Will the EIBACH SPORTLINE lowering spring be ok with my stock sachs?

[wolffbite]

Originally Posted by Shizuka

Add a front lip, problem solved

Well that actually reduces your ground clearance even more at the front since you are adding material under the bumper, but it is definitely better to be scraping on a plastic lip than on your paint.

[Shizuka]

Originally Posted by wolffbite

Well that actually reduces your ground clearance even more at the front since you are adding material under the bumper, but it is definitely better to be scraping on a plastic lip than on your paint.

lol thanks for clearing that up for everyone

[Will BRZ]

What do y'all think about these "starter kits":

http://www.subispeed.com/rce-starter...s#.XVAtH3dFzIU

Seems like a pretty solid package. Not looking to be slammed or turn it into a racecar, just want to get rid of the wheels gap while keeping the ride quality comfortable. I was looking at 18s and I think a good tire size, a decent lip kit, and this kit would help me accomplish my goal. Roads here kinda suck so what other modifications can I do to lower about an inch and keep it comfortable? Didn't want to start a whole thread on this. Thanks

[Vital]

Originally Posted by Will BRZ

What do y'all think about these "starter kits":

http://www.subispeed.com/rce-starter...s#.XVAtH3dFzIU

Seems like a pretty solid package. Not looking to be slammed or turn it into a racecar, just want to get rid of the wheels gap while keeping the ride quality comfortable. I was looking at 18s and I think a good tire size, a decent lip kit, and this kit would help me accomplish my goal. Roads here kinda suck so what other modifications can I do to lower about an inch and keep it comfortable? Didn't want to start a whole thread on this. Thanks

The kit is good, but avoid using rear camber bushing. I hear they are a pain to install and hard to adjust. Just piece everything separately it'll be similar price or close to it. All you need is springs, camber bolts, and rear control arms and you are set. Just make sure you have a good alignment shop in mind that can get you the numbers you're looking for.

[churchx]

Well, not so much as lot of pain or very hard, but relatively harder/more time then with LCAs. And if suspension shop one brings car to for alignment charges by time spent on alignment, all savings on those rear camber bushings being a bit cheaper goes down the drain. AFAIK adjustment range is more limited too. If expensive billet aftermarket LCAs might be out of budget, cheapest LCAs as stock like stamped steel SPC/Whiteline/Eibach/Moog ones are imho reasonably cheap to get/install them from beginning and have all subsequent future alignments eased.

[Will BRZ]

Originally Posted by Vital

The kit is good, but avoid using rear camber bushing. I hear they are a pain to install and hard to adjust. Just piece everything separately it'll be similar price or close to it. All you need is springs, camber bolts, and rear control arms and you are set. Just make sure you have a good alignment shop in mind that can get you the numbers you're looking for.

Thanks I’ll keep all that in mind. My only concern has been that stock suspension is coming up on 46,000 miles. I think it’ll be fine with a 1 inch drop though. I plan to trade in for a 17+ PP BRZ in a few years and I’d do coilovers on that and just leave the springs behind. Everything that I do to this car (wheels, exhaust etc.) can move over or be sold so this kit and control arms are enough for now.

[Vital]

Originally Posted by Will BRZ

Thanks I’ll keep all that in mind. My only concern has been that stock suspension is coming up on 46,000 miles. I think it’ll be fine with a 1 inch drop though. I plan to trade in for a 17+ PP BRZ in a few years and I’d do coilovers on that and just leave the springs behind. Everything that I do to this car (wheels, exhaust etc.) can move over or be sold so this kit and control arms are enough for now.

Yep that sounds like a good plan. I think the struts should hold up fine with 1" drop. Dropping the car 1" is great closes the wheel gap just enough and to me it rides better with my RCE Yellows and you get some performance as well. Mine is primarily a DD so i didn't really see a need to get coils. Also, if you decide you like your spring set up you could still move all that over to your new model. Just be careful with the rear control arms because the 2017+ models have a headlight leveler bracket that will need to be re-installed on the new control arms. So just make sure you get some arms that have a slot for that bracket or you can just get new arms when you get new coilovers.

[Racecomp Engineering]

We'll be putting up package similar to the one linked above with the SPC lower control arms instead of the Whiteline rear camber bushing.

It's a lot easier for everyone.

- Andrew

[Will BRZ]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

We'll be putting up package similar to the one linked above with the SPC lower control arms instead of the Whiteline rear camber bushing.

It's a lot easier for everyone.

- Andrew

Wow perfect! You know when that would be available to purchase?

[churchx]

@Racecomp Engineering: What do you think if choosing some other clone from those for set? AFAIK there might be issue of bushing in SPC being not exactly generic rubber one, but some "xAxis[TM] Sealed Flex Joint" something that in reality is pillowball that looks like OE bushing from outside .. wasn't it so, that it was not fitting in some autox class due that? SPC LCA kit also included offset toe bushing vs other kits, but IIRC there is not much need to change stock toe adjustment range.