FRS 4.8 LS swap

[kurty85]

got the fuel system redone with ptfe lines today and relocated the fpr. no more fuel smell and the fpr gauge is easier to see. I also installed siemens deka 80lb injectors from tre performance. flow matched and fit perfect in the ls2 intake. waiting on a professional brake flaring tool as the t bar always made off center flares no matter how careful i am. all brake lines removed from car currently as a vacuum test of the lines showed leaks on almost every flare i made. ordered 25 ft of earls brake line and will rebend and remake every line on the car.

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[Fatboy412]

looking really good i started my project on sept and got stuck on the headers part dont know if i should go twins or just use the ls3
any intel i would really appreciate

[kurty85]

If I had to do it again, I would stay n/a and make everything as streetable and nice as possible. Not a lot of room to put a single let alone twins in.

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[Fatboy412]

hey would u say the ls3 manifolds is a prety safe bet? or should i stay trying to fabricate headers?

[kurty85]

I used corvette ls2 manifolds when I started and fabbed a set of y pipes with mild steel. It made things much easier than trying to design a set of headers. Looking at Vorshlag, it took them an incredible amount of hours and they charge ridiculous amounts for their headers.

[kurty85]

Got the brake system bled today with a power bleeder at 15 psi from the reservoir. I went back to a booster and the stock master cylinder with my lines (no abs). A lot of air came out and the pedal was hard for the first time. No leaks from any fittings. I checked the pedal about 15 minutes later and it had some firmness but was able to be pushed very far down. I was hearing a squealing noise that sounded like the last time I tried to bleed. I think it is from the master cylinder seals. Last time I was observing the master cylinder while my son pushed on the pedal and I saw fluid running down the front of the booster. I took the master cylinder apart and cleaned it and could see no deformation to the seals with a flashlight. Does anyone think that the master cylinder is letting air in or have observed this before? I bought another stock master cylinder to replace it with and will try and rebleed when it gets here. This is maddening as I have replaced every component in the system except the master cylinder. The picture is how I am set up right now.

[Fatboy412]

Originally Posted by kurty85

I used corvette ls2 manifolds when I started and fabbed a set of y pipes with mild steel. It made things much easier than trying to design a set of headers. Looking at Vorshlag, it took them an incredible amount of hours and they charge ridiculous amounts for their headers.

well i ended up ordering headers from cx on ebay ill let you know how that turned ou

[kurty85]

Finally got the car going and on the road! I got it inspected yesterday and registered. The brake bleeding was a miserable pain. I finally got as much air out as I could by pressure bleeding with a master cylinder adapter and pressing the pedal. The brakes are significantly better but could use another professional bleed when I get back to the states. I am moving to Norfolk in September due to PCS orders (Navy) and shipping the car there. I had issues with white smoke from the exhaust and determined that the turbos were being over oiled. They are journal-bearing turbos bought from real st performance years ago. I used -4an lines with no restrictor. Rather than troubleshoot and rip everything apart, I took off the oil supply lines to each turbo and saw the center sections were filled to the top with oil and not draining. As soon as I spun the cold side wheel, the housings began to drain which made me think the volume of oil is too much. I have 43 psi at idle of oil pressure and over 60 psi at 35 mph. I thought about it and deemed I could tap the fittings going into the turbo and install a set screw. I drilled a 1/16 (0.0625) hole in the set screw and put everything back together. Took it for a test drive and no smoke! And it only cost me 19 dollars for everything. This is very close to the size recommended for some journal-bearing turbos of 0.065. The last thing to do is finish n/a tuning and boost. Think I want to take the car to VA Speed for a tune when I get there as they are the best LS tuners I have worked with. I also see myself switching out this engine and building a LS3/4.8 crank build eventually because I want to see 8k rpm. I feel like it would suit the character of the car.

[Ashikabi]

Those filters are likely choking your turbos. Recommend getting something truth now surface area.

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[kurty85]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Those filters are likely choking your turbos. Recommend getting something truth now surface area.

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Interesting thought but there is no room for anything else except the turbo guard ones. Many of the flat screen ones flow less. They are less surface area than a true filter. These will be fine for right now. I had the same style filter on another turbo car with no issues.

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[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by kurty85

Interesting thought but there is no room for anything else except the turbo guard ones. Many of the flat screen ones flow less. They are less surface area than a true filter. These will be fine for right now. I had the same style filter on another turbo car with no issues.

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Yeah I can see the one on the right side of the picture is pretty cramped

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[jeepmor]

Is it fired up yet? How's the under hood heat management? Turbos always make me nervous for underhood heat in this car.

[kurty85]

It gets hot quickly but not too bad. It needs hood vents pretty bad. Going to install after I move.

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[kurty85]

Well the smoking is back. Drove the car for 30 minutes today. Checking data logs I had 76 psi of oil pressure at 3600 rpm. Wondering if a smaller restrictor is needed or need to check the seals on the turbos?