12-01-2018, 06:42 PM | #71 | |
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What im asking is can you talk to ecu and read fault codes, the ecu will report fault codes related to imobilisier or other moduoes it cannot talk to or sync with, this will bive you clies as to what to do. Theirs no jarm in loop in 4-13 on obd to try but you need to read fault codes from ecu to see whats going on |
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12-01-2018, 10:09 PM | #72 | |
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[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5KOtsy0Zfg[/ame] The obd gets power but the scanner I have wont connect to the car without it being in all on mode (which I can't get the car to do, see video) |
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12-02-2018, 10:56 AM | #73 | |
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Hmm that looks like you got some other electrical issues. Why did the 3 control units need replacing ? wiring diagram here https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43087 or here http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...KZRdfw0USLNPjY service manuals https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal/ |
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12-02-2018, 05:25 PM | #74 | |
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Kind of clueless where to go from here. I don't wanna take it to the dealer for program and them tell me something else is wrong and charge me anyway |
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01-03-2020, 05:34 PM | #75 |
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1. Since I drive a 2013 frs automatic and plan on keeping it stock forever, does that mean that if I find a used 2013 FRS automatic ECU, I can skip the Techstream step?
2. For step 4, replacing battery terminal, is there a point to cut and clamp a new battery terminal? |
01-03-2020, 06:22 PM | #76 | |
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Their is no need for techstream or to change vin number, car will start and run fine without changing vin. The new ecu does have to contain a compatable ecu tune , so if its from same year model same transmission should be fine. The ecu can be flashed with correct tune if needed the hardware is all the same When i say remove and replace batterty terminals im just taking disconnect and connect ie its just to remove power to car |
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01-05-2020, 01:21 AM | #77 |
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Thanks Steve! Guess I was following the instructions too literally!
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01-12-2020, 09:11 AM | #78 |
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if it has '15 firmware it will probably start anyway but then you should flash older tune because the newer tune will most probably trigger DTCs
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01-14-2020, 08:36 AM | #79 |
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OK. Bit of a longshot here.
I was drawn to this thread because I've seen it before when I needed to replace my ECU in the BRZ. Didn't end up replacing the factory ECU in my BRZ, just dropped in a Motec instead. BUT, I'm having what I believe to be an ECU issue in my 2018 wrx...similar crap...I think a code is essentially burned in. I've done a ton of diagnosing and still want to 100% confirm before I purchase a new ECU, so I have a few more things to troubleshoot. If anyone is interested in the code/diagnosing process I went through, I'd be glad to share, but it's extensive. I really, REALLY, don't want to go to the dealership to have them swap the ECU. I have an AP married to the car and have a ton of other mods on the car (planning for big power this year), and just foresee it being a huge hassle at the dealership. To be clear, I'm talking about the dealership just working on the car, I would NOT claim anything under warranty. I'm 99% sure this is my fault somehow. My question is, does anyone think this process will work for swapping the ECU in my 2018 WRX?
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01-14-2020, 09:15 PM | #80 | |
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This process was in the btz\86 service manuals, i have no idea if it eould work with a 2018 wrx as they use a hitaci ecu not a Denso. You would need to get hold of the repair and service manuals and find the swap process I very much doubt their are eny permanent burnt in error codes or learned values in ecu, ive swapped lots in brz 86 and that sort of thing would cause issues on a swap. I think your ecu either has a hardware issue or you have a hardware or senor issue in car |
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01-15-2020, 08:59 AM | #81 | |
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And as for saying I thought the code was burnt in, I didn't mean literally, I just meant I think the ECU is having some internal issues generally. I have a code that is recurring after all related components have been replaced, harnesses checked with multimeter etc. Everything is fine. Last thing I have to do is just check the signal the ECU is outputting, and compare it to my buddies identical WRX...I suspect the signal will be incorrect in voltage and timing. We'll see...
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07-17-2020, 03:10 PM | #82 |
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Thank you steve99 for this useful thread.
I confirm this worked on my 2019 BRZ 6MT, swapping in a spare (used) ECU from a 2017 BRZ 6MT. I wanted to test it, before I actually need it (and possibly find out it doesn't work..). It's working well now, I'll probably stay on this spare ECU and won't revert back to my "pristine" (never flashed) original ECU.. When I tried the process the first time, I did not get the flashing CEL light in the dash. I thought maybe it had changed on the 2017+ models so I still waited for a half hour and sure enough, after waiting for 30 minutes, engine would not even attempt to crank at all. I figured out my mistake the next day.. In order to loop pins 4 and 13, I built myself a "fancy" OBD-II male connector with two crimped pins and a piece of wire. I didn't want to insert a wire directly in the female connector in the car because I wanted to make sure I would not damage the female connector. Just for reference, I used the following Molex components:
Those can be ordered from Mouser and other retailers (probably Digikey and others). The part numbers at Mouser were 538-68503-1602 and 538-57964-9702-LP. Make sure you order extra pins in case you mess up when crimping. I used my usual Molex crimpers to prepare the little cable with two pins. Once crimped, I inserted the pins in their appropriate location and the pins "click" in place. I'm not sure how to remove the pins from the housing, there must be a special Molex tool for that, which I do not own. If you attempt to do this, keep in mind the pin locations are mirrored, if you look at the male connector from the pin side. There are small numbers in the plastic mold of the housing, to double check the location. So back to my initial problem: my little OBD-II loop was actually built properly. I just didn't insert it quite hard enough on the first try. This Molex male connector housing has a locking tab (preventing the connector from simply being pulled out). This makes the connector harder to insert fully. At least, when doing this single handed under the dash, I didn't push it completely in on my first attempt. On my second attempt, I crawled under the steering wheel and made sure I could squeeze the connector in place (holding the bracket and female connector while pushing) instead of just inserting the connector like I normally would. It took a little more force than my other OBD-II devices but I felt the familiar "click" of the locking tab. Once that was done, I did get the flashing CEL and everything worked as intended. I even reflashed with my stock ROM using a Tactrix cable. My only step left is to correct the VIN using Techstream. Thank you again for the nice write up and detailed procedure. Flukester Last edited by Flukester; 07-21-2020 at 10:18 AM. Reason: spelling |
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09-07-2020, 04:38 PM | #83 | |
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I need help :/
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So I’m having a problem when I jump the pins the cel doesn’t even try to blink in the loop. My cars a manual and the new Ecu is also manual. Idk what else to try and would really love any help 🙏🏼 |
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09-07-2020, 06:36 PM | #84 | |
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if CEL doesnt blink with loop on pins 4 to 13 on obd port (ignition must be full ON not jst accessory) then either loop is not connecting or connection to obd port bad or ecu may have problem. put the old ecu back and see in cel blinks with loop on 4-13 and ignition full on engine stopped |
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