off before putting the wheels on. No issues here.

Hasn't proved to be enough for me, but yeah, I brush/wipe studs and try to make sure nothing is in the nut.