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#211 |
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If you like travel & bite point as is - no. Spring just makes a bit easier to press clutch pedal. Removal of it - just harder to press clutch (but thus also easier to "feel" bite point).
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#212 | |
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Quote:
It should not be. Permanent contact would ensure premature failure. As illustrated in the video (and experienced by myself) the spring removal introduces ~1mm of play in the pedal. That play is important because it means there's no force acting against the TOB. Clutches that use a clutch cable have to have their play manually adjusted into them while hydraulic clutches are self adjusting on their play. This is a pretty stout little spring and it's acting against the pedal (trying to push it in) and without any definitive evidence I surmise that it may be enough to be equivalent to someone resting their foot on the pedal and keeping the TOB in contact. There is NO WAY that removing the spring will have a negative impact on the life of the TOB - in fact it's the other way around. Considering how many people have premature TOB failures it's more likely that leaving it in is a possible culprit of those premature failures. Even if it's not - removing the spring is not a risk to your TOB whatsoever.
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#213 |
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Rust bucket enthusiast
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For what it;s worth to those of you who are considering this, I removed this spring about 40,000 miles ago. I did no clutch pedal adjustment. TOB with 60,000 miles on it is still dead silent and everything is wonderful.
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#214 |
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nenber
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Any cons by doing that?
As far as i get it -i just remove the spring and thats it? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk |
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#215 | ||
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Senior Member
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Quote:
No proven cons other than heavier clutch. Apparently this will bother you only if you are a weakling or a child. I am obviously one of these, as I found it a bit heavy for daily use, so got the MTEC spring. Try it without and see. Without a spring there will be bit of loose travel pedal right at the top - if you don't like this (I didn't) just adjust the brake light switch just enough to stop it.Quote:
That's good info. |
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#216 |
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Just spent the last couple of hours trying to get the pin out, with no success. On my RHD the spring assembly is buried up in a channel, with a metal plate either side. I was able to pop the e-clip off reasonably easily, but the plate prevents the pin from coming out. I suspect I’d have to pull the whole pedal assembly out to get it apart.
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#217 |
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Yeah, heard that it's harder mod to do on RHD. Then again, RHD cars may have better accel pedal stock placement for heal & toe, if i recall correctly.
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#218 |
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I’ve given up - I’ll order the 19mm slave and try that instead. I’m much too old for this lying on my back with my head under the dash stuff.
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#219 |
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nenber
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#220 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117628
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Disclaimer: This post represents the official views of the voices in my head at the time of posting.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133311 I'm only here for the biscuits |
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#221 |
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Member
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For those that have done this: any issues regarding the play at the top of the pedal? I'm on the fence as I also had some concerns about it affecting the TOB.
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#222 |
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Shitpost Generator v8.6
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Honestly, I don't even notice the play at the top. I was concerned about that as well when I first did this, but after removing the spring I've found it to be basically a non-issue. I really don't think just the weight of the pedal itself is enough to actually affect the TOB in any meaningful way.
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#223 |
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This has been done for years, probably by the hundreds. Let's not be neurotic about a 10 minute removal/install DIY.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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#224 |
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In the stock arrangement, I haven't allowed anyone to drive my car, not even my own mother. After removing the spring, I would! The clutch pedal now gives the feedback I was accustomed to in the past. Makes me think that, in stock form, learning to drive a manual on this car would be harder than necessary.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Xerophthalmic For This Useful Post: | jcw99 (03-21-2019) |
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