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#71 |
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Band-aiding pressures with thicker oil is strictly that: a band-aid.
As a general rule, I consider anything over 240F on the higher side, and over 260F questionable, unless known normal (e.g. S2k). Even on the known normal, oil coolers are proven to reduce wear. |
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#72 | |||
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Downsides to running 0W or 5W, 30- or 40-weight synthetic during warm track-season months are pretty much nonexistent... Quote:
Good synthetic oil is widely considered to be fine up to at least 300F. Quote:
Two identical FT86s running identical street/track usage running the same 0w20 oil, yeah, I'd bet the one with an oil cooler would exhibit less engine wear. But compensating with heavier oil in the non-oil-cooler car to achieve same viscosity at track operating temp as car with oil cooler, seems like wear rates should be similar. |
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#73 |
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Heat in relation to an engine goes past just oil temps. More heat than necessary in the engine bay is never a good thing. A cooler running motor (to a point) is just a lot happier. I don't think I've ever seen someone after a session attempt to get the engine bay hotter, hence opening up the hood to cool things down.
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#74 | |
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Seems like adding an oil cooler could *increase* engine bay temps, no? |
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#75 | ||
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And I always hear that the 1k rpm/10psi pressure rule of thumb, but if I understand oil pressure correctly, flow is not fully reflected in this reading (again, please correct me if i am wrong). You can have optimal pressure with very little flow which can lead to bad things as well. From my reading, even if you add an oil cooler, use heavier oil etc, you are still not achieving "optimal" pressures. Despite my efforts, I can't find any documentation for "optimal" oil pressure for the FA under track driving conditions. Is 40ish psi good enough? Or was it a design flaw?
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#76 | |
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Eta- As you rev higher, you want a firmer cushion so parts don't contact each other while they whip around. At least, that's how I see it. Lower temps = better pressure. Last edited by dragoontwo; 11-12-2020 at 05:10 PM. |
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#77 | |
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#78 | |
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You make a good point about this being a negative effect on DD, which I fully agree with, hence why I am pretty firm in believing a DD should not have the need for an oil cooler. A simple bump up in oil weight (band-aid) should do enough for any minor temperature increases. So the 10 psi per 1k RPM rule is simply that... a general rule made up a long time ago (kind of like an average for most vehicles). This certainly doesn't reflect accurately to all vehicles and for some it is probably quite off. Someone has posted on the forum several times what our platform recommends as the standard pressure per RPM from the manual, and it is pretty close to that rule if I recall. I will see if I can dig it up. But the idea is simple of course, you would try to match the pressure that you car recommends, because the engineers that designed the engine probably know what is best for it in terms of good oil flow. But... this is likely strictly speaking in the perfect world of using the oil recommended, and no other upgrades such as oil coolers. I do believe changing oil weight is a safe way to adjust oil pressure to keep it flowing properly. An oil cooler on the other hand... may be a different story. As ZDan and you pointed out, it changes the characteristics of the flow by reducing pressures. EDIT: Ok, so after searching for a while I finally found the little bit of info the manual offers in terms of oil pressure for our platform. This has been posted on the forum a few times in the past. https://www.subarucar.net/sites/suba...FA20D_DOHC.pdf It only offers one piece of information: At 80C, pressures should be greater than 7.3psi at idle and greater than 73psi at 6k RPM. Last edited by Dzmitry; 11-13-2020 at 08:05 AM. |
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#79 | ||||
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I would agree as well. The "thicker" oil (230f, less thinned out) should provide more film strength to prevent metal to metal contact. However, I am not an engineer so i can't be 100% certain. If I am correct though, I rather have optimum file strength AND pressure for 99% of my driving (DD/Spirited) than "better" film strength when I am on track (1% of my driving). Quote:
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A couple additional things that i have noted from my research: 1. Any engine that are tracked will see elevated oil temps. 280f is not uncommon for even Honda B-series, F-series or even the K-series and and oil pressure for these engines also drop as oil temp climbs. I think i read about 60psi for a F-series engine at redline. Adding oil cooler to these applications also reduces oil pressure. 2. Bigger engines with more pistons/displacement will run hotter than 4 cycl. But that is just basic physics with more pistons generating heat. I have read that corvette boots around town at 230f and can see well over 300f during track conditions. I believe they are just spec'd normal M1 5/10W-30. This makes our 270f looking pretty good in comparison. So what is "too" hot? 3. To add to the complexity, we have not even discussed "oil flow" in this equation. Adequate pressure doesn't mean a whole lot without proper flow. You need an adequate supply of oil in order to provide proper lubrication. I remember coming across an article where it stated the FI version of the FA20 oil pump has a ridiculously high flow rate (though i can't remember the exact metric). However, i never found any specs for the NA version of the FA20. And our oil pumps are positive displacement meaning the flow is fixed. All this to say is that all engines are designed differently so how can we apply the "1k/10psi" threshold as a general guideline? Is the 40ish PSI of oil pressure at 270f PROVEN to be a problem for a leisurely tracked FA? Will it yield appreciable wear that will make a tangible difference in your ownership of the car?
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#80 | |||
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Above 270F, 0w20 is below 5 cSt. So, get a cooler that puts you at 250F at the track, with 0w20 that'd put you ~6 cSt. Same viscosity as "normal" resource-conserving 5w30 at ~270-275F without the cooler. Quote:
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#81 |
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I only have a GReddy oil cooler and Radium catch can on my car for "reliability". Stock NA.
Catch can is obviously not a requirement, but typically opt to run them on cars to monitor blow by levels and limit/reduce them, since it can contribute to increased knock. Not so much an issue with these cars; especially stock/NA.. but extra peace of mind for me. The cooler seems like a no brainer to me, honestly. Here in AZ, I would get upt 230-240F oil temps just cruising down the highway @75mph in the summer, when ambient temps are passing 110º. I could only imagine how fast oil temps would get up even further on track in similar conditions. With the GReddy cooler, I was able to go through a full track day at ~105º ambient temps, with the oil never surpassing 230-240. I would go for a good 4-5 laps, then do a cool down, and do another 3 or 4 before the final cool down into the pits. I'm sure some people can "get away" without having one, but I personally don't want to "get away" with anything lol. I want to know that the car has what it needs to be reliable. Plus, it sucks going to an event and only being able to do 1-2 laps before running into temp issues. That's what I had to deal with on my STI during summer events, where the car would do 2 laps around AutoClub Speedway and then I'd start seeing high oil/water temps and I'd have to do 1-2 cool down laps before the temps were acceptable again. So I'd get like 4 hot laps per 20 minute session. Lame AF. And that was STILL in sub 100º weather.
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#82 | |
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#83 | |
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I think the question shouldn't be whether 40psi of oil at 270F is a problem for a leisurely tracked FA, but rather is it bad in general to have 40psi at high RPM. Based on how oil flow works and how engineers typically spec pressures to rise for higher RPM's, I would like to believe there is some negative to it. How much is another story. |
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#84 | |
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