Something is wrong S/C

[Smaay]

I got a set of OEM plugs, ill put them in tomorrow. I got an email back from Edelbrock to check out the bypass actuator.



The car idles perfectly and cruises just fine. Its only WOT boost where its stumbling.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by Smaay

I got a set of OEM plugs, ill put them in tomorrow. I got an email back from Edelbrock to check out the bypass actuator.



The car idles perfectly and cruises just fine. Its only WOT boost where its stumbling.

Plugs and or coil packs.

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Smaay

I got a set of OEM plugs, ill put them in tomorrow. I got an email back from Edelbrock to check out the bypass actuator.

The car idles perfectly and cruises just fine. Its only WOT boost where its stumbling.

Unfortunately, it is really hard to diagnose the problem given the electrical mishap because that opens it up to anything. It seems likely everything is fine electrically if you have no CELs, but it is hard to be certain. It is also odd that you aren’t getting any codes while on boost if it is breaking up.

Just to clarify, the car will run like shit, especially on boost or at serious load after reconnecting the negative battery terminal. You have to cruise around and turn the car off and on before the system goes out of this check mode. Even still, it will feel less sharp and responsive for a while until it relearns.

I don’t think your problems is or ever was the spark plugs. They don’t fail so precipitously. Moreover, how did they look? Was there visible damage, especially on cylinder 1’s spark plug? I’m guess not, and I don’t think the other plugs would do so poorly, even at a significant gap change.

[Smaay]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Unfortunately, it is really hard to diagnose the problem given the electrical mishap because that opens it up to anything. It seems likely everything is fine electrically if you have no CELs, but it is hard to be certain. It is also odd that you aren’t getting any codes while on boost if it is breaking up.

Just to clarify, the car will run like shit, especially on boost or at serious load after reconnecting the negative battery terminal. You have to cruise around and turn the car off and on before the system goes out of this check mode. Even still, it will feel less sharp and responsive for a while until it relearns.

I don’t think your problems is or ever was the spark plugs. They don’t fail so precipitously. Moreover, how did they look? Was there visible damage, especially on cylinder 1’s spark plug? I’m guess not, and I don’t think the other plugs would do so poorly, even at a significant gap change.

what is this check mode you speak of? With an ECUTEK I should be ready set go? thats all I did when I installed the SC.



The car was having a problem before I even started working on it. So either I have a sensor gone bad or engine failure. Its idling perfectly fine. I flat out dont get it

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Smaay

what is this check mode you speak of? With an ECUTEK I should be ready set go? thats all I did when I installed the SC.

The car was having a problem before I even started working on it. So either I have a sensor gone bad or engine failure. Its idling perfectly fine. I flat out dont get it

It doesn’t matter if someone is stock or on ECUTEK; if you disconnect the negative battery terminal then the ECU is reset and needs to learn again, so the experience will feel less responsive and sharp, but especially your first time driving the car, it will feel like there is a power problem when aggressively on the accelerator as if the traction control is partially activating or timing is being conserved. You should have noticed this to some extent during ECUTEK reflashes as well.

The question is what caused the misfire in the first place? Fuel, spark? Did you look at the plugs and notice aging or damage when you replaced them, especially on the cylinder that was misfiring? You had a CEL with the misfires, but now the car drives worse, yet you have no knew codes. Isn’t that odd?

Also, there are people on original plugs with double your miles and stock plugs with three to four times the stock power, so my feeling is that the plugs were fine and the new ones might not be the problem. Maybe this is a fueling issue. I don’t know. What is your fueling setup? I could be wrong. Just seems odd.

[Smaay]

i think i found my problem. I think I have a dead coil or injector.

[Smaay]

now i see different part numbers for 2013 FRS, and another part number for later years. are the coils interchangeable? what should i get? if its a coil?

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Smaay

now i see different part numbers for 2013 FRS, and another part number for later years. are the coils interchangeable? what should i get? if its a coil?

The direct injectors are numbered and a match to the cylinder or something. I don't think the coils are special. I found this:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...38&postcount=5

SU00304670 is the revised coil after December 2012. All coils are the same for all cylinders. The older coil code ended with 00417.

I'm guessing they are all interchangeable, but the newer part number replaces old numbers with a new part.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Smaay

i think i found my problem. I think I have a dead coil or injector.

You said you are running an Edelbrock SC, but are you on a CARB tune with stock injectors? What's your setup? Stock pulley (looks like it)?

[Try Again]

Its your ignition coil, its a common issue on the 13-14 models. I had the same issue, idle, and cruised fine until i wot around 5k rpms it would misfire. Id change all the spark plugs too with it. Swap the coil to another cylinder to see if the code switches to another cylinder.

[Smaay]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

You said you are running an Edelbrock SC, but are you on a CARB tune with stock injectors? What's your setup? Stock pulley (looks like it)?

yes, yes and yes

Originally Posted by Try Again

Its your ignition coil, its a common issue on the 13-14 models. I had the same issue, idle, and cruised fine until i wot around 5k rpms it would misfire. Id change all the spark plugs too with it. Swap the coil to another cylinder to see if the code switches to another cylinder.

will do tonight, ill move 1 to 3 and ill go ahead and re-install the HKS plugs. Im going to get a better tune really soon, the Edelbrock tune its not the best IMO

[Smaay]

It was the coil, all is fixed

[kev0]

Originally Posted by Smaay

It was the coil, all is fixed

Glad you fixed it. Thanks for updating the post.