WHAT DID YOU DO TO YOUR FRS TODAY?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by squall leonhart

And of course, NOW I also see the cargo liner mat that was/is? available in Canada. PU550-18151-01

Not sure if it ships to the US or not. Guess that's what I get for making a somewhat impulse buy (I was actually order the TRD exhaust gasket/hardware and some other bolts and filters) and not looking for full options. Oh well...it'll do.

They won't.
I tried to ship one and it was going to cost about $150 to send it to Florida. You don't want to know what it was going to cost to send one to eastern Europe!
The problem is that it is too rigid to roll or fold so the package is huge.
I threw mine in with the FRS when I sold it.

[KR-S]

Originally Posted by ichitaka05

Which bracket or kit are you using?

Stock bracket, stock rotor.

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Are you trying to install it to the outboard side of the mount? That's the only thing that I can think of.

Not sure what you mean but I do have the bracket where it is supposed to be. Regardless, I just double-checked; it may have just been a non-issue; the rotor wasn't really set in properly. It spins freely otherwise. Haven't tested out the car yet though.

Also, I was stupid and broke the WSS bolt. Anyway to remove the broken bolt without resorting to drilling and retapping?

[ichitaka05]

Originally Posted by KR-S 86

Stock bracket, stock rotor.

If you have open nuts, you can tighten to see if really touches the bracket or not. Or you already done that & still touches. Make sure bracket bolts are install correctly.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by KR-S 86

WSS

I'm stumped

[ActionMaxon]

Originally Posted by KR-S 86

Also, I was stupid and broke the WSS bolt. Anyway to remove the broken bolt without resorting to drilling and retapping?

You could take a nut, and weld the end of the broken bolt to the inside of the nut. Then take your time freeing it up.

Disconnect your battery before welding.

[KR-S]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I'm stumped

I certainly wish I could remove this wheel speed sensor bolt stump.

Originally Posted by ActionMaxon

You could take a nut, and weld the end of the broken bolt to the inside of the nut. Then take your time freeing it up.

Disconnect your battery before welding.

Unfortunately I don't have a welder. Was thinking if I could some how hammer in an indent big enough for a flathead to go into (of course I could end up damaging the threads in this case).


Are there any bolt extractor tools small enough to reach in?

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by KR-S 86

I certainly wish I could remove this wheel speed sensor bolt stump.




Unfortunately I don't have a welder. Was thinking if I could some how hammer in an indent big enough for a flathead to go into (of course I could end up damaging the threads in this case).


Are there any bolt extractor tools small enough to reach in?

Can you get a Dremel tool in there with a cut off wheel and cut a slot for a flat head screwdriver?
They do make small screw extractors.

[ActionMaxon]

The "put a slot in it" trick can be a gamble. The metal near the break is twisted up and weak, so sometimes the bolt material just breaks away. Then your next option is drilling it out, but you just put a slot in the bolt which will make it difficult to keep the drill bit centered.

If you have enough bolt material to flatten it out again in the event the slot trick doesn't work, it's not a big deal.

If you're gonna try the slot trick spray repeatedly with PB Blaster and allow plenty of time to soak in to give you the best chance for success. Not WD-40, PB Blaster. It's the best.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by KR-S 86

So I'm in the middle of reinstalling the brake caliper bracket but I keep noticing that the rotor is rubbing up against the inside of the bracket. I doubt that's normal so I figure I'm doing something wrong, but the bolts seem to be going in correctly. I'm not about to drive the car with the rotors rubbing up against the bracket; anything I'm doing wrong here?

Picture?

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by ActionMaxon

The "put a slot in it" trick can be a gamble. The metal near the break is twisted up and weak, so sometimes the bolt material just breaks away. Then your next option is drilling it out, but you just put a slot in the bolt which will make it difficult to keep the drill bit centered.

If you have enough bolt material to flatten it out again in the event the slot trick doesn't work, it's not a big deal.

If you're gonna try the slot trick spray repeatedly with PB Blaster and allow plenty of time to soak in to give you the best chance for success. Not WD-40, PB Blaster. It's the best.

Originally Posted by Spuds

Picture?

Yeah, pics would be great, tough to make a good, workable suggestion without putting eyes on it.

[Ultramaroon]

Dimple with center punch before drilling.

[KR-S]

Originally Posted by ichitaka05

If you have open nuts, you can tighten to see if really touches the bracket or not. Or you already done that & still touches. Make sure bracket bolts are install correctly.

So yeah I just took the car for a small drive around the neighborhood (<20 MPH) and no grinding that I can hear whatsoever. The rotor was just fucking with my mind.

Gonna take pictures of the broken stud in a bit.

[Overdrive]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

Nice. Got any pics of your LEDs? I replaced every bulb in my FR-S with LEDs (minus the headlights since they are HIDs from the factory, and I don't want to cut and redo the wiring to run LEDs

Sorry I'm responding late to this. I do have some pics, not the greatest, but they ought to get the job done. My phone's camera is pretty crappy at night, so the nighttime pictures look very starburst-y. It even makes my stock low beams look bad. The lights are not blindingly bright at all like some of the pics would make you think. (Don't know why one of the side marker pics got rotated 90 degrees)

Also, to note before I forget, I didn't get the fancy pants tap-turn relay with all the cool features, I got the very basic one that is just built to eliminate hyperflash and provide a 3-flash tap-turn. Wouldn't mind one that gave me something more like 5 flashes, but it's better than nothing. Also-also, swapping that relay was the most difficult and time consuming part of this entire process, lol. Second hardest I would say was probably dealing with removing the rather stubborn stock side markers. But all worth it.

[Overdrive]

And one more, since I hit my limit on the last post: