Ticking/rattling after engine install, now won't turn over?

[Alfrz91]

Originally Posted by radroach

Could be throw out bearing or the shaft it rides on wasn't cleaned properly. Did they change your clutch bearing during the install?

It's an automatic.

Originally Posted by Tcoat

From your original description I thought it was just a heat shield since I had the exact same thing and that was all it is.
On a second listen of the first video it could be an exhaust leak vibrating a gasket.
Not sure what the others could be.

Yeah I originally thought it might have been an exhaust leak as well, but he checked around the exhaust for any leaks and couldn't find any. That and from what I can tell an exhaust leak would affect mpg and wouldn't cause the issue of it not turning over any longer, right? I was rockin a nice 35mpg with all the highway driving I'd been doing.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Alfrz91

It's an automatic.



Yeah I originally thought it might have been an exhaust leak as well, but he checked around the exhaust for any leaks and couldn't find any. That and from what I can tell an exhaust leak would affect mpg and wouldn't cause the issue of it not turning over any longer, right? I was rockin a nice 35mpg with all the highway driving I'd been doing.

Could have no impact on mileage. Check where the header bolts to the block.
You may have a couple of unrelated issues going on so it would not be your starter noise.

[Alfrz91]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Could have no impact on mileage. Check where the header bolts to the block.
You may have a couple of unrelated issues going on so it would not be your starter noise.

I really don't think these are all unrelated, the ticking/rattle was gone for like a day and a half, then I pulled a u turn, it came back with a vengeance, and then the car went kaput.
Just stopped by the shop and we tried turning it over, sounds like the starters just not engaging. I'm betting when it's cracked open something got damaged in there and thats what I heard break off.

[radroach]

Originally Posted by Alfrz91

It's an automatic.

Might be problem with the automatic transmission pump, there have been reported noise issues with those.

[Ultramaroon]

Sounds like a loose/damaged flex plate. Probably took out some other stuff after being driven that way for so long.


That first video with the sound under acceleration is a real tell. Something's getting tweaked out of line and colliding with the block or bell housing.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by radroach

Could be throw out bearing or the shaft it rides on wasn't cleaned properly. Did they change your clutch bearing during the install?

pay attention!




humfrz

[Alfrz91]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Sounds like a loose/damaged flex plate. Probably took out some other stuff after being driven that way for so long.

That first video with the sound under acceleration is a real tell. Something's getting tweaked out of line and colliding with the block or bell housing.

Flexplate broke, replaced that and the torque converter. Everything was great for about 3 days but unfortunately now the rattling/tick is bacl. Not as bad as before(yet?), made no sound at all for about 240-280~ or so miles(about the same as last time). Back in the shop now. Any idea's for what could cause it? Original diagnosis was the flexplate just had pre-existing damage that wasn't noticed.

video of the rattling from inside of the car after a cold start. The rattle is occuring anytime I move it out of park, but also happens on first start up.


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...73#post3208473

I wish I knew what actually happened in this situation, because it sounds like the same exact thing as mine.

Originally Posted by lynnmichelle

So here is what my service adviser said the problem was after the recall:

"Flywheels damaged due to set pins" - this is what caused the noise when I was accelerating and braking after the recall. They are ordering parts.

What does this mean? I did an initial google and it seems like flywheels are only on MT vehicles. I definitely have an auto. Want to get a basic understanding of what could have occurred and where if someone here is interested in schooling me.

Originally Posted by maslin

A flywheel attaches the clutch to the engine.

"Flywheels" may very well be something else entirely. Or could just be what they call the flex plate, lives in the same spot as a flywheel but on an automatic.

Clutches in automatic transmissions are not the equivalent of a clutch on a manual, that would be the torque converter. Unless you get in to fancier stuff with a wet start up clutch or DCT.

Flywheels and set pins... Maybe flex plate and the lock for breaking the crank bolt loose? No idea.

Also, repair orders are often worded strangely to point out a specific part in the parts catalog or labor guide. A specific part with a vague translation from some other language. The cubbies on the dash on a Mercedes are called pigeon holes. No one would reasonably call it that, but that's how it's called out. You never really know what they're talking about.

Unfortunately set pins doesn't mean much to me.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Alfrz91

Flexplate broke, replaced that and the torque converter. Everything was great for about 3 days but unfortunately now the rattling/tick is bacl. Not as bad as before(yet?), made no sound at all for about 240-280~ or so miles(about the same as last time). Back in the shop now. Any idea's for what could cause it? Original diagnosis was the flexplate just had pre-existing damage that wasn't noticed.

video of the rattling from inside of the car after a cold start. The rattle is occuring anytime I move it out of park, but also happens on first start up.

Something is tweaked. Gotta find a shop that knows how to use a dial indicator to look for runout. Don't drive it like that because you're just killing your engine and transmission with that misalignment.

[Alfrz91]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Something is tweaked. Gotta find a shop that knows how to use a dial indicator to look for runout. Don't drive it like that because you're just killing your engine and transmission with that misalignment.

Dropped it off at the shopas soon as the noise was happening again.
Flexplate cracked again, thinks I could have a bad transmission, or unbalanced crank. Also it was noticed that dowel pins were missing. From what I can tell from my limited google-ese, they're to align the tranny to the motor, I would imagine they would also limit the play going on.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Alfrz91

Dropped it off at the shopas soon as the noise was happening again.
Flexplate cracked again, thinks I could have a bad transmission, or unbalanced crank. Also it was noticed that dowel pins were missing. From what I can tell from my limited google-ese, they're to align the tranny to the motor, I would imagine they would also limit the play going on.

Missing guide pins are the root cause of your issue. Shame on the mechanics first for losing them, and then subsequently ignoring their absence. That's day-1 shit.

F

[Alfrz91]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Missing guide pins are the root cause of your issue. Shame on the mechanics first for losing them, and then subsequently ignoring their absence. That's day-1 shit.

F

To be faaiiirrrr it's a really reputable and popular shop, the two dowel pins are supposed to be in the engine from my understanding and not come out. For whatever reason it seems like a crapshoot of whether they come out during the removal and stay in the transmission I guess. He didn't lose them, the motor came without them in. These aren't the pins that would go on a flywheel, they're literally pressed into the engine block.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Alfrz91

To be faaiiirrrr it's a really reputable and popular shop, the two dowel pins are supposed to be in the engine from my understanding and not come out. For whatever reason it seems like a crapshoot of whether they come out during the removal and stay in the transmission I guess. He didn't lose them, the motor came without them in. These aren't the pins that would go on a flywheel, they're literally pressed into the engine block.

You're being nice. Any mech with a lick of experience knows that there are always two guide pins. That's either a rookie mistake, or no fucks given.


They fall out all the time. It's a thing.

[RZNT4R]

Yeah it's a toss up wether they stick to the engine or trans when you separate both. Whenever I replace an engine or trans for a used unit, there can be two, one or none at all, and yeah it's pretty important to have them in.

I'm surprised a mechanic would forget them since they make mating the engine to the trans way easier by lining everything up. You align those and the two big puzzle pieces just snap together and every bolt hole lines up perfect. Would be a pain without those.

Btw, I'm not sure if I'd be confident in that engine anymore, if the transmission was misaligned enough to break the flex plate, it probably put a lot of stress on the rear most crank bearing especially during startup with no lubrication. I wouldn't be surprised if the rear main was scored from having the crank wedged off axis.