Installing Pioneer HU and Maestro RR

[SkyeHack]

Originally Posted by COBlue

I'm probably too late for you but just ran across this researching HU for my '17 BRZ. Pioneer discontinued the backup camera guidelines after 2017 models so the 2400/2440 won't have those guidelines, whereas the 2300/2330 will. I use those all the time so will be going with the 2330. (And I can pester NCtoBRZ for help )

Im sure they can add them in a future firmware update. I have a rear camera ran to my front bumper and the image is inverted. I am waiting for a firmware update that lets me flip the image so its correct.

[COBlue]

Originally Posted by SkyeHack

Im sure they can add them in a future firmware update. I have a rear camera ran to my front bumper and the image is inverted. I am waiting for a firmware update that lets me flip the image so its correct.

I was just told by a retailer that there is now a Federal law prohibiting 3rd party manuf from adding guidelines because people are stupid and were not adjusting them and were running into things and complained. Pioneer just confirmed due to NHTSA requirements.

[NCtoBRZ]

Originally Posted by COBlue

I'm probably too late for you but just ran across this researching HU for my '17 BRZ. Pioneer discontinued the backup camera guidelines after 2017 models so the 2400/2440 won't have those guidelines, whereas the 2300/2330 will. I use those all the time so will be going with the 2330. (And I can pester NCtoBRZ for help )

IIRC, the backup guidelines are built in to the factory camera, so I actually turned off the backup guidelines in the Pioneer HU settings and used the factory lines since I know they are accurate.

[COBlue]

Everyone in this thread - especially NCtoBRZ has been a huge help, but I still can't get past the dreaded black screen for the backup camera. Everything else works! Maybe somebody can find what I'm missing? 2017 BRZ PP with Pioneer AVH-2440NEX through Maestro RR with Drok 12v-6v and TO1 harness modified as below. 6.01v to camera verified.



Antenna adapter (blue) wire to 10pin harness pin 8 ANT + (blue wire)

28 PIN HARNESS PINS
2 (Reverse) - HU Reverse Gear Signal Input (purple/white) AND Drok Converter 12V (red)
9 (Amp Signal 12v) - HU Remote System Control (blue/white)
11 (Camera power 6v) - DROK 6v (yellow)
12 (Camera +) - RCA camera + (yellow)
13 (Camera -) - RCA camera - (brown)
15 (Parking) - HU Parking brake (light green) if no bypass used
17 (Vehicle Speed VSS) - HU VSS wire (if used)
20 (Camera Pwr GND) - DROK 6v ground (black)
21 (SW1) - RR yellow/red (iDatalink doc shows purple/red)
22 (SW2) - RR pink/red
23 (SW grnd) - RR black AND Drok 12 ground (black)


Also note that Crutchfield and others use the AX-TOYUSB adapter cable for the OEM USB plug which does not fit the 2017, the AX-SUBUSB is apparently the proper cable (which I can verify when it gets here).

[NCtoBRZ]

Originally Posted by COBlue

Everyone in this thread - especially NCtoBRZ has been a huge help, but I still can't get past the dreaded black screen for the backup camera. Everything else works! Maybe somebody can find what I'm missing? 2017 BRZ PP with Pioneer AVH-2440NEX through Maestro RR with Drok 12v-6v and TO1 harness modified as below. 6.01v to camera verified.



Antenna adapter (blue) wire to 10pin harness pin 8 ANT + (blue wire)

28 PIN HARNESS PINS
2 (Reverse) - HU Reverse Gear Signal Input (purple/white) AND Drok Converter 12V (red)
9 (Amp Signal 12v) - HU Remote System Control (blue/white)
11 (Camera power 6v) - DROK 6v (yellow)
12 (Camera +) - RCA camera + (yellow)
13 (Camera -) - RCA camera - (brown)
15 (Parking) - HU Parking brake (light green) if no bypass used
17 (Vehicle Speed VSS) - HU VSS wire (if used)
20 (Camera Pwr GND) - DROK 6v ground (black)
21 (SW1) - RR yellow/red (iDatalink doc shows purple/red)
22 (SW2) - RR pink/red
23 (SW grnd) - RR black AND Drok 12 ground (black)

Since you have verified that the camera is getting a solid 6 volts and that all software settings on the HU are correct, it seems like it must be an issue with the RCA cable (bad cable, poor ground, etc.) Do you have another RCA cable lying around that you can sacrifice? Make sure that the cable is plugged into the brown video connection on the HU, not one of the yellow ones. You can test the connection on the HU (in the unlikely event that the port itself is bad) by plugging in any RCA video device like an old camcorder and switching power to the reverse wire.

