SCCA Solo C Street Discussion

[BigTuna]

Originally Posted by Jrwilliams

I just picked up a 17' BRZ non PP in november. I used to autoX my camaro but I'll be running in DS class. Got some RS4's on the way, OEM crash bolts but beyond that I am just gunna run the car flat out as is and see where I think it needs anything. Probably get a factionfab catback exhaust. They sound good and only weight 17lbs!

BRZ performance packs are in CS, not DS.

[nico_rsx]

Originally Posted by BigTuna

BRZ performance packs are in CS, not DS.

That's why he said "non PP"

[BigTuna]

Originally Posted by nico_rsx

That's why he said "non PP"

That'll teach me to not read too fast.

[Scabpicker]

Had my first autocross in the BRZ this weekend, and it was my first autocross in a RWD vehicle. Running in C Street, bone stock down to the tires.



It rained early, so the first group kind of dried out the track, and left the very heavily used TMS bus lot with it's oil/tire deposits with a surface like ice for the second group. Jeebus, never seen this car so tail happy. After my second run, I just shifted short out of first as soon as traction felt sketchy at the rear to keep myself from just completely doing a burnout up to the rev limiter.



On my first run, I totally spun, but kept myself from grabbing cones or adding myself to the legion of DNFs that morning. But it was appropriately a 72 second run when the FTD was already 48 seconds. I got progressively more in control of the thing, bringing my runs down to 61, 56, 55 and finally a 52. I was still 6/6 in C Street, and basically 1.5 seconds behind the slowest Miata in the class, but at the end of the day I had beat an STX prepped twin on raw time, and beat another twin on PAX. So I was almost happy with my first outing in it considering my prep level.



I had a nice coach with a Nationals jacket on my 56 second run. Other than she thought I was easy on the throttle because she was in the car (it wasn't because of her, it was because I totally spun on my first run and was gun shy), she just thought I needed to be easier with the steering inputs. And get some tires. She asked "So what's the story with the tires?", when she offered to coach my run. I answered "They're the stock Primacy HPs". "Oh, you know what your problem is, then." I'll probably run the stockers until I'm within a clean second of the next fastest car in my class, or they just die, whichever comes first.


Either way, the car is a glorious load of fun in that environment. Coming from FWD in the sport, it's a very different struggle.

[Mball19]

I am looking at sway bar endlinks now that I have my TRD bars installed. Since the rules allow replacement of both sway bars. Can I swap front and rear endlinks to heim-jointed adjustable links or can I only swap one end from OEM style?

[steverife]

Originally Posted by Mball19

I am looking at sway bar endlinks now that I have my TRD bars installed. Since the rules allow replacement of both sway bars. Can I swap front and rear endlinks to heim-jointed adjustable links or can I only swap one end from OEM style?

It gets a little weird in that the TRD conversion (which entails the swapping of both bars) is permitted in stock and classed differently...

...but the rules only allow the swapping of one bar, and thus only changing end links on one end.

[Mball19]

Originally Posted by steverife

It gets a little weird in that the TRD conversion (which entails the swapping of both bars) is permitted in stock and classed differently...

...but the rules only allow the swapping of one bar, and thus only changing end links on one end.

That is what I was assuming. I will probably replace the fronts to account for the TRD springs. Is there a preferred brand? I have looked at RacerX, SuperPro, Whiteline, and SPL.

[TrqlessWonder]

Originally Posted by Mball19

That is what I was assuming. I will probably replace the fronts to account for the TRD springs. Is there a preferred brand? I have looked at RacerX, SuperPro, Whiteline, and SPL.

I went through 3 sets of Whiteline links for my front 20mm bar. Some didn't make it far at all, but none made it a whole season.

The SPL ones I've got now seem to be holding up much better.

[Clutch Dog]

Originally Posted by TrqlessWonder

I went through 3 sets of Whiteline links for my front 20mm bar. Some didn't make it far at all, but none made it a whole season.

The SPL ones I've got now seem to be holding up much better.

ive eaten a set of whitelines with autox, so has a guy in an Rx8 and another 86 owner.

i went with SPL, the other 86 guy went Perrin, and i think the rx8 guy eventually got around to SPL as well.

I recommend them over racerX they fit so much tighter

[bmacfrs]

Originally Posted by Clutch Dog

ive eaten a set of whitelines with autox, so has a guy in an Rx8 and another 86 owner.

i went with SPL, the other 86 guy went Perrin, and i think the rx8 guy eventually got around to SPL as well.

I recommend them over racerX they fit so much tighter

Hmm. I think i have Whiteline links. So what is it that happens to them?

[Clutch Dog]

Originally Posted by bmacfrs

Hmm. I think i have Whiteline links. So what is it that happens to them?

for me: I stripped out the driver side endlink bolts
86 guy did the same but it was rear driver endlink
rx8 guy bent his ( hes kinda aggressive 9k spring rate and 255 super 200s)

[DocWalt]

I have no idea how the Whiteline links are getting damaged. I can see the issue with the balljoint ends being too fat and the center section being too long, but otherwise... WTF? Are you guys putting them in bind or something?

[tony_r]

I had shortened Whitelines on the old setup. Reality is that lots do not know how to set up properly, especially on strut-linked cars where it's more important than control arm links. Not only free of bind but have to ensure that the bar is not hitting the arm, and that there is full range of motion. If tightened wrong it's easy to limit the range of motion, then it will bind.

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by tony_r

I had shortened Whitelines on the old setup. Reality is that lots do not know how to set up properly, especially on strut-linked cars where it's more important than control arm links. Not only free of bind but have to ensure that the bar is not hitting the arm, and that there is full range of motion. If tightened wrong it's easy to limit the range of motion, then it will bind.

Kind of what I was getting at. I'm just lazy and didn't feel like typing it out