Getting valve work (recall) done. Should I do anything to bottom end - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

GrandSport · 09-29-2020, 03:40 PM

engine has a lot of track miles on it. Probably 80 hours worth. I'm debating either refreshing (hone, ring, bearings) or just getting a new OEM stock bottom end.

Any other suggestions? Anything to "fix" while I'm in there for a dedicated track car?

dasting · 09-29-2020, 05:52 PM

What are compression numbers? Are dyno numbers down?

TommyW · 09-29-2020, 06:41 PM

The dealer may ruin your car. They did mine! It's a no win situation. You get a new bottom end and they do the sealant wrong then you're in for another new motor. My suggestion is just stick with getting the recall signed off which is free then do a new motor with a shop that specializes in the FA20. You put a bunch of money in a new motor and there's a good chance it'll self destruct if the dealer does it. . It will self destruct quicker on the track if it is going to self destruct. You can get an IAG short block Stage 1 and it has upgraded internals and better oiling. Its around 1,600 more than a stock short block

DarkPira7e · 09-29-2020, 07:16 PM

Consider me a bit afraid of this, but I wouldn't bother doing anything while they're in there. Just pray they can do the single job they've got correctly.

Honestly, plugs and DI seals are the only two things I'd do unprompted.

Clutch, TOB, upgrade clutch fork would be peace of mind things

TommyW · 09-29-2020, 09:13 PM

Clutch is a safe bet. Of course the dealer didn't tighten my pivot bolt and the fork came off while nursing a knocking rod on the way home

Irace86.2.0 · 10-01-2020, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GrandSport

engine has a lot of track miles on it. Probably 80 hours worth. I'm debating either refreshing (hone, ring, bearings) or just getting a new OEM stock bottom end.

Any other suggestions? Anything to "fix" while I'm in there for a dedicated track car?

What’s wrong with the engine? What do you think/know needs repairing/replacing and why?

I agree with Tommy. Do the spring recall if you have to and then do a rebuild to freshen/strengthen the motor.

TommyW · 10-01-2020, 08:35 PM

Just got off the track at Laguna sitting in the RV with a cold one. Ran the new IAG motor built the RIGHT way and I’m here to tell you it was money well spent. Flawless all day, just felt super tight and had total confidence.

GrandSport · 10-04-2020, 05:23 PM

I’m leaning toward a crate/factory bottom
End and just having them install that instead of my old one. Should I upgrade any bolts or hardware?

Ultramaroon · 10-04-2020, 08:23 PM

Get reference UOA now if you haven't already. That's just for the bearings Otherwise, don't fuck with it. You aren't in Cali. Especially with such punishing use, your valve springs are thoroughly battle-tested. I should start a no-recall fund. Everybody kicks in ten bucks and if one of us breaks a valve spring, we get a brand new engine.

GrandSport · 10-07-2020, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Get reference UOA now if you haven't already. That's just for the bearings Otherwise, don't fuck with it. You aren't in Cali. Especially with such punishing use, your valve springs are thoroughly battle-tested. I should start a no-recall fund. Everybody kicks in ten bucks and if one of us breaks a valve spring, we get a brand new engine.

What's a UOA reference?

wheelhaus · 10-07-2020, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GrandSport

What's a UOA reference?

Used Oil Analysis. The best information can be gleaned from a series of tests to see what's happening changing over time, but a baseline is always needed to start.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

GrandSport · 10-07-2020, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheelhaus

Used Oil Analysis. The best information can be gleaned from a series of tests to see what's happening changing over time, but a baseline is always needed to start.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Well my oil has one track day on it and I am sending the car off in a few days, so that's probably not going to be super helpful. I can check clearances and stuff, but at this point, given it has so many track hours, it's worth peace of mind to put a new factory rotating assembly in.

I'm not going to do much by way of power- it will stay with bolt ons and E-85 tune, so I think factory rod, cank and pistons are fine. Is there anything I should upgrade (ie: Rod bolts, oil pump, etc) before doing this?