[COBlue]

I had already sacrificed an RCA when I was considering going without the TO1 so tried that - and it worked!!! Two days of head banging for a bad wire. Thank you!!

[NCtoBRZ]

Originally Posted by COBlue

I had already sacrificed an RCA when I was considering going without the TO1 so tried that - and it worked!!! Two days of head banging for a bad wire. Thank you!!

The Maestro RR is both a blessing and a curse. As we both discovered, the wiring on the 28 pin harness isn't even remotely correct. Low voltage from the RR kept my camera from working and a bad RCA cable kept yours from working. I appreciate the functionality of the RR but they need to improve quality control and update their harnesses to match the application as they say it will. Oh well... in the end we have working head units that are way better than the stock head unit in every way possible!

[COBlue]

Originally Posted by NCtoBRZ

The Maestro RR is both a blessing and a curse. As we both discovered, the wiring on the 28 pin harness isn't even remotely correct. Low voltage from the RR kept my camera from working and a bad RCA cable kept yours from working. I appreciate the functionality of the RR but they need to improve quality control and update their harnesses to match the application as they say it will. Oh well... in the end we have working head units that are way better than the stock head unit in every way possible!

Honestly as much as I dorked around with the thing it's probably more likely the OEM cable came fine and I broke it.

[COBlue]

Just saw this post http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/view...?f=318&t=18422 about the RR possibly draining the battery. Has anyone else noticed this?

[MarvinC93]

Originally Posted by COBlue

Just saw this post http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/view...?f=318&t=18422 about the RR possibly draining the battery. Has anyone else noticed this?

I had a similar experience after installing my 2440NEX into my 2016 BRZ but I think it was probably related to an error I made rather than the NEX itself. A few days after I finished the install and testing it while driving with no issues, I decided to run the Auto EQ thing in my garage to see if that made any difference in the audio experience. To do this, the instructions say that the car must be on in the accessory mode (engine not on) and that the EQ would take around 10 minutes to complete. After it was done, I tried to start the car and the engine wouldn’t turn over due to the battery. I don’t remember how much the battery had drained but after I jump started it there were no further issues. Luckily, this was around the time I take it to the dealer for maintenance so during my visit I mentioned it to them and after they checked it out they said that sure enough the battery was depleted lower than acceptable and they replaced it for free. Ever since then I have not had any issues with the battery even after several days (and even one instance of over a week) of not turning the car on. Of course the only other variable I have tried to replicate was running the Auto EQ thing again but I really have found no reason to since I am happy with the current audio quality and experience.


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[COBlue]

Originally Posted by COBlue

Just saw this post http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/view...?f=318&t=18422 about the RR possibly draining the battery. Has anyone else noticed this?

Response from iDatalink, note they are moving away from the TO2 harness:

"We are aware of the issue, which pretty much only occurs in BRZ/FRS/Toyota 86. If you de-pin pin 9 of the green 10-pin plug (the blue wire), it should fix the issue. Now that the SU2 harness and firmwares are released, we are planning on switching these cars to that platform, which should fix the issue entirely."

[COBlue]

I ended up moving to the SU2 harness and it's a much simpler installation, but not perfect. See this thread for more info.

[Chuckable]

Bumping this thread. I’m interested in idatalink features but this sounds like it’s far from a plug and play install that Crutchfield would have you believe.


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[COBlue]

With the SU2 harness and updated firmware it's MUCH easier than the TO1 and numerous mods. Only mod I had to make with SU2 was for the power antenna but I believe that was subsequently resolved.