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Cosmetic Modification (Interior/Exterior/Lighting) Discussions about cosmetic mods. |
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04-10-2021, 02:28 AM | #29 | |
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04-10-2021, 10:35 AM | #30 |
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Different width is the problem. Makes the car an understeery mess. Not sure if it contributes to feeling light at speed, but I havent driven a factory alignment in so long (let alone on the highway)...
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Second chance build... or whatever it is.
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04-10-2021, 11:14 AM | #31 | |
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While I wouldn't have called it floaty, it was definitely understeery AF compared to now with the stock tire sizes on OEM wheels. Find some used OEMs for cheap and lose the boat anchors. |
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04-10-2021, 12:15 PM | #32 |
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Know
Do a search, it was on this forum. There was a discussion that a shop had higher temps in the diff with all the aero. I don’t think it’s deal closer, just something to think about with changing fluids more often and such.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ernest72 For This Useful Post: | jflogerzi (04-10-2021) |
04-10-2021, 12:38 PM | #33 | |
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2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
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04-10-2021, 01:16 PM | #34 |
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In theory I totally agree. In practice I'm skeptical I could feel much.
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04-10-2021, 06:44 PM | #35 |
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04-10-2021, 06:48 PM | #36 | |
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I was also staggered 225/255 zero issue. |
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04-10-2021, 06:56 PM | #37 | |
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Take a car with zero aero, Add only a real functional front splitter. And prepare to hate driving at 100mph+. Then add a diffuser to the above to rebalance it and prepare to love driving at 100mph+ the feeing is night and day. From a drag reduction stand point you won’t really feel that. IIRC the drag reduction at 100mph for everything combined was the equivalent to about 10whp or 2.5whp at 50mph, I calculated it out once. Which i guess adds up but 10whp isn’t that noticeable. From a downforce / reducing lift stand point though, It’s huge. Below 80 you dont really feel it, at 80 you start to feel it by 100 it’s very noticeable and by 120 you couldn’t imagine driving without it. |
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04-10-2021, 10:07 PM | #38 |
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Huh. Interesting. I'd love to experience that first hand.
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05-05-2021, 04:09 PM | #39 |
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Thanks everyone for the comments. I got an alignment, it didn't do much. I tracked down the wheels that came on the car, they're Avid.1 SL01's 8.5" & 9.5". Before the end of Fall I'll get two of the 8.5" wheels and mount either 225's or 235's all the way around. I really haven't put too much thought in the width yet, I'm open to suggestions for a spirited DD. I think a good chunk of my stability problem is the OEM suspension that has 114k on it. I did see wet spots on the shock boots indicating a leak. I'm going to get KYB GR2's and Tein H Tech springs very soon because I notice a descent amount of bounce when I drive. Does anyone know if a ~.6" rear drop will mandate adjustable toe bars? I'm planning on getting a camber/toe kit, but I don't have all the cash to do it all at once.
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05-05-2021, 05:43 PM | #40 | |
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If you're on a budget I suggest looking for lightly used 17+ dampers and springs. |
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05-05-2021, 07:01 PM | #41 | |
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I didn't know the OEM had adjustment, that's good. I like the KYB's for daily drivers, I've used them on all my shock/strut replacements. I know the Koni and Bilstein are much better, but they're also overkill for me. I consider the KYB's to be the best of the OEM+ struts but not something I would take to a track. The Eibach springs lower the car more than I want, and they're $100 more than either Tein set. |
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05-05-2021, 09:02 PM | #42 | |
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Also compromising for comfort and daily driving, while overlooking simple upgrades like high quality dampers and then asking for high speed stability/aerodynamics is very much conflicting. Your vehicle is a system and a sum of all parts. It will only be as good as its weakest mechanical part. Last edited by RayRay88; 05-05-2021 at 11:59 PM. |
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