Problems after installing eibach sway bars

[RayRay88]

Originally Posted by Adamf220

Yeah sorry I meant to post, but I talked to the service manager and he said there was no new sway bar mount but the customer service rep said they were working on one so who know. Basically they know this is a common issue and they aren't going to do anything about it.

That's a real shame. I know they just revised the Model number of the Ohlins from SUU MP22 to SUS MP21S1. Brian has confirmed that it's just a UPC addition with no physical changes. From their site it seems like this is something they've started revising since April so i'm inclined to believe him. Although it is odd I could never find spring rates or any technical information about the dampers on Ohlins USA.

Weathers warming up so Im hoping I can get the Ohlins on with the hotchkiss endlinks. Still on oem bars so fingers crossed I don't run into any issues.

[Adamf220]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

That's a real shame. I know they just revised the Model number of the Ohlins from SUU MP22 to SUS MP21S1. Brian has confirmed that it's just a UPC addition with no physical changes. From their site it seems like this is something they've started revising since April so i'm inclined to believe him. Although it is odd I could never find spring rates or any technical information about the dampers on Ohlins USA.

Weathers warming up so Im hoping I can get the Ohlins on with the hotchkiss endlinks. Still on oem bars so fingers crossed I don't run into any issues.

Here is my solution, 1/2" heim joints with a turnbuckle cut to lenght. Drilled a hole in the A Arm and bolted it up. Had to mount the heim on the inside of the sway bar to clear and it has miles of clearance now. Taking the car to the track tomorrow ill report back on how it works. Should be fine though.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by Adamf220

Here is my solution, 1/2" heim joints with a turnbuckle cut to lenght. Drilled a hole in the A Arm and bolted it up. Had to mount the heim on the inside of the sway bar to clear and it has miles of clearance now. Taking the car to the track tomorrow ill report back on how it works. Should be fine though.

If it works you should charge them a fee for fixing there obviously lack of QC...

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[Adamf220]

So the new sway bar mounting worked great for me. Zero issues and drove great. I would suggest everyone with ohlins or any other coilovers that have clearance issues to do the same as I did.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Just be advised that solution does change the motion ratio and effectiveness of the front swaybar, which may be okay with a bigger aftermarket front bar. With a stock front swaybar it might not be okay for everyone.

- Andrew

[rixter145]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

That's a real shame. I know they just revised the Model number of the Ohlins from SUU MP22 to SUS MP21S1. Brian has confirmed that it's just a UPC addition with no physical changes. From their site it seems like this is something they've started revising since April so i'm inclined to believe him. Although it is odd I could never find spring rates or any technical information about the dampers on Ohlins USA.

Weathers warming up so Im hoping I can get the Ohlins on with the hotchkiss endlinks. Still on oem bars so fingers crossed I don't run into any issues.

I added spacers until it clears the endlink now and it's been good with no bump

[RayRay88]

Originally Posted by rixter145

I added spacers until it clears the endlink now and it's been good with no bump

Spacers beyond what Ohlins provides? What camber are you running and is it through camber bolts or top hats? Also what endlinks, OEM bars or aftermarket?

[rixter145]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

Spacers beyond what Ohlins provides? What camber are you running and is it through camber bolts or top hats? Also what endlinks, OEM bars or aftermarket?

Fronts right? I'm running the hotchki's endlinks, whiteline sway bars and yeah I just kept adding spacers and checked on full lock (steering) to make sure it clears. I bought my coilover second hand so it never came with the stock spacers, so I just went to hardware store and bought thin ones and kept adding it till it clears.

I had a very aggressive alignment but wasn't tracking enough so I dialed it down a bit. But regardless, no issues at all
Alignment:

[maregt]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Just be advised that solution does change the motion ratio and effectiveness of the front swaybar, which may be okay with a bigger aftermarket front bar. With a stock front swaybar it might not be okay for everyone.

- Andrew

But the most important question is: is it safe?
I mean, it should be cause the arm is steel but, i don't know, couldn't be better to weld a small bracket on top of the arm?

[Adamf220]

Originally Posted by maregt

But the most important question is: is it safe?
I mean, it should be cause the arm is steel but, i don't know, couldn't be better to weld a small bracket on top of the arm?

Well I put a full track day on it and am about to do another. Checked everything and its all good. I cant imagine that the forces put on the end link in the control arm are great enough to distort the metal. The WRX is mounted the same way but with a bracket but the steel used for the bracket isnt any thicker than the stamped steel control arm.

[maregt]

The wrx arm is fully boxed and the bracket support the link with 2 arms that yes, looks thin, but not from the perspective of the force applied by the sway bar

Ours lca is open at the bottom so if you apply a load to the side the metal can flex cause it's not "supported" at the bottom.

Maybe that much stiffness isn't needed, time will tell (eventually you could put a camera in the wheel well and watch), but it's possible that Subaru used a different construction for a reason

[Adamf220]

Originally Posted by maregt

The wrx arm is fully boxed and the bracket support the link with 2 arms that yes, looks thin, but not from the perspective of the force applied by the sway bar

Ours lca is open at the bottom so if you apply a load to the side the metal can flex cause it's not "supported" at the bottom.

Maybe that much stiffness isn't needed, time will tell (eventually you could put a camera in the wheel well and watch), but it's possible that Subaru used a different construction for a reason

Well 2 track days done and its still fine. Subaru used a different construction

on our car because they could. They didnt have to deal with an axle and a

huge transmission so they were able to mount it behind the engine which

from my understanding is a better mounting location. Also I highly doubt

that the sway bar is able to flex the entire control arm, and the hole has not

rounded out or anything so I think its safe to say that it is fine.