09-29-2020, 03:40 PM	#1
GrandSport Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2018 Drives: 13 Viper; 14 BRZ; 90 Miata; 18 AMG Location: TX Posts: 382 Thanks: 82 Thanked 230 Times in 128 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Getting valve work (recall) done. Should I do anything to bottom end engine has a lot of track miles on it. Probably 80 hours worth. I'm debating either refreshing (hone, ring, bearings) or just getting a new OEM stock bottom end. Any other suggestions? Anything to "fix" while I'm in there for a dedicated track car? __________________ 2014 BRZ: WRL Build (GP2) Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, etc- 2014 FRS: Similar WRL Build. Back up / parts / practice race car. 2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc. 1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies. 2022 CT5 Blackwing: Stock.

09-29-2020, 05:52 PM	#2
dasting Member Join Date: May 2020 Drives: 2013 BRZ Limited Location: NJ Posts: 43 Thanks: 7 Thanked 31 Times in 15 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	What are compression numbers? Are dyno numbers down? __________________ 2013 BRZ Limited, NASA Instructor, ex-spec miata racer

10-04-2020, 05:23 PM	#8
GrandSport Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2018 Drives: 13 Viper; 14 BRZ; 90 Miata; 18 AMG Location: TX Posts: 382 Thanks: 82 Thanked 230 Times in 128 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I’m leaning toward a crate/factory bottom End and just having them install that instead of my old one. Should I upgrade any bolts or hardware? __________________ 2014 BRZ: WRL Build (GP2) Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, etc- 2014 FRS: Similar WRL Build. Back up / parts / practice race car. 2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc. 1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies. 2022 CT5 Blackwing: Stock.

10-04-2020, 08:23 PM	#9
Ultramaroon not playing cards Join Date: Sep 2014 Drives: a 13 e8h frs Location: vantucky, wa Posts: 32,395 Thanks: 53,053 Thanked 37,228 Times in 19,308 Posts Mentioned: 1117 Post(s) Tagged: 9 Thread(s)	Get reference UOA now if you haven't already. That's just for the bearings Otherwise, don't fuck with it. You aren't in Cali. Especially with such punishing use, your valve springs are thoroughly battle-tested. I should start a no-recall fund. Everybody kicks in ten bucks and if one of us breaks a valve spring, we get a brand new engine. __________________ service manuals

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09-29-2020, 06:41 PM	#3
TommyW Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Drives: '13 Whiteout Location: San Clemente Posts: 1,493 Thanks: 496 Thanked 1,245 Times in 674 Posts Mentioned: 10 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	The dealer may ruin your car. They did mine! It's a no win situation. You get a new bottom end and they do the sealant wrong then you're in for another new motor. My suggestion is just stick with getting the recall signed off which is free then do a new motor with a shop that specializes in the FA20. You put a bunch of money in a new motor and there's a good chance it'll self destruct if the dealer does it. . It will self destruct quicker on the track if it is going to self destruct. You can get an IAG short block Stage 1 and it has upgraded internals and better oiling. Its around 1,600 more than a stock short block

09-29-2020, 07:16 PM	#4
DarkPira7e Rust bucket enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2017 Drives: 2013 Turbo Firestorm FRS Location: Vermont Posts: 4,052 Thanks: 3,307 Thanked 4,202 Times in 2,111 Posts Mentioned: 33 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Consider me a bit afraid of this, but I wouldn't bother doing anything while they're in there. Just pray they can do the single job they've got correctly. Honestly, plugs and DI seals are the only two things I'd do unprompted. Clutch, TOB, upgrade clutch fork would be peace of mind things

09-29-2020, 09:13 PM	#5
TommyW Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Drives: '13 Whiteout Location: San Clemente Posts: 1,493 Thanks: 496 Thanked 1,245 Times in 674 Posts Mentioned: 10 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Clutch is a safe bet. Of course the dealer didn't tighten my pivot bolt and the fork came off while nursing a knocking rod on the way home

10-01-2020, 08:35 PM	#7
TommyW Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Drives: '13 Whiteout Location: San Clemente Posts: 1,493 Thanks: 496 Thanked 1,245 Times in 674 Posts Mentioned: 10 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Just got off the track at Laguna sitting in the RV with a cold one. Ran the new IAG motor built the RIGHT way and I’m here to tell you it was money well spent. Flawless all day, just felt super tight and had total confidence.

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