Plastic Modeling

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by soundman98

what? this makes no sense.. white led's are 3.2v ea. red led's are 1.9v ea... you should be able to run twice the amount of red led's over white...

what's your series/parallel wiring looking like?

Yeah, I don't get it either. I'm using a 2032 battery holder that has 2 positive terminals and 1 negative. The switch is a 4 channel switch.

So for the taillights, I have 4 LEDs with the positive wires leading to one wire that goes to the switch (channel 2), and then goes to the positive terminal of the battery holder. The negative wires lead to one wire that goes to the negative on the battery holder.

The headlights are wired the same way with the 2 LEDs. Positive wires lead to one wire that goes to channel 1 of the switch, and then goes to the other positive terminal. The negative goes to the same negative.

If I do the exact same set up as that with red LEDs for the taillights (which I did for the R33 and the Crown, the R34 I used two batteries and holders), I have that issue I mentioned earlier. Any idea on what's going on/what I'm doing wrong?

[soundman98]

try connecting series/parallel. of the 4 red led's at the back, split them into 2 groups.

connect the first group's first led positive wire to the positive wire from the switch. connect the negative of that led to the positive of the 2nd led, and then connect the negative of the 2nd led to the negative wire going back to the battery.


i suspect that all of the led's in parallel with the way you've wired them, you're reaching the limits of a cr2032 setup, as the voltage of a single 2032 works out ok, but it might be attempting to distribute too much of it across too many different area's.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by soundman98

i suspect that all of the led's in parallel with the way you've wired them, you're reaching the limits of a cr2032 setup, as the voltage of a single 2032 works out ok, but it might be attempting to distribute too much of it across too many different area's.

[Sapphireho]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

African or European

[Sapphireho]

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86

Am I posting this in the right thread?

Attachment 201481

Best laugh in a while.

100% right thread.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by soundman98

try connecting series/parallel. of the 4 red led's at the back, split them into 2 groups.

connect the first group's first led positive wire to the positive wire from the switch. connect the negative of that led to the positive of the 2nd led, and then connect the negative of the 2nd led to the negative wire going back to the battery.


i suspect that all of the led's in parallel with the way you've wired them, you're reaching the limits of a cr2032 setup, as the voltage of a single 2032 works out ok, but it might be attempting to distribute too much of it across too many different area's.

Would I put both groups to the same positive terminal and same channel on the switch?

I could always do what I did with the R34 and use two batteries and two holders. haha

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

Would I put both groups to the same positive terminal and same channel on the switch?

I could always do what I did with the R34 and use two batteries and two holders. haha

keep everything else as you had it. the rear lights on channel 2, the front lights on channel 1.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Watt is the internal resistance

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Watt is the internal resistance

Ohm-ygod tcoat, you can't just mix power and resistance units...

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by soundman98

keep everything else as you had it. the rear lights on channel 2, the front lights on channel 1.

I'll try that on the next model. Thank you for the info!

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Watt is the internal resistance

Watts on second!

[LimitedSlip]

I realize this is the *plastic* modeling thread but perhaps I might ask a metal modeling question? I drive a Halo 860 which has black stripes across the hood, roof, and trunk (see my avatar). I also have a 1/18 scale GT86 metal model in Halo - but no stripes. The real stripes are 5" wide at their widest which is .27" in 1/18 scale. I would like to add stripes to the model. What can I use for stripes that would be 1/4" wide and reasonably easy to work with? I thought maybe actual automotive black pin striping but is there any modeling alternatives? Thanks much!

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by LimitedSlip

I realize this is the *plastic* modeling thread but perhaps I might ask a metal modeling question? I drive a Halo 860 which has black stripes across the hood, roof, and trunk (see my avatar). I also have a 1/18 scale GT86 metal model in Halo - but no stripes. The real stripes are 5" wide at their widest which is .27" in 1/18 scale. I would like to add stripes to the model. What can I use for stripes that would be 1/4" wide and reasonably easy to work with? I thought maybe actual automotive black pin striping but is there any modeling alternatives? Thanks much!

Hobby Lobby or any decent hobby shop sells black decal material that would work well for this